Projects My Apache...

Hi Green.Looking good.On the indicator lights.If what you have coming are not satisfactory,try Radio Shack(R).They have one heck of an assortment of those small lights,right down to what is called "grain of wheat"style.The smaller type are LED`s.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

LED's would actually be cool because of how small they are and the fact that they will still glow significantly when lit.

 

I just got my high beam indicator. Its the blue one with the chrome bezel a few pages back. Its small, and i wanted something with a bezel to kinda match the gauges a little. I like it

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Finally finished the lower tabs on the seat mount. Its in for good. I looked at various hardware stores for access panels to use as my master cylinder. Im just gonna fab something tomorrow for it...

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Pic of seat....... Got a nice layed back feel to it. Little lower than stock as well. The driving position is super comfortable

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Does the seat seem to give you more legroom like this than it did stock? Or did you ever sit in it in the stock position? I'm tall with long legs, so I'm always looking for more room...

 

I'm wondering the same thing? At 6'5" the stock seat and standard trans. Makes a fairly uncomfortable ride. I don't mind the gas tank in cab but would relocate. I was thinking of lowering the seat to a point that would allow me to push it back in the recess where the tank was. Height isn't an issue since it seems I am looking out through the top 1/3 of the windshield anyway.



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Seat looks good, what's it out of?

 

last time I looked at pictures he sent me it looks like it is from a 60-66 c10 just based off of the seat spring design (same as my '64 seat that is stock in my new truck)

 

I worked at an upholstery shop for a while and did a lot of hot rod seats.

The best way to get more leg room is to remove material from the back cushion/springs from your stock seat. The easiest way to do it is to remove the springs completely (really easy to do, I had it pretty much bare in 20 minutes) and you just need to get some high density foam to replace the cushion/spring set. Then you can reuse the original cover and no one would be the wiser. For height you want to remove cushion/springs from the bottom cushion of the seat, which would also give you more leg room or at least the ability to bend them a little more instead of hitting your knee on the steering wheel.

 

Could you make the high density foam thinner than the original springs? I'm guessing though, if you did do that, that the bead that usually sits against the back of the seat frame would then wrap around the back of the seat and the original cover wouldn't look so good.

I wonder if a cover from a 60 to 66 seat would fit on the stock 55-59 seat once you made the back thinner?

 

As far as leg room goes, lowering it didnt do much. Also im 5'9 on a good day and have stumpy legs so i cant offer much help for yall lol

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You and me both lol

 

Yes, you can make it thinner, that is what I am talking about.

If you have a bead it will still be in the same place as it originally was just moved back linearly so the seat is thinner. It should not effect the look of the seat cover if done correctly (hard to mess up). Yes, the material that was on the side of the seat would now be moved back towards the edge or wrapped around the back. Really though, not many people look at the back of the seat in a truck like ours.. hence why it isn't covered and you can see the burlap. You will be fine, if you need some more tips or how to do it just PM me sometime and ill shoot you my number. I have really bad carpal tunnel and its way easier to talk for me.

 

You could I guess use that seat cover, would seem to be a waste of time though unless you like the pattern. The back of the seat shouldn't be that much different from the stock one you have in your truck.

and sorry for taking your thread Green, just thought I would input what little knowledge I had so you guys didn't have to search hell and back to find the answer

 

Lol im irish as hell too, the leprechaun jokes are frequent from my asshole buddies hahaa

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So today i made the master access panel. Built a frame outta angle iron and trimmed it for proper height. Made the door, countersank the holes, used cheap stick on weather stripping which worked great and welded her up flush. Works killer. Also welded the nuts on the underside so roadside maintenance can be done single handedly

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Also, i was told to leave the welds "built up" on the toeboard patches for strength? I figure since the welds penetrated good id be ok to grind totally smooth? Either way itll be covered, it just bothers me every time i look at it lol

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Looks good. You can dress the welds. Don't remove any base metal.

 

You can dress them or leave them, up to you. If you plan on dropping some carpet down then don't worry about dressing them. Technically they will be stronger with the built up weld on them... after you put jute padding down and carpet you won't know they are there. I would say just leave them. Did you butt weld them or did you put a flange on the base metal and drop it in and weld it?

 

I butt welded em, and i have dynamat i found, jute and carpet goin down so it doesnt matter

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That access door looks great!

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I really like the access door, good job. I've still yet to deal with the hole above my master cylinder...with a junk box welder I'm not looking forward to the project.

 

Thanks guys, and Keep an eye out on craigslist for a miller buzz. There worth the coin

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I found a Millermatic 170 or 180 (brain fade - I cannot remember) a couple weeks ago for $600...emailed the guy and asked if he'd take $450 - no response.

I'll buy one...sooner or later. I guess right now I'm holding out for the Lottery, or the unknown dead uncle or the garage sale find where they have no idea what they're selling.

 

My buddy nick seems to have a nack for finding shit cheappp. He has a lincoln 350 mig that hes in love with. Payed 800 bucks for a year old 4,300 dollar welder. Needed a 15 dollar part to get it running perfect. He found a 10 foot brake for 65 bucks, super nicetubing bender for 50. If he finds a killer deal ill let you know and maybe figure out shipping it ? Just an idea

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I'd be interested for sure... Here in California it seems that every seller believes their crap is gold plated.

 

Lol ill keep an eye out for ya and let my buddy know

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Signals and high beam indicators in. There small but have a nice little bezel to them as well. Should look cool with the engine turning. Speaking of engine turning, i tried the wood dowel and valve lapping compound. PITA. I need to figure out something asap...

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Find a small electric motor...like the ones people use to wrap fishing poles or for turning a rotisserie / spit over a fire. Could probably find 50 of them at an old electric motor repair shop - should turn slow enough...