So I bought a 1955 Ford 350 flatbed and am super stoked to get my hands dirty. I've got a lot of information from different posts out there- thanks to all you HAMB-ers who actually know what you're doing. I want a lowered effie, but don't want to drag the bumpers. I'm still deciding on what to do with the engine. I big part of me screams to stay stock with what I believe is a 272 yblock (The guy I bought it from says it's a 292 but the engine numbers match the 272). I've got a friend in ID who builds engines, and he'd add a little pepper to the engine with a rebuild and a few touches to make her sing. As for now, I'm slowly dismantling the truck. I'm trying to be super careful to catalog everything, with pictures and good notes. I've already removed the flatbed, I found a long-bed trailer for cheap, and am going to cut that down a little to the short-bed dimensions (I don't know if I'm going to meet all the specs, 'cause it might get a little problematic cutting it down in height, and width). But length wise it's coming down a foot and a half. Right now, I've got the hood, bed, and rear axle out. I just cut out the brackets for the springs, and am going to put a four link in her and an IFS (I still debate about that vs. the drop axle) Probably drop her 4-5 inches. And then slowly reassemble. I'll add some pics along the way, so you can follow along, answer questions, and possibly scratch you're head and wonder why an FNG is screwing up this badly... he he he! We all gotta learn sometime.
Almost hate to see a cool F350 turn into a half ton short box, but that is what it looks like you are doing. Regardless, I love me a 53-56 Ford truck. My very first vehicle was an original Purdue University 1955 F-100 when I was 14 years old (found the old school lettering on the doors when I sanded it down to original paint). And yes, I wish I still had it today, more than 30 years later... Good luck with your project and post updates!
Great project. If you need to look at one I'm in Lehi. Even give ya a hand if I'm available. Join the F100 group too if ya feel like it: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=8 Good luck!
Does anyone know how to make a tool that will pull the clips out of the window regulator and the door handle? I need to remove that hardware, and it's giving me grief. There is a diagram of one in the shop manual. But if someone had specs for one I'd love it. Other wise I'll just wing it. Thanks
Thanks of the reply carb and chrome. I'm in Heber and I might take you up on that. I also think I did join the F100 group but I'm not sure. I probably should've started this thread in there. But oh well.
You can purchase the tool from Mid Fifties, but I used a little pick to pry the clips out but watch your fingers.
Last time I checked all the vendors said their suppliers didn't make the tool anymore. I usually just use a pick with a hook end. I do have a clip tool, but I'm not very good at using it I guess because the pick always seems easier to me.
A shorty 1 Ton would be cool, but I think it would kick me in the kidney's every time I run over a cigarette butt. The plan is to go 1/2 ton daily driver. That is if gas prices stay reasonable...
So, after a long wait of tying up loose ends, I'm back. I was able to remove the little retaining clips on the door hands and window regulators. The first two I wanted to destroy. They took me about 20 minutes to get off, and a few choice words. The third one I bent one of the horns down on the pin. But, by that point I'd really figured out how they all came together and removed the last one in a matter of minutes. Sweet. I just used two straight blade screw drivers, on to pry the handle back a little, and the second (thinner-smaller straight blade) to coax the pins out!
So I spent new years like any true man should. Working on his truck. Here are the pics from the tear down. I'm trying to be meticulous about taking pictures of every little nut and bolt that comes off. Some of them like to break off, and some of them need to be cut off. But it's all fun and games until someones eye get poked out. Enjoy the pics. (I'm going to try them as attachments this time around... Sophisticated. I know.)
I found an F100 in Rod and Kulture a couple months back and LOVED it. It referred to a few things that I knew, and a few that I didn't. The one I didn't know was to "nose the hood"? Don't know what that means. I'm considering shaving the doors, but I don't know about shaving the other emblems. I've considered modifying the grille to a 51 style with like 5 or 6 teeth, and tweaking the bumper to match. Something swanky, like maybe something from a caddy. There are a lot of Cadillac bumpers that I like. I'm thinking about building a bumper for the rear that comes flush with the body. And possibly trimming up the truck bed so that that rear fenders are almost flush- maybe a couple of inches off the post. All snug like. But that's about it for now. Like that's not enough.
Here are some more pics of the doors and windows being removed. And some fun stuff from under the dash.
And I think this will do for the last photo barrage of the night. The rear frame is now clean. I left the crossmembers in until I get the bed back from the sandblaster, and have it rebuilt to specs. I want the rear axle to sit perfectly in the wells. And I'm still toying with what to do about the motor.....
Cool project, reminds me of where I was with my 55 about a year ago. if you are going to lower the truck, I would recommend against going with a CPP aftermarket drop axle. By the time I purchased it and got it aligned (big pain in the a$$) It cost me more than it would to have sent my original axle to be stretched, trued and drilled. Here's a pic of mine as it is now...planning on finishing the body and painting over the winter.
UC4ME I really dig the flipped grille. ALOT! Nice work with the bumpers as well! Did you get that much drop with just a 3 inch drop axle? That's crazy. I'm still trying to figure out the right ride height for my truck, and have tons of ?????
grovedawg, thanks, I am really happy with the way the front mods worked out .... although I do get quite a few comments on how I messed up installing the grille the advertised drop for the front axle is 4 inches, it went down about 3.5. the rear drop was more significant, I replaced the original Dana 44 with a 9 inch ford from a 73 mustang. Removed the helper leaves and mounted the axle on top of the springs. It dropped the rear about 6 inches.
Have you considered getting a half ton frame? the cabs are the same, the front fenders you have have a larger wheel opening than the half ton ones. Everything on the frame is BIGGER than a half ton, axles, springs, etc, etc
I wasn't sure if the wheel well openings were the same or not. I haven't actually measured them and compared them to a 1/2 tons wheel openings. The fenders are in relatively good shape (I say that pre-sandblasting so I really don't know for sure). I could salvage a pair possibly as well. Does anyone know the difference in size of the wheel openings between the 1/2 and 1 ton trucks?
Sorry I didn't answer you about the axle, springs, etc. I'm still really not sure if I'm going to put in an IFS, or leave the straight axle. My ol' man thinks I'd be crazy to leave the straight axle on her, but I love the nostalgia (maybe not the ride as much, but they are definitely cooler). So, in a long round about way, I'm undecided about what to do with the axle, springs, running gear. The chasis is basically still to be determined. I'm sure a lot of hambers out there have their own opinion about how I should do it. But the fun is in making it your own.
I looked into the different suspension setups and asked some questions (probably should have asked more and avoided the CPP axle woes) and came to the conclusion that most everyone who bitches about the stock configuration (solid front axle) got their point of view after driving their trucks before rebuilding anything (crappy springs, bad tie rods, loose steering box, worn kingpin bushings, etc...). My truck was/is a low mileage piece (21K when I bought it) so the steering box is nice and tight and I replaced the bushings and tie rods and it came with new springs and shocks. It drives great, but it drives like a truck...it doesn't drive like a new mustang (or even an old mustang for that matter) I guess you'd have to look at how you intend to use it when all is said and done and the cost of your options. The ford truck enthusiast forum has some decent information on the different options/setups out there( there are 9 or so parts to the write up, here is a link to part one) http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...ives_for_1948__1960_Ford_Trucks_Part_One.html
Here the are pics from this weekend. I got the rest of the crap out of the cab. Thanks for the help with the steering column. Turns out it is all one unit. The knobs and crap from inside posed a little challenge. Moslty if your patient you can get them out ok. The only one that REALLY pissed me off was the light switch. I could get the plate off, but couldn't for the life of me figure out how to get the knob off so that the module could come out from behind the dash. I ended up cutting the thing out. The rest was really straight forward and good clean fun.
And it's really nice to have a Kubota and a 20' ceiling. He he he (evil laughter)!!!! But here's the chasis right now. Still haven't decided on the engine yet. Stay Y or go FE?
Keep that Y-block! If it's really a 272, just punch it out to standard 292 bore. Get some '56 or later car heads for bigger valves and higher compression, and it'll be pretty sweet. I run a 292 in my '60 F100, which is a daily driver.
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