Thanks fellas! I am getting ready for the wiring, which i am excited for. I build custom electrical displays/working models at work, so im ready to dive in. Looking at Blue sea systems fuse blocks, but i have not seen any in person yet. The small bussmann fuse blocks seem a little light weight for me, pluse i am not a fan of quick connects. Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I did the wiring on mine and all I can say is I should have gone with either Painless Wiring or Speedways 12 circuit kit. It's a mess under my dash right now. I hope you post a video after you get it running. Curious what its going to sound like with straight pipes.
I made a video already, just haven't got it to youtube yet. It sounds alot better than i thought it would, and I'll tell you the phone doesn't do it justice. The only question yet is hiw it will sound while driving. I plan on showing my wiring system on here when im done.
What’s your plan with the bumper? Mine is factory and the tips protrude a few inches past as I was having a drone issue with my exhaust. Yours look to be sitting the same as mine, slip some chrome tips over the pipe and your good! You are doing a fine job on the build! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks for the comments. My plan is to get it built to the driveable stage without sacrificing anything that i would want to do over later. After it gets drivable i will probably slow down some, and eventually some body work, and back into the flathead for a little more heat. As far as the bumper issue, my deluxe bumper is bent, and will not be going back on. I like your super deluxe bumper better. Also thought id look around some to see what else would fit good. Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Here's a couple videos. Its my youngest boys debut. From underneath, the flanges at the manifolds didn't look to bad, but from the top, i don't like them. They are 5/16 thick, with the 1 3/4 id, so i dont expect to have any issues though. I used header wrap for the first 30 inches back, and tied it off with a home made clap-tite tool and annealed stainless wire. Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Been busy doing some wiring. Searched for some compact high amperage fuses, and ended up with the ami/MIDI Series. The fuse holders commercially avaiable were also a little bulky, to try and hide/ use inline for my alternator feed and battery feed. I found some fiberglass board and made these holders for the fuses, then heat shrinked them. Low cost also. Fuses are under $2 from digi-key. Fuse is made by Littlefuse. Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
For my fuse block, i ended up using a 2000 windstar block, after a junkyard crawl. Considered a blue sea block, but would have to have 2 blocks, and an additional relay center and high amp fuses. This block combines 24 fuses and 6 relays. Has alot of good features for a universal style block. Has a few negatives also, but over I'm happy. If anyone wants to know, i mapped out all connections and can give you the pros and cons, but right now i have a spiral bound notebook full! I am not done yet, but i have it mounted and it fits well. Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Nice work on your electrical panel. You must be planing a highly loaded system with all of those fuses and relays.
Not entirely. My goal was to use the original on/off switch to do all my work, so ran all the switched loads through 2 of the relays so i can still use the switch, and i am running a 2 stage electric cooling fan via relay. Also have the bw overdrive through one, and horn relay. Still have lots of space left, and yes probably will not use most of them. I am not running any ac or even a radio. I plan on some indication lights for my overdrive, and a self canceling turn signal setup i want to build. Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Really good work and informative thread by the both of you. I enjoyed reading it from the beginning to present. Hyvolt, where in the car did you mount the fuse/relay panel? Dale
I was able to mount the fuse box/panel close to the original location of the old circuit breakers. I get a pic tonight, going to land a few wires anyway. I know in the pics it looks enormous, but the blue fiberglass back panel is 10 x 12. I could have shrunk it down to about 9x9, but this setup puts everything in one location. Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Board mounted in car. Before all is done, i plan on making some type of cover. Nothing is realy visable at normal entry height(first pic). You have to get below the lower edge of the dash to see anything. The black gromet on the left is the factory harness passthrough. there. Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The 3 acorn nuts are the studs from the fuse panel. The lower one and right one are 2 of the holes originaly used to mount the regulator Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I believe you mentioned above that you build custom electrical displays and working models for a living. Your skills and talents are readily on display in these photos. Probably the best thing to ever come out of a 2000 Windstar. I, for one, am impressed with your build. Keep up the good work and you're going to have a fine old driver in the near future. Keep us posted. Dale
I must have some how, become unsubcribed from our posts here! I missed these last few posts of your wiring project. Nice Job! You have quite a talent for wiring. I had to revert to an aftermarket wire harness and even then, I was scratching my head numerous times trying to figure it all out!..lol..
Here are a couple of firsts for my 41 sedan build. First time firing up the SBC and first time moving under its own power. Not much to watch, but ya dont go driving around the block with all that wiring and crap hanging out all over the place!...lol... All that spaghetti of wire will of course be cut to fit once all the bugs are worked out....I have not yet hooked up the digital gauges but all in good time.
Good to see you back T42. Looks like the small block turned out nice. Like you i had to get the car moving under its own power,just if its a few feet! Thanks to all on the wiring comments. Still got a ways to go. I usually pull all the wire,get everything operational, then return to loom it nice and re-terminate at the block. Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Nice work ! Can i just get some help im working on a project myself but i got stuck on some measures that i cant seem to find. The wheelbase should be 114 inches and i line up the back axel and my front "axel" according to measures i found online i get a wheelbase longer then 114. So i would really like if one of you could supply me with measures . //Jimmie
Well I dont know how completely accurate this is.....but I just used a tape measure and went from the center of my front tire to the center of my rear tire and I get approx. 115". But I have changed both my front and rear suspension adding a 4 bar system to the front and dual leaf springs in the rear, so it may have changed slightly....Hope this helps ya!
Thank you for the reply. Good to know that wheelbase isnt a major worry only thing im afraid of is that the front ”axel” is moved 1 or 2 inces to far towards the front or the rear. I will use a k-link rear and a i think you call it ”frame clip” it is a s10 front end im going to attach.. To clarify i bougt the car from a guy who ripped off the front and rear axels the engine and trans for his 32 ford. So i have no reference points.
Jimmie, Id find out how wide that s10 front suspension is when its loaded. I had trouble getting wheels to fit my car and not hit the fenders when turning. I even bought a narrowed axle. I've been dealing with the wheel issue for a few months. Now i am back on track after finding some Studebaker wheels for the front. Our 41s have a lot narrower front than the later fords. Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
According to an article on sub framing in an old Rodders Digest 67-69 Camaro and 68-74 Nova width is 60" for drum brakes and 61 1/2" with discs 79-83 Malibu and Cutlass 58 3/4" S-10 52 3/4" Measurements from wheel mounting to wheel mounting. My 41 is subbed with a 74 Nova w/discs and the A-arms are narrowed an 1 1/2" per side. I run a 15" X 6" rim and 195/65 15 tire on the front
Oh.. thank you for the info truth be told i didnt think about that. But i found articles online of people using the whole frame from s10 and just weld in new mount points. Btw sorry for the bad english.
New tires with some steels today. Had some rubbing issues before. Found some shallow 15x4.5 Studebaker front wheels and generic 15x6 ford steels for the rear. Ended up with 185-65 in front with 215-70 in the rear. Cheap Douglas brand tires, but way better than chinese made stuff. Thinking maybe some spider bullets for the centers, or maybe some full caps. Im liking the sinister look right now. And since the tires are new, i had to see if the flattie could spin them! No disappointment there! Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
In other news.... Having front windshields cut locally this week, and I have ordered my seat rebuild kits from Labaron Bonney. Went with a dark maroon vinyl. My cluster is scheduled to be back from Williamson instruments in May. Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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