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Projects My '32 5 Window Project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by LM14, Apr 14, 2018.

  1. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 14,376

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Sanding fresh Bondo with 120 grit? You are a glutton for punishment!

    I've always roughed the sticky stuff off with 36 grit, then sanded to shape with 80 grit. If everything looked great and I didn't go too far, I would smooth the scratches up with 120 before primer.
     
  2. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,750

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    A scratch from 36 grit would probably be deeper than most layers of mud I spread. I only make a couple quick passes to knock down ridges.
    SPark
     
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  3. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,750

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Fighting wet ground and water in the shop. Winning for the most part. Shop vac about 10 gallons out in a couple spots today. Otherwise we stayed ahead of it. Need to deepen and widen my drainage ditch for the shop. Had to pull up some bricks from the patio behind my shop and tear out some of the edging. Need dry weather!!! Time between the first and third picture was 5 minutes. Heavy rain. Had 2 sump pumps running on that end of the shop. 2800 gph all day long. Another 1400 gph on the east side ran all day too. Staying even so far. Last 3 pics were a couple hours later.

    Sanding and filling holes between digging trench, checking pumps and vacuuming water.

    SPark

    CA995C97-B084-4C83-8EE8-F44F95457EB6.jpeg F6F9C010-84DD-48DC-8542-90F5903B72A8.jpeg 701DCE0F-EC40-409D-9CFC-C7AF0CA1BC3D.jpeg FE8EB95C-BA8C-44DA-9004-14EE8CD1D55F.jpeg 073BEAEF-8917-4996-ADA4-44F752ED8C8C.jpeg 428D6D23-112E-4DF1-9AC7-6A69FD727FBF.jpeg
     
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  4. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,750

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Survived the floods this week so far. Headed out early in the morning to get my heart reset. Won’t be any progress tomorrow on the car but hopefully my heart will stay in rhythm and I’ll have more energy.

    Found a low/flat area on the right rain gutter. Made a quick tape form and raised and thickened the area with my old friend kitty hair. Came out pretty decent.

    Went over the whole body with my bright light and filled little divots, deeper scratches, pinholes and small low areas while tending pumps last night. Spent tonight sanding all those areas. Fill primer over all those spots so I can do a round of blocking looking for big problems.

    Also spent a couple hours working the trunk gutter to its final shape. Think the main ugly is rubbed off that now.

    Few more hours on the inside of the trunk lid. It will get final primer tonight before I quit. Ready to flip it over and seriously attack the top. Waiting on a new longer Durablock to show up Friday. Longest board I have is 16” and it’s just not long enough to work the trunk lid correctly. Have a 30 incher coming. Will reach from edge to past center and should be a better answer.

    There’s your daily update. Wish me luck on getting zapped at 7:00 in the morning!

    SPark

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  5. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 23,447

    loudbang
    Member

    Well good luck with your latest "tune up" I hope it makes you feel better. :)
     
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  6. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 13,585

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Positive ions sent your way...and great continued assault with the Kitty Hair...;)
     
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  7. fauj
    Joined: Jun 25, 2009
    Posts: 694

    fauj
    Member
    1. 57-60 Ford F100s

    Just finished reading the entire thread, simply incredible! Hope your 'reset' goes well. Keep up the good work!
     
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  8. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,750

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Thanks everyone! Checked in at 7:00 this morning, got zapped at 8:00, out of the hospital by 9:00, home by 11:00. Had an old boss came to visit and was waiting in the driveway when we pulled in. He's not a car guy but he loves to look at the coupe project. We had a good working relationship and a great deal of respect for each other for many years. Spent some time visiting and felt so good after that I worked on the car for a few hours. Nothing fancy, just a little detail work on rain gutters and sanding some glazed areas. Feel much better, nice to have my breath and muscles again! Should have my new longer Durablock tomorrow afternoon and be able to tackle the outside of the trunk lid properly.
    SPark
     
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  9. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 14,376

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Show some pics of the blocks you are using and let us know where you've found is best to purchase. Hopefully I'll be in the "glazing" mode on a 32 coupe soon.
     
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  10. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,750

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Soft blocks are good for blocking. Not great for putty work except in oddly shaped areas. Then you have to be careful. These are 5” and 11” long.

    DuraBlocks are great for blocking flatter surfaces. Big areas. Very stiff and light.

    Both kinds of blocks are available at Eastwood in kits including several shapes and/or sizes. That’s where I get them.

    I also use “cheese graters”, pipes, tubing, rubber hose, files, Exacto knives or anything else that will shape or fit the shape I’m working for.

    I also have the old style hard rubber long and short blocks that have teeth to grab the paper. A short red one is in the picture beside the cheese graters.

    Add in long board air sanders, DA sanders and little 3” right angle grinders. Also do some rough in work with a die grinder with 3/4” to 2” sanding drums in them. For smaller details I use a Dremel with burrs or 1/4” and 1/2” sanding drums.

    Whatever it takes to get or match the shape you are working on.
    SPark

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    Last edited: May 31, 2019
  11. gregsmy
    Joined: Feb 11, 2011
    Posts: 9

    gregsmy
    Member
    from Florida

    Looks like I am going to need to get some of those blocks. Had not seen the soft blocks before, whats the benefit to those? I have some "bead" areas that have low spots or are not perfectly shaped. I was think of finding a good straight place and molding a sanding block off of it using some bondo and a piece of paper to allow for the thickness of the sandpaper. Then a piece of adhesive sandpaper and it should make all the beads a uniform size and shape. My biggest problem is that I cant seem to make things flat if I have to add filler. Seems like I sand off to much or not enough and I can see the area where the filler is.
     
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  12. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,750

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Practice. Time. More practice. More time. It’s more about a feel to me. I look at it like making a sculpture. I’ll work it a bit and walk away. Might come back an hour later and start again. Let the paper cut, basically putting no pressure on the paper. The longest board/block you can use will give the best results.

    The soft blocks flex a little and give you some leeway. If you try to sand over a mound of dry putty it will turn it into a smooth bump. They work best when doing finish work, or later stage blocking. Not for early rough work.

    Molding blocks for certain shapes is doable. I also make spreaders for those areas. Make them just slightly oversized so you have material to remove. Spreaders are cheap, don’t be afraid to cut them up. You can also define an area to work with masking tape so you only mud the areas you want and don’t lose your already correct areas. You can also tape off half part of a shape and concentrate on that half. Get the first half where you want it and then tape that area off and work towards it from the other half of the shape. Concentrate on one edge at a time.

    Every time I do body work I learn something. Having the proper tools and using quality materials is at the top of the list.

    SPark

    152918E3-3AD1-4A8C-80D4-ED30D702E253.jpeg
     
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  13. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,750

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    It’s just fill, sand, repeat.....until you are comfortable with what you see and feel.

    I’m on round 4 in these pictures. Sanded to find low areas, filled, sanded #2, filled #2, sanded #3, filled #3. I do thin filler coats. When it cures it will be sanding #4. Whatever it takes. I’m not a production shop. I only have to please me.

    Also notice I am only working the right 2/3 of the trunk lid. Had a low spot down the center and another about 6” off the right edge. As they get closer to correct I’ll tackle the low area along the left edge. I like to keep some control areas and references.

    Just find what works for you.

    SPark

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  14. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,750

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Pretty well finished the majority of the trunk lid today. Still a few very small low areas but the bulk of it is done. Check it in the morning and see if it still looks good.

    SPark

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  15. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 23,447

    loudbang
    Member

    You ever get "crazing" in your primer or paint at the edges of all the different layers of filler? Used to be a problem back in the lacquer days.
     
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  16. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,750

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    No problems like that. Rage Gold is a great filler, much better than what I learned with (Bondo or Blue Moon). Primer isn't near as hot as lacquer either.
    SPark
     
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  17. oliver westlund
    Joined: Dec 19, 2018
    Posts: 682

    oliver westlund
    Member

    wow, awesome, subscribed! best of luck and health to you!
     
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  18. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,750

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Round in all directions. Blocked it again this morning and found 3 shallow areas. Fixed them and ready for finer paper.
    SPark

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  19. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,750

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Broke out the guide coat today. First actual blocking with 320 grit on the trunk lid. Came out really good in my opinion. 3 very shallow low spots the painter can take care of with his hi build primer and blocking.

    Decided to rough in the shut lines across the door gaps. Can’t get them 100% without the body being bolted to the frame but this should be the majority of it. Will finish this job when we have it all bolted back together.

    SPark

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  20. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,750

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Just talked to the painter and should have another round of parts back from paint first of next week. Wheels, steering column and front rotors were all partially done last time I was there. Hopefully they will get finished next. That only leaves the frame, gas tank, grille shell and headlights for him. All parts that are more involved than clean and paint. Those parts need body work before paint. Had a big hail storm thru their area yesterday so his shop is crazy busy right now doing estimates and ordering parts.

    Started smoothing out and matching across the upper door gaps today. Right side pretty well done. Still a bit to go but I’ll wait to bolt the body back down before finishing.

    Looking better every day, well at least to me anyway. Every day of progress means there is less to do tomorrow.

    Had my 6th Avastin infusion yesterday. So far so good. 2 weeks we do a CT scan and see if we’ve gained anything. That’s the measuring stick.

    On to the left side!

    SPark

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  21. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,750

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Never mind about on to the left side. Found a 2’ long sag in the top edge of the belt line after a light coat of primer. Will need to address that before going any further.

    SPark

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  22. pprather
    Joined: Jan 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,384

    pprather
    Member

    Good catch at just the right time.

    Phil
     
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  23. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,750

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Added some filler to the belt line. It’s fairly close now. Will fine tune the top edge tomorrow.

    Found a couple spots on the side of the right A pillar that needed a bit more work too.

    Started on the left side. Will pull the door handle tomorrow and work that area.

    SPark

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  24. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 14,376

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Don't use straight edges and strings, use eyeballs. On bodywork, if it looks right, it is right.

    One other place you may want to address is the beltline right below the back corner of the roof. Where the beltline splits and goes around the back edge of the lower roof. Looks to me like your lower edge of the horizontal line has a baggy-ness to it. Sight down the line and it should be a nice flow on the bottom half. No bow out or down.

    32 beltline.jpg
     
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  25. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,750

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Caught it by eye, confirmed it with string and straight edges. Really not much straight on these bodies, more about the look and feel. Been slowly working that area down. It does have a small hump out on each side. Been whittling on that area. The left side is a bit closer. Good eye!

    SPark

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    Last edited: Jun 7, 2019
  26. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 14,376

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  27. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,750

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Getting all the wiggles and bumps out of the beltline, making it uniform across the door and onto the quarter, makes it a lot easier to see the issue where that beltline splits around the roof. Before I couldn't tell where the issues were. Now that the "beltline character line" is more uniform and better defined, it makes it easier to spot some of these things. I had been sanding on that area some but need to get more radical with it now that you confirmed what I thought I was seeing. Thanks! More sanding!
    SPark
     
  28. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,750

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Calling it a day. 3 hours was about all I was worth today. 14 hours was too much in one day yesterday, especially being the day after an infusion. Felt like hell and got no sleep. Fat old guys should not use hidden muscles!

    One small area along the top edge of the beltline bulge on the right side still needs some filler under the quarter window but it's getting closer! Shape is coming in now.
    SPark

    door86.jpg door96.jpg door97.jpg door98.jpg door93.jpg door94.jpg door95.jpg
     
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  29. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,750

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    OK, the wife says I’m like a junkie now. I need my fill and sanding fix.

    That should be the last of the heavy filler work on the belt line. The right side had a lot more issues to deal with than the left. Time to define some lines a bit better but this fixed a lot of visual issues for me.

    Thanks to those that helped point out issues and offer suggestions. Time to start seriously blocking and getting the details right before turning it over to the painter for his final prep. Edges to dress, blemishes to repair and lines to obsess over.

    SPark

    D7309104-30B5-49B4-BB3D-F23E9DB68976.jpeg 0D5D6747-3CF4-475A-90F5-C3575CD1F77A.jpeg 338EAE23-8F7C-4870-8159-E2C593C6E003.jpeg 817EE246-6D9E-4797-A54B-50109F6776CE.jpeg B5C719EE-F850-4867-9F3D-023907500610.jpeg 36A335A5-5476-4F82-BE13-CC7990561F7E.jpeg 67D21D1E-08E8-4200-83EF-74ACCD634C0C.jpeg E310BC29-E50F-4E5D-A809-CD496699572D.jpeg 34A42F4A-5C03-44E8-B042-7CA42D28B880.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2019
    brEad, catdad49, Shadow Creek and 3 others like this.
  30. Thanks for posting all your "under construction" bodywork photos & explanations. :cool:

    You're doing a great job ... And it helps the rest of us OCD hot rodders with projects see what lies ahead.:confused::cool:;)
     
    Stogy and loudbang like this.

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