Hey folks, this will be my thread for my '31 Coupe build. That is if I don't get kicked out for my wacky engine choice... So here's the plan so far (and totally incomplete): -Probably a highboy, haven't quite decided on that -5 inch chop, as it's already %75 done (and was when I got it) -Probably some sort of bucket seats -Keeping the rumble seat for sure -Pontiac OHC 6 with triple weber DCOEs -Probably fenderless, unless I grow fond of fenders between now and the finish -No decision on suspension, but will probably have two live axles. -And I'd love a deuce radiator shell. So here's the story. I bought the car in fairbanks alaska and it appears to have been off the road since 1960. The title was signed over in 1969! Lets hope the DMV lets me keep that. The body has got a 5 inch chop started, needs to be finished up around the a and b pillars, they need to be pie'd and lined up. All the floors are a bit rotten, so those will have to be replaced, or new ones fabricated (can I get a bead roller in here?). The bit of this car that will be kind of the centerpiece is the inline 6 that will power it (or at least, is slated to). The motor I have a line on is from a '67 firebird non-sprint. I know, that's non-hambable but hey, people have jag suspension and mustang II suspension and stuff on here, so I figure, close enough. That plan for the engine is to balance the rotating assembly as precise as I can (probably have to have a machine shop do the crank). My goal is a "red line" at somewhere around 7500 rpm. I'd be happy with 300hp, preferably up high. So the plan is so far, triple webers (probably from pierce manifolds). I'll probably have to have a custom cam ground to get the revvy power band I want out of it, any one on here know anything about welding and grinding cams? The trouble is with this ohc stuff, you can't just lengthen a pushrod and call it a day... Also, I may or may not have to have the cam carrier machined out for a standard cam bearing. Stock these motors just have the cam ride against the bare aluminum (and oil, obviously! haha). Possibly having the head ported would do me well, and of course I'll need bigger/dual valve springs for the higher rpm. Hardened valve seats are probably in order as well. The good news is that the lower end will all cross over to chevy inline 6's, so forged rods, aluminum pistons, etc, are all available, as well as different cranks. I think the pistons may cross over into small block land as well. I'll probably run it at a higher compression ratio as well (probably 10:1 or 10.5:1? I think that's what the factory sprint motors were). Now! On to the good part. The car on the trailer that towed it 360 miles home to anchorage. Oh and note the dent in the firewall, apparently it's a late '31 which is cool or something. 'Nother shot of the front. You can see the genuine heated and dropped 'A axle up front. Really cool, what should I do? Keep it or not? Rear quartering shot. You can see rust all along the bottom of the thing, and up into the wheel wells. This is happening on both sides. Oh, and the caty-wompus stance is due to the rear spring being not bolted in! This was super legit on a 360 mile ride. I of course, cargo-strapped the spring to the crossmember. Artsy fartsy shot Am I allowed another artsy fartsy shot? Well, either way you can see the stuff inside. An old seat and back, and the rumble seat decklid! Crappy cell phone shot at wal mart before pulling an all-nighter back to anchorage. Would you lower 48 folks believe me if I told you this was around 12-1 am? Also, after this I had to feed myself so I towed the thing through the taco bell drive through... no one said anything. Another crappy cell shot after loading up. Don't mind the dumb-assed strapping methodology, that was immediately corrected (my bad). Also note the literal truck-load of parts in the back. The finished bit of the chop looks good. I'm told it has a bit of filler, but I'm not concerned. The welds look good from the back. Here you can see the issue I need to correct with the front posts. Any tips from the experts? Rust repair, period correct style. Rust in the front right cowl and door bottoms. Rust in the rear wheel well. This whole piece will probably be replaced. Similar rusts, other side. 82 years old and still better than an 80's subaru. Needs some chemo and radiation for the cancer. Splash apron, old random horn, and original steering gearbox. I was amazed, this steering wheel has 0 cracks in it. That's much better than almost any wheel from the 70's! Box of goodies. Interior window trim, the bits cut from the chop, and awoooooga (that HAS to stay, I will make it work)! Light bar, I really like these things. Dunno why. The lights and bar both look totally workable.