What a productive weekend, being a hermit does pay off. I've been averaging 2 hours a night for the past few weeks. The 261 and turbo 350 was installed a little bit ago, I made some mid mounts because I didn't like the distance from the motor moun to the end of the turbo 350. I had to build myself a new lower rad hose to snake around the power steering pump, I found a few 1-1/2" mandrel bends, cut them up and pieced them together. I'll have my bro tig it up and pressure test it. Once I had all of the motor in, hooked up and good to go I started concetrating on the suspension itself. After I had it all in, I trued it up as best i could, it will be good enough to get me to the alignment shop. I figured I would have to by some new rim to clear the dics brakes but to my surprise the stock wheels fit! They are about an 1/8 of an inch away from the calipers. I always thought that early wheels would not fit with discs. Any ways I'm beat, 16 hours over the last 2 days, but it was sure worth it, here's a couple pics.
Great workmanship, I think I'll run a Mustang II in my '50 Fleetline, but that will be added after the bodywork is done.
Nice work ..Can I ask you something . The 261 is that the later chevy six ? I have one out of a late 70s chevy van Is that the same . I now need a engine for my 50 .I know they do not fit on to the iron powerglide. That setup of yours looks good.
Sailor and V8Minor: The earlier style 235 and 261 (1954-1962) shown above in the pictures. You tell the difference from earlier 216 and 235 from the 4 screws on side of the valve cover. The earlier 216 and 235(-1953) use two studs on top of the valve cover. The 1963 and up engine are the size 194,230,250 and 292. The 194,230 and 250 is used in cars. The 250 and 292 is used in trucks and vans. The 292 engines have a taller block. The easy way to tell the difference between a early (-1962) engine and the newer (1963-) is that the distributor is located in the middle of the engine side on the pre 62 and the distributor is more to the front of the 63 up.
To the naysayers.....Look closely...this car is traditional hot rodding at its best.....NICE JOB!!!!!!
Wow... that's totally weird... I'm at the same stage in my build almost (haven't painted the frame rails, crossmember, etc.), our cars are the same color, I just did the M2, and we have inliners (except mines red) I did a double-take... Stacey
Amazing work, she should zip around the corners now. Ain't nothing sucks worse than stock Chevy kingpin suspension, it's ancient technology at best.
Thanks for the words of encouragement! This project has been draggin' me down as of late. Had I known all the hassle of putting a power rack in with the early 6, I would have "convinced" my dad to use a manual rack. Stacey, why do you think I was askin' you all those questions! Aeroman, it's not POR 15, it's a top secret blend of paint, fast dry Tremclad out of a can.
I wondered where you were on this project...looks like all the hard work is paying off for ya! Excellent work...makes me feel like even MORE of a HACK!!!
Great work! I'm going to be doing a similair swap on a 1946 Coupe. I'll be using the RBS bolt-in kit with Manual Rack. But I will be installing a 235 straight six and three speed from a 1955 Sedan delivery. My question is about the front motor mounts for the Straight six. Looks like you have the front mounts bolted to a piece of square tubing. Is this something you made yourself? Do you have rubber mounts at the frame for vibration isolation? Thanks for any info!
Sorry for the late reply, I've been out of town. Yes, I made the front mount out of some 1x2 tubing. I cut up some 1/4" thick rubber strips I had, doubled them up for isolators.
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