Ok, back on track. COS, those would be just fine. I designed a set up like that when I was at the Rod Factory over 15 years ago. Every vehicle I have seen since I did those installations is still in fine working order. Here is the conclusion: The crossmember was already drilled out to 5/8" as I mentioned before so I had to either weld up the holes and re-drill or use aftermarket parts ready made for this. Also I would normally fab a set of my control arms but in the interest of time I purchased a set of TCI tubular lowers. I prepared the crossmember by reaming out the holes and welding in the provided sleeves. A little copper anti-sieze helps extract the bolt after you weld. You can see where I did a spot weld on the crossmember where the bottom plate of this Heidts piece is folded in a press brake. This is where all of the cracks propagate from on every one of thier crossmembers that I have repaired over the last 5 years or better. Next I pulled the lower bolt out and re-reamed the sleeves and added more anti-sieze. Installed the lower control arm and cut out a small 3/16" plate to fasten the back of the control arm to the frame. Like Dirty31's suggestion this spreads the load out over a larger area. His idea will work to control the brakeing loads but still doesn't quite kill the single shear problem. Realisticly I should have a frame gusset on either side of the rear bushing and on the front. But because the front bushing is out in front of the crossmember and interferes with the rack and pinion boot it is a compramise. The full sleeve and single 5/8" bolt will support the tension load reasonably well. Is this the best solution, no. Is this solution adequeate for street driving, yes. Spreading your braking loads over a greater area of your frame is always a good idea.