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Mounting the '32 body on the frame.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by THE-SYNDICATE, Mar 20, 2010.

  1. THE-SYNDICATE
    Joined: May 13, 2003
    Posts: 802

    THE-SYNDICATE
    Member

    Hey HAMB,

    So I am fiddling with my new Brookville body and trying to get things lined up with the frame along with bolting things down. I have a minor contour difference between the body frame structure of the body right where the frame rails kick up in the back which is no major deal. I'm going to make a cut on either side right down thru the body and just reshape this area. Easy deal... But, how much of a gap would one see at the rear most body bolt? Mine is not even close right now.... I will tighten slightly as the kick-up area is reworked but there will still be a good gap back there.

    I'm puzzled....
     
  2. who built the frame?
     
  3. THE-SYNDICATE
    Joined: May 13, 2003
    Posts: 802

    THE-SYNDICATE
    Member

    I did along with my friend Mike Smith on his JIG which was built off of a brand new Deuce Factory Frame. It never moved when it came out of the JIG so I'm pretty sure we are safe there!

    Plus the gas tank fits relatively well with the body when it's in place... Meaning that I don't think the frame rails are pulled down too much in the back.
     
  4. i know model a's have wood block under the mounting points
    do 32's have any....maybe
    tk
     
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  5. rexrogers
    Joined: Sep 18, 2007
    Posts: 1,033

    rexrogers
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Between the last body bolt and the frame try a 3/8" spacer you'll need the room for the fuel tank. and check the door fit before you change any of the subframe.
    Rex
     
  6. THE-SYNDICATE
    Joined: May 13, 2003
    Posts: 802

    THE-SYNDICATE
    Member

    Rex!

    Sweet..... 3/8" spacer sounds generally close... I'll head back out and have a look.

    Thanks,

    Robert M.
     
  7. THE-SYNDICATE
    Joined: May 13, 2003
    Posts: 802

    THE-SYNDICATE
    Member

    Here are a few pics.... The thing is so damn close to being perfect that I think I'm wasting time... However the welting needs to go in still and I don't want to reef on the body when tightening down the bolts... The kick-up section deff needs to be worked a bit. I tried with a little bending and hammer/dolly work the other night but this is as close as I could get.

    Have a look,

    Robert
     

    Attached Files:

  8. THE-SYNDICATE
    Joined: May 13, 2003
    Posts: 802

    THE-SYNDICATE
    Member

    But overall the thing looks good!!! I guess thats the important part!

    Here's a few more...
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Pewsplace
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,764

    Pewsplace
    Member

    If the gap between the gas tank and the lower edge of the body is a 1/4"You are O.K. on the frame. If the gap is greater than 3/4" you need to rework the frame or body to make the gas tank look correct. I have seen pro built cars where they add a panel below the trunk which is wrong in my opinion. I have a Deuce Frame Co. chassis and it is right on the money when the sedan body was mounted. Fix it right and you will be happy.
     
  10. 392_hemi
    Joined: Jun 16, 2004
    Posts: 1,737

    392_hemi
    Member

    Some builders pie cut the frame and move the tank up closer to the body for a cleaner look.
     
  11. THE-SYNDICATE
    Joined: May 13, 2003
    Posts: 802

    THE-SYNDICATE
    Member

    Good to know on the gap situation... I will most likely get the every bolt dialed in this week except for the rear... I will slice the frame just behind the rear cross member and tighten the tank up to the body as needed. I think it was something like 1/2" but I want the 1/4" gap look.

    Ah the joys of fit and finish!!!!

    Thanks,

    Robert M.
     
  12. Deuce Roadster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2002
    Posts: 9,519

    Deuce Roadster
    Member Emeritus

    EDIT :

    These guy must type a LOT faster than I do. They said what I was typing ... before I got it posted ...



    It is NOT UNCOMMON ... to have to heat and bent the rear frame rails to get a GOOD fit between the body and the fuel tank.

    With the fuel tank installed it the frame ... install the spreader bar. You most likely will have to make a few spacers to fill the GAP left between the spreader bar and the frame rails ... aftermarket spreader bars are well known to be SHORTER that the original ones from Henry. Once you get the tank where you want it in the frame, and have the spreader bar installed ... you can put a floor jack under the spreader bar and then fire up your torch with a ROSEBUD and heat the rails at the " C " notch.

    Move the rails until ... you are satified with the GAP between the tank and the body. :) Everything else will fall in line ...

    [​IMG]

    I messed with the rails on my 3W ... until I have barely a 1/8th of a inch clearence ... between the fuel tank and the body :D and I have all Henry parts ( tank, rails and body ) ... so when using reproduction parts ... yo KNOW you will have to do some " adjusting "
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2010
  13. THE-SYNDICATE
    Joined: May 13, 2003
    Posts: 802

    THE-SYNDICATE
    Member

    C-Notching the frame surely put a bit of "LOVE" into the final result of the rear frame horn position.... That much welding can move the world... I'm so with ya on giving it a bit more persuasion with the big BLUE wrench in the end. I think I will need to stay behind my crossmember at this point due to spring angle and all that but there is still plenty of length to clean things up.

    Good shit !!!
     
  14. John Stimac
    Joined: Jan 15, 2008
    Posts: 516

    John Stimac
    Member

    I think everyones right about moving your frame. I sell Bville bodies, have installed at least three on stock Ford frames. They all fit perfectly, like socks on a rooster. I would not alter the body, its correct. This holds tru for both the roadster and three window bodies by Bvill
    Stimac
     
  15. 32SEDAN
    Joined: Jul 30, 2008
    Posts: 1,283

    32SEDAN
    Member

    I would not alter the body - X2

    Will you use the stock type welting or other between the body and frame?
     

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