This should be really easy but I'm not seeing it. How do you mount a SignalStat turn signal switch on a skinny steering column? If I mount the switch hugging the curve of the column, it crushes the wire bundle. Look like the bundle is aimed to go into a hole in the side of the steering column but on a 1941 Ford or other very old car, that's not going to work. On the other hand, the curvature of the SignalStat looks like it's made to fit a skinny steering column. I could just take off the back cover and cut a bigger hole in it to run the wires perpendicular from the switch down the length of the column. Wouldn't be hard. Doesn't seem quite right though having to cut a hole in the cover. Am I missing something? What are you doing with wire bundle on your retro-fit turn signal switch?
maybe if you remove that ugly black plastic crap, and form the wires to fit next to the column, then tape them up, it might work?
Thought about that, even without the wrap still seems to crush the wires. Agree with your assessment though about "that ugly black plastic crap." I'll look at it again.
Friction tape ends up looking a little like asphalt loom....sort of.... but it's also what I use when I want something to look like it was done a long time ago. It's not the prettiest, but it's what most guys had in the tool box back when. If you have to file a notch in the housing to make the wires fit, then do it.
I've installed a couple dozen of them, most in my youth in the 60's/70's, and back then they did not have the modern crush armor like yours does. We would just wrap the wires with electrical tape (some of you will remember the impregnated cloth e-tape aka "friction" tape lol)- didn't even have easy wire ties, but you could find clips to organize things. A couple suggestions, replace the crush tube with some shrink wrap which will look better than the tube or tape, and then find/make up a bushing over the skinny column to move the wires out a bit, or find a good shape earlier unit without the crush tube. A little bushing work worked well on the 50's REOs, Binders, and deuce n a halfs I did back then- sent out a couple with radiator hose bushings, hose clamps as necessary
I modified my stock '36 Willys steering column and used one of those signals. The factory column has composition bushings in a thin tube. I machined out a heavy water pipe to accept ball bearings suppoeting the stock shaft. Had to modify the stock braclet to fit the larger tube too. Worm clamp works fine. I used chrome plated flex loom.
Some of those switches had a bracket that bolted to the curved side that gave it about 1/4" clearance for the wires. The bracket was shaped like a big C, and had slots to run a worm gear clamp strap through. Lots of older semi trucks had that style.
you need the pieces that fasten to the switch for the clamp to go in. If the moderators don't smack me as this is just informational show and tell on the bracket that you will probably have to create here is the ebay link to the switch the photo is of with a couple more photos. Vintage Signal-Stat Blinker / Hazard Assembly Switch | eBay You can probably come up with a sleeve that will clamp to the column to hide the wires better than the plastic loom that has these guys undies in such a knot they didn't read and understand the original question.
your unit has a border cast into the housing around the wires... mine does not, mine therefor has a larger hole that lets the wires set further away from the column...
Tightly (braid) the wires and feed thru shrink tubing. After the heat gun has done its job it actually has a nice even twist look to it. A little ArmorAll wipe down, and some matching zip ties and your styling.
Here are the instuctions for the Signal Stat : Put a turn signal switch (HOSE CLAMP STYLE) in this summer with the help of a friend. First thing was removed plastic wire loom, and put an asphalt loom on instead. Here it is installed in my '47 Plymouth. Used a Harley Davidson clutch cable clamp to hold the wires down the column.
There is a clamp setup that uses a hose clamp also the allows more room for the wiring. We used alot of these switches back in the day on trucks.
The wire gauge looks bigger than necessary when comparing them to a stock set up. Our 56 has a 3/8” half round steel cap painted the color of the column.
That's what's going on here: the semi truck bracket wasn't included. It's brand new and was originally sold through a truck supply shop. I'll just modify the cover. Problem solved. Checked again, even with the plastic loom removed, there's no way to mount it on directly on the steering column without crushing the wires. Good link. They have a lot of nice stuff. Probably order some of that woven wire loom from them. Even though I have plenty of modern insulated wire, I might splurge and go with some of the cloth covered wire to keep it looking period correct.
If you are missing the mounting hardware. You can get a kit here, both ways to mount it (HOSE CLAMP or STRAP) https://www.wheelerfleet.com/product/mount-kit-lamp/83024 https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/truck-lite-9190-mounting-hardware-for-turn-signal-switch/ or https://www.partdeal.com/signal-sta...or-turn-signal-switch-9190-by-truck-lite.html
With that Truck-Lite Part No.: 9190 part number for the kit that TRRodder showed above you should be able to walk into a lot of semi truck parts counters and buy or order the kit. There is usually an independent semi truck parts house in most cities of any size and at some truck stops with shops.
View attachment 5238984 View attachment 5238984 you can also cut a hose clamp in two amd to the required length. punch a hole into them and screw both parts to the signal stat instead of the original clamping mechanism which might be tricky on a skinny column. plus you can add a ground cable between clamp an switch after that just use the clamp to mount it. that's what i did.. concerning your cable problem you could maybe unbolt the rear cover and file it open to get more cable room or remove the plastic shield and just tape the cables as it was on the old ones
You're right. Unbolting the rear cover and 'file it open to get more cable room' is the answer. Thanks to the people who've replied, I can see some covers are different than mine. Thanks, I do have these parts. One of the replies mentioned a "bracket" so I thought there was something else. Enlarging the opening is the easy answer. It's only a few minutes work.
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