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Hot Rods Model A - SBC cooling options

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Barn Hunter, Jun 28, 2019.

  1. Barn Hunter
    Joined: Feb 15, 2012
    Posts: 958

    Barn Hunter
    Member

    The last week here in Savannah has been cooking us to a crisp with everyday temps in the mid 90's. I haven't had my A out much since the hot summer started. I've got a pretty tame 350 in it but as you all know, the fan sits low on the radiator (Walker). I would like some input from people with experience. In your experience with a similar setup, how do you rate an electric fan vs. a zips riser for COOLING. I don't want to compromise my engine for the sake of "looking traditional" which I'm not sure either of these options is. I know both work but it seems to me that when you shut off the engine and let an electric fan run, it would help cool everything down whereas when the engine fan stops, that's it. I've got to do one of these options.
    Please, from experience.....Thanks!
     
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  2. Mr cheater
    Joined: Aug 18, 2010
    Posts: 410

    Mr cheater
    Member

    [​IMG]Zips water pump riser is what I used car never gets above 180 degrees


    Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
     
  3. G-son
    Joined: Dec 19, 2012
    Posts: 527

    G-son
    Member
    from Sweden

    If you've got a good shroud on it, it shouldn't matter much where your fan is - the shroud makes sure the fan sucks air through the radiator, and through ALL of the radiator, not just a small section.
     
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  4. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 1,365

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    You don't mention if you have a shroud on your radiator, but as G-son points out, a shroud is a must. I have read several articles on street rod cooling and its amazing to look at the difference of airflow without a shroud and with one. A shroud basically funnels the air through all of the radiator. Without the shroud the air was all over the engine compartment stopping the radiator from doing its job efficiently. Also if you're not running a hood the air can actually hit the firewall and create a positive pressure behind the radiator stopping the air flow. Do you have any pictures of your car?
     
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  5. Tri-power37
    Joined: Feb 10, 2019
    Posts: 225

    Tri-power37
    Member

    My cooling situation is very similar to yours in my 37 Chevy. I put a electric pusher fan in front of the radiator it covers almost the entire rad core. It is the circular type fan with no shrouding attached it has curved fan blades and moves a lot of air. I built a small frame to hold the fan about 1/4 inch away from the radiator. I don’t like those fasteners that hold the electric fan by pulling those plastic ties through the radiator. I installed one of those flex cool adjustable fan relay kits and it cycles at a set temperature and keeps the car cool. I can watch the temperature climbing in traffic then see the ammeter gauge drop slightly and I know the fan came on and the temp holds steady at 200. I wired it so it comes on when the car is parked as your car can become even hotter when you park it after driving some. Unless you get real close up on the grill and look hard at the front of the radiator you would never know the fan is there.
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2019
    Barn Hunter likes this.
  6. Model A Vette
    Joined: Mar 8, 2002
    Posts: 1,053

    Model A Vette
    Member

    I ran a stainless fan for years on my 350 in my '30 A.
    It ran hot when the outside temps were in the '90s.
    I switched to a puller fan from an '88 Celebrity 6 cyl.
    It has shroud and I made brackets to mount it to the radiator. I use a temperature switch from a Chrysler mini van to control it. It does not run at highway speeds unless it is really hot outside. It cools just fine in lines to get into a show.
    The same fan was used on other GM "A" body cars of the same vintage.
    The minivan switch is set to come on at 185° and shut off at 175°. The NAPA catalog has the specs to find the correct switch for your desired setup.
     
    Barn Hunter likes this.
  7. Barn Hunter
    Joined: Feb 15, 2012
    Posts: 958

    Barn Hunter
    Member

    So...here's a pic. I need to do something. Is there a shroud that someone offers that fits a sbc with a zips riser in a Model A ? 20190630_103921 (2).jpg
     
  8. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 3,654

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    You never mentioned if you're actually having over heating problems. Are you?
     
  9. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 3,654

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    I have no Zips riser, no shroud, no electric fan. I have a 283 in a Model A, with a 4 blade fan, and I have no over heating problems at all, on the hottest days, stop and go traffic, full steam down the fwy, whatever. I did have some issue with a t-stat not opening soon enough, and the temp climbing pretty high until it did, but once opened that was the end of the problem. I replaced the t-stat and have no more problems. I'm not convinced either a shroud or a riser or an electric fan are necessary, if the cooling system is operating properly and you have the engine timed correctly.
    IMG_7650.JPG
     
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  10. enjenjo
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 2,465

    enjenjo
    Member
    from swanton oh

    Using manifold vacuum for vacuum advance will help greatly in keeping it cool.
     
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  11. Barn Hunter
    Joined: Feb 15, 2012
    Posts: 958

    Barn Hunter
    Member

    A friend mentioned timing as a possibility yesterday. The only time I see it getting hot is sitting in traffic. It looks like your engine sits higher in the frame bringing your fan closer to the middle of the radiator. I'll check on that and the vacuum advance. Thanks.
     
  12. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 1,365

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    I see a couple of issues. First the centerline on your pump is very low. Second the fan blade is very small. You aren't bringing air thru the top 2/3 of your radiator. You also aren't using a hood so the air flow is all over the place. I have a friend with a '37 Ford and he had zero cooling issues at all. He decided to remove the hood sides and all of a sudden he had cooling issues. After he replaced the hood sides the issue went away. In your case with the motor position as it is and no hood, I would replace the fan with an electric fan and shroud unit and I guarantee your cooling issues will be solved. You need to bring air flow thru your entire radiator.
     
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  13. Chainsaw chipper
    Joined: Nov 29, 2007
    Posts: 92

    Chainsaw chipper
    Member
    from Illinois

    I ran a 350,auto trans with a Zips riser mount for years in a 29 sedan delivery.It had a shroud from Cooling Components ,Walker Radiator and a Vintage Air/heat unit .I drove it almost 30,000 with that set up and the only time it hit 200 was in 90 plus weather with the air on.
     
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  14. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 5,600

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    Just a thought.. If you can raise the motor and trans up a bit, you can run a stock 50's fan blade and should cool fine.... **clic pic** sedan motor & interior 001.JPG sedan motor & interior 002.JPG
     
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  15. That fan does not move enough (if any) air.
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2019
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  16. proartguy
    Joined: Apr 13, 2009
    Posts: 331

    proartguy
    Member
    from Sparks, NV

    1. That fan is junk. If you want a flex fan use a real Flex-a-lite unit.
    2. Make sure the initial timing is not too retarded, use manifold port for vacuum advance.
    3. A fan shroud makes all the difference. Maybe not traditional, but can make the difference between drivable and frustrating.
     
    Barn Hunter likes this.
  17. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 9,669

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    I can see a fan shroud making a difference with a fan that tiny and that low. And raising the entire drivetrain would be a pain in the ass in a complete car.

    Get the riser, get the biggest fixed blade fan you can fit. Party on.
     
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  18. ZAPPER68
    Joined: Jun 13, 2010
    Posts: 198

    ZAPPER68
    Member
    from BC

    I had a Walker rad in my '28 Ford sedan delivery powered by a blown (144 B&M) sbc. I used 2 electric fans positioned diagonally which provided approximately 75% rad coverage. The fans were 4 blade units and pulled a ton of air...I used a temperature switch but once moving the induced airflow was sufficient to cool the engine very effectively.

    My car had solid hood sides and I usually ran without them installed...it made very little difference whether they were on or not. However, there MUST be an escape route for the hot air to be evacuated. As previously mentioned, timing is critical! Other than an issue with the radiator...(Walker came to the rescue) I never had any cooling issues. BTW...the engine made 400 hp on the dyno at the crank.
     
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