What is a fair price on a 1930 model a roadster body only? Typical midwest rust lower 2 inches need work. All panels there and complete. See them all over the scale price wise. Just wondering what they are actually selling for at fair market value? Help me buy a roadster body...
"See them all over the scale price wise." Just wondering what they are actually selling for at fair market value?" Fair market value is the first "sub quote" I copied that you wrote. " see them all over the scale price wise." ... is honestly your answer Question is too subjective - It all depends on condition, who ( private owner vs swap meet flipper for profit) and the reason for selling and who ( private buyer or to flip it to make a buck) and the reason for buying. You'll get 100 opinions....... If you want it - go buy it. Others will think you paid to much and others will think you got a a steal and others will say that's fair. "See them all over the scale price wise." It's what you're willing to spend and what their willing to sell for is the fair market value at that moment on that item. Opinions will range from 1K TO 6K I'm thinking Good luck
Whatever you pay for it if you are happy then it's a fair price no? All depends how badly you'd like to own it.
The seller is the son of a deceased collector. He is wanting to clean house but not get beat up. I want to come home with it at a lower than egay price. Just do not see enough roadsters around this area sell. Its your typical midwest car could be better could be a ton worse.
Well, if it is close by not having to pay shipping on an Ebay purchased body or drive hundreds of miles to pick one up is a consideration. I've got my eye on a Model A body and frame right now that may be a tad high in price but I don't have to drive 500 miles to get them and that would be several hundred dollars in my truck. It isn't a roadster but it's pretty interesting.
I brought home a 30 roadster in poor condition even by Maine standards - most people think I paid too much, especially guys who are used to tin from the south, southwest, midwest, west and just about anywhere other than the Rust Belt. However, the fellas who've been around here and know that pickins are slim, especially when buying on a budget, know that I made a fair purchase. In other words, it's all about what its worth to you, not what anyone else outside of your environment, fiscal tax bracket, skill set, etc. is willing to pay. My take is be honest with yourself about how much you're willing to pay based on what its worth to you but don't try to screw the seller either. Good luck!!
Get on Brookville's website and find the price of a complete body. Then subtract the costs of all the subfloor and patch panel parts you will need to buy from them. Then subtract a bit more for sandblasting. Then some more for the labor to install the patches. Then add about 10% for having a real Ford Model A body. That will probably give you a good market price.
Alchemy breaks down the issues quite well. Over 3 years time I saw them run from 1k for junk up to 6k for sound and easily patched and prepped.
Alchemy's got good advice. All the rot has to be fixed or replaced....and there is a cost associated with that for every panel. In the end you'll weigh the difference between just buying a new body outright vs fixing the old one and you'll probably be amazed at how close together the prices will be.
Have not seen many for sale around here What is average price you guys have seen around for 30-31 roadster shell needing the lower 6" of sheet metal? Need prices going to look tomorrow Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
I`ve done the rusty bottom thing and the last two Model A roadsters have been Brookville bodies just to save time and aggravation. On a Model A I`m not really worried about Henry steel or not. The only advantage of buying original is possibly a title. I wouldn`t buy one without the title.
I would find it hard to give three grand for one missing the bottom six inches. And it being the body only. For three thousand I would wait for a better one. Offer him a thousand and go to fifteen hundred. He is wanting to get rid of it. An I don't think you would be doing him wrong.
But what does the average complete body shell been bringing in the real world. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Not far from me a couple months ago. A guy had a 30 roadster. Not much rust at all. Frame front and rear end. And grille shell for four thousand. That's what he was asking and probably would have taken less.
Subrails and doors are the areas I'd check carefully. Two grand for a solid starter and up depending on condition. Bob
fenders? Did I read the post wrong? I thought we were talking about a Roadster body? but I guess if you mean that the body does not carry the title but the frame does, point taken. But that does not mean this body can't come with a title and if it does, that would be worth something.
Recently sold a very good 28 RPU body, box, fenders, splash aprons, running boards and hood for $5000. The guy who bought it didn't hammer the price at all. Granted the sheet metal was original Henry Ford and Clean.
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