I am curious about the rear suspension set-ups you Model A Guys are running, and why you chose that style. I would like to see some pic's, your build thread links, and parts info. I am getting ready t start a new frame build ad want to pick some brains before i make mistakes and wast money.. Thanks In Advance Ryan
Take a look at the last page of my thread, theres some suspension pictures there.May be of some use. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=377133 Nick.
I'm using a Ford 8 inch rear from a '65 Mustang,just the right width, stock Model A spring on home made perches and home made ladder bars.
What car did your 8 inchcome out of? I have hopes of running my car full fendered since I have them. I Wil run a 4" drop I-beam with hair-pins, once again since I have them already, I have both a Disc brake set-up, and a 48 Ford Drum brake set-up for the front. The only rear I have on hand is a S-10 4x4 rear from another project. I hear that some have ran these with no problems holding up, any input on this true or false??/ I am going to run a stock low HP SBC for starters till I get my 58 283 built (future build)..So I want to figure out what rear suspension set-up will be best for a car that plans to get driven alot....
Mine is a nine-inch Ford with triangulated four-link and coilovers. Very effective, but not entirely traditional. I think there have been some technical improvements to the traditional setups in the last few years that make them more effective than the similar setups from years ago. I have a friend that swears by his triangulated ladder bars and cross spring.
I am open to any and all suggestions, I want something that will work good and last a good long time..who makes a good product, did you build it, if so what materials did you use? Or did you use a kit, if so who did you buy it from?... I know its lots of questions but I want to cover all my bases before I even turn a wrench..
Here is mine 9" Z, 36 bones, speedway A spring and hangers, and a ford 7.5 rear. the bones are split with rod ends. I still need to make a torque arm. I wish I wouldent have Z'ed it so much but whatever
What car did the rear come out of? Did you make your crossmember or did youbuy it? If so who did you get it from
since you are going full fendered i suggest a Maverick 8" rear. they are about 56" wide wheel mount surface to wheel mounting surface. i'm not sure how wide a S-10 4 X 4 rear is...maybe it's close? on my `28 Tudor i have a Maverick rear , pete & jakes style ladders bars angled in and coil overs shocks. it has worked fine for 14 years. i built a `29 tudor in the 80's with the same exact setup and the rear suspension worked flawlessly for 40,000+ miles
The rear end came out of a mid to late 70's ford ranger 4x4. The main reson I picked it because it was limited slip, narrow at 56" drum to drum, and easy to find. The rear crossmember is stock model A. This is the best pic of the rear crossmember I have now
The S-10 measures 59 from drum face to drum face, so it sounds like itmaybe to wide I will have to measure the Model A factory rear and see what it measures...
I have the 8" out of a '78 v8 Mustang II. Triangulated four bar with coil overs. The shocks are Alden. The 4 Bar is from the Duece Factory. I used this as I was able to get the rear of the car lower than it was with ladder bars, coil springs with airbags, and tubular shocks, built in the '70's. The rear crossmember is stock on the unaltered frame. I did box the frame generously where the triangulated bars attach. This suspension conversion was done on the completed car (see avatar). It does bottom out occasionally. With 80+k on this setup, I've had to repair cracks in the lower shock mounts a couple times (when you bottom out, something eventually has to give). A 2" kickup at the rear of the frame would eliminate this. Take a look at an aftermarket frame (like Total Cost Involved) to see how they set up the rear crossmember and triangulated bars. Hope this helps, PHIL
Thanks Guys for all the info, I really wanna keep it full fendered since I have them, plus I think Un-Chopped A's look killer when they are slammed and full fendered...,
lrs30, you might want to reconsider using a s-10 rear. The width you quoted sounds like it was from a 4x4 truck. Check mid 80's-early 90's 2-wheel drive s-10's. They measure 48" between backing plates, and 54" to outside of drums.
I dont have any pics on my laptop, but Im running a '57 Ford 9" out of an F100. Good width, strength and desireable bolt pattern (5 on 5.5") to run early Ford steel wheels. Its hung suicide style (to channel the body farther over the frame in my case) with the stock Ford A leaf spring, with 32" hairpins. I went with the pins for simplicity and to save some space again. Works really nice. Itll have its real test when I get it on the road.
Yhea it is a 4x4, I was gonna use it on a modified project that got shelved, when i cam upon the 31, I am keeping my eyes open for another rear-end. I guess I should have made myself clearer, when I stated that..Thanks for the heads up on the 2 wheel drive rear-ends. I think I am gonna look for something a bit stronger anyway it was just a brainstorming idea cause I keep tripping over the damn thing in the garage....lol
You'll probably find the S-10 rear fairly strong. My pal had one under a 1938 Morris 12 - looks like a slightly scaled up Angllia - with a 350 SBC up front and a T-350. Guessing here, but the car probably weighted 2800-2900#. The engine was a very mild build, cam, headers, Performer intake, 600 Edelbrock carb. He drove the little car hard at times, spun the tires now and then and no grief from the drive train. The Ford 8" is a good choice as well. The axles are pretty much the same as the Ford 9", 28 spline axles. I run a 9" with 28 spline axles with a very torquey 462" BB Buick. No probs with it. Open diff fwiw. 2400# roadster.
mine was from a Galaxy. But most from that era were the same width, as I swapped center section and an axle from another unknown housing. I also used a 4 inch drop front with hairpins up front. Check my album photos
Great info guys, I have not measured my banjo yet to see its overall length, but since I want to keep the fenders I need to make sure that I keep the rear wheels under them, I think as stated before that my 56 inch wide S-10 rear may be a bit to wide.. Thanks Ryan
Anybody else have any info they would like to share? I am all ears...Since finding a 9" around here is gonna be tuff, what other cars have you guys used rear's out of with success..
2wd s10 will fit under the fender with 15x8's & 255/70's....in a 30/31 body my 28 has a triangulated 4 link with wishbone lowers , centered up 8" , with 9" truck ends and brakes...think its 55" wheel to wheel. also running coilovers... the 7.5 would probably hold up as long as it doesn't hook up a 46" axle fit good with my halibrands but not with my steel wheels , with the front fenders. if my car had a little more weight or a little softer spring it would ride pretty good , but i have the lightest spring avalible in a 8" coil @ 200 pounds. if i had gone with a 10" spring , i could have gone with a 130 or 150 ish spring . but i only kicked up the rear of the frame about 4" or so , so i i could only use the short coil over and still get it as low as i wanted.......
Here's some shots of my sedan's rear suspension. The rear is out of a 78 Ford truck. I made all the arms out of 1" tubing with 3/4" heim joints. Somebody mentioned a 57 rear end earlier. I have one too but it barely fit under my roadster and would not fit under my channeled 31 sedan. The rear quarters on coupes/roadsters are pretty straight up and down. On a sedan the body is narrow at the rear crossmember but widens as it goes up towards the beltline when viewed from the back.
Thanks for the input Brandon, I will have to make a trip over to check outyour set-up.. Lucky77 What does that 57 rear measure from drum face to face.. An Idea?
Why is finding a 9" Ford rearend in KY gonna be a problem? They came in every full sized Ford from '57 till the mid '80's. Surely to God theres a few old Fords still left up there. Not being a smartass, just letting you know it should be very easy to find. Now back to your question. My sedan has a 9" out of a Bronco or truck with 4 bars and coilovers. Kevin Ooltewah Speed Shop
after last summers scrap free for all , about ever vehicle that was being driven or chained down , was loaded up and sent over seas in one form or another....friend of mine probably scrapped 50 or so 9" rears.....
I am running semi eliptic springs on the rear of my model A closed cab pickup. I extended the chassis and used some shortened 70's Mopar light weight leaf springs.
I am also putting together a 50's-60's style full fendered coupe, mine a '29. Too bad I didn't have the nuts to ask a few questions here several months ago! I ended up doing everything twice. Thanks, BTW, to Jason Slover and his dad at Pete&Jake's. Normally I don't do too much with the "1-800-hot rod" companies, but these guys "get" the home built hot rod concept. Here is a rather windy diatribe on what I did. Hope this helps. GA http://hagillette.blogspot.com/2009/09/not-one-but-two-rear-ends.html
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