Yes. Don't, LOL Keep things simple for yourself. It is a neat idea but won't likely get you on the road sooner or cheaper than using Ford parts.
OK, but it seems like one of those "Free parts" type things that end up costing a fortune to me. I still think the Model A front end will get you going sooner and cheaper.
I lost all my pics somehow but work has begun on the frame...I have 3 chunks of frame...(I know I know Model A frames are only $50 - $100 down in the States)... up here they run in the $350-$500 range and are usually quite pitted and I'm cutting it all up any way so why hack up a good one?...the 1st was wadded up and badly pitted, the front crossmember was torched out and it had been obviously picked up in the air with the rear axle still attached as the rear crossmember was bent forward several inches as the weight of the torque tube would do, the front frame horns are bent twisted and cracked....the 2nd is remarkably unpitted but hacked off at the crossmembers, dented here and there and brackets cut off, 3rd is most complete brackets etc. but front rails torched off at firewall (they might still be available)& no xmembers....1st one I took a Jack-All and put it between the center and rear xmbrs and pushed the rear member to within a hair off straight then I hacked it into 3 sections, the front rails are going to have the upper and lower edges cut off and will be used as boxing plates (R outer to L inner etc.) same at rear... a 1/4 " will be trimmed from the top and bottom edges of the 2nd frame so the thickness is the same as o/g, horns straightened and added to the 2nd frame....the middle section shown will have member removed, holes cut in and bent to use as an X or K member...there will be a Z at front and back of rails
So, have you cobbled a frame together already? I'm not sure I'm following what you're saying here. With pieces like you're describing, I'd be inclined to build the frame out of box tubing and just use the crossmembers and front rails for the taper and the number stamping. That would be a lot easier on you to turn into a straight frame than using pieces I think.
Not yet ... I lost a bunch of pics of progress...Kinda hard to describe but picture 2 frames one on top of the other...now cut the center out of the top one and the ends off of the bottom one...Z'ing a frame was a common trick back in the day...the only twist I'm adding is that I can box the rails and build an X brace using model A frame pieces that would other wise be scrap...compared to the flat ladder style construction limitations of a stock A 4 banger frame I'm going to kill a few birds with one stone doing this : aesthetically there's no squarish sharp edged modern tube used and I don't have to sacrifice seating height (ie: poking up or wearing the car) which I was going to be by channeling and I can use a mostly stock subframe......it will be as straight as I can get it I promise
Ok, that makes more sense. Might as well step the frame in the middle if you've got it in 3 sections anyway. With the extra frame rail, you have extra material to make the Z as deep as you want. I'd get that done for the front first. If you go deep enough, you won't ever want for a dropped axle. Simply stacking the rails will bring your front end down near the same as a 4" drop axle will. Couple that with a spring ahead front end like that 39 and you get LOW for CHEAP. To do that you can put a suicide perch on the front crossmember or make one out of channel or tubing ahead of the stock crossmember (this is how I've done it and seen it done on old East Coast Hot Rods). Even the stock Model A axle/spring/Bones, etc will be pretty low and can be made even lower with a reverse eye main, flattened front crossmember, and notching the frame for the spring to clear. I'll add some examples with my AAV8 at the tail of this post. Frame rails are good candidates for K or X members IMO. I have some T rails I still may use for that on mine. Check out how @Robert J. Palmer is using a second frame on his racer build: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...et-6-powered-model-a-stock-car.976419/page-13 OK, so, here is my truck from a while back sitting spring over on a 36 axle. The AA frame is shortened, sectioned in the back, and Z'd frame height (6") with a spring behind 47 Ford rear end. It sat pretty nice but not quite as low and mean as I wanted. Here is is with a dropped 39ish axle and the spring ahead bones on a tubing crossmember flush with the bottom of the rail. My frame is not Z'd in the front (doing so would give me about an inch or 2 of ground clearance) but you can see hopefully what I mean. On your car that front Z could get your front end at least as low as this cheap: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...press-aav8-build.1124353/page-3#post-13861146
Can't exactly tell from your description; but if it is possible, why not take the frame pieces totally apart and build a pair of stock configuration A rails. Then put them together with the crossmembers and at that point start the mods. 45 cut in front of the rear crossmember for a "stacked" Z. Cut at the firewall and behind the front crossmember for a "Bleed sweep" to get the front low with out a dropped axle. Box the rails and add a fabricated X member to suit your engine and trans and you will have a decent frame. Mostly just labor and a little steel for boxing and the X.
Never let 'em tell ya that they're all the same... '28-9 3 rivet holes top of frame rails...'30-'31 crossmbr 3 rivet holes different spots...also note the 2 different sized brake actuator cross shafts and 3 completely different center crossmembers!
Spent quite awhile hammering, dollying and hacking the swiss cheese outta all these subframe chunks I've collected up...should be able to get most of 2 and 2/3 of another...(cue foreshadowing music)
This thread discusses the motor I am probably using in this car https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/look-ma-no-distributor.1204512/ found this '36-8 axle for $100. but passed on it because the bones were broken and the tube had been split from the pumpkin so for sure full of water @RICH B if I did take a chance on it do you have any thoughts on how to convert to juice while retaining the wide 5 drums?
'39-'48 Ford backing plates will bolt up to that axle and those '36 wide 5 rear drums will work; but don't see the reason people want wide 5 wheels on a hot rod. Hard to guess if the drums are usable, tho. Probably worth the chance; even if junk you probably wouldn't lose if you parted it out. FYI; that antique Buick engine is a time and money distraction from getting a real hot rod engine.
They would match my '39 front spindles/drums That is relative I guess...long block was $100. all parts to complete $200. (pick up on hold due to virus) ...stripped core 283(they are the cheapest by far) $250-$600. then I have to find all the missing shit and rebuild it...flathead? fuggedaboutit 40 years later I'm old and falling apart, I raised a family then had a kid late in life... point is: I'm stuck with the bug but may (scratch that..will) never have the money to have a "real hot rod" but maybe something I can piece together and have fun in..Thank you for following along as I dip my toe in... all the advice and suggestions are much appreciated! P.S. there is still a glimmer of hope I may at the end of this whole trip wind up with a car I've always dreamed about...kinda the end game so to speak...but I learned long ago not to count my chickens so for now I'm crossing my fingers waiting for a call...this whole pile of stuff may go back to being the scrap parts that they are....or not stay tuned!
Ya gotta catch one of those ruiners swapping an LS into the place of a good running 283/307/327/350; lotta times they think those old sbc's are obsolete worthless junk. Me and the kid picked up several in the last couple years from free to a couple hundred. Usually complete and sometimes attached to a 'glide or T-350.
Go back and get it, the brakes take juice plates, yes. I would not worry about the TT being detached. That is how I usually find them. Those bones can be fixed; the important parts look intact to me. I am with @RICH B on that Buick engine. You will spend more time and money getting that thing to fit and put power to the wheels than you will save with your $300 engine. Seems "penny wise pound foolish" to me.
Probably but I like learning about and saving old stuff that everyone else writes off......kinda like me * Around here everyone likes to strip a motor before offering it as a "core" I once bought a '62 283 long block for $100. had a cast pg on it everything else stripped, compression was ok and pretty even...sold the PG for $100. thought I was laughing then...4 brl man. $100. rams horns $200. , waterpump $100. , distributor $150., oil pan $75., brackets, pulleys, carb , valve covers, oil canister to spin on conversion etc. etc. etc. etc. etc. after all that cash it would have still been nothing but a low powered heavy boat anchor!....I threw my hat at it and ran! I personally do not like 350's they have no top end and not much bottom end either pour the coals to em and it sounds like a bag of hammers! If I wanted a street rod I'd have picked up either a Buick 455 or a Cad 501...speaking of big blocks those straight eights sound just like one!
Don't get me wrong, it's worth saving, I just think it's going to make your dream of having a hot rod on the road even harder to attain. How long is that thing and do you even have a transmission that will fit?
It is really long and tall...there is a stock trans available...pretty much stem to stern except intake and exhaust which I planned on changing anyway...the motor is actually part of a project that has been hanging in limbo for a long time...when I hear some news I may shift into full time work on it in which case it will make way more sense...if the news is bad the whole project (motor included) will go bye-bye if news is good the roadster stuff will be sold to finance it...can't say much more... stay tuned!
Long is a problem for building a Model A hot rod. I was originally putting a Ford 300 L6 in my T with a Model A frame. Space is an issue unless you go deep into the firewall (your leg room) and or throw the radiator out in front of the front crossmember (which can alter your proportions). Trying to put a lengthy inliner in an A frame with an A body will be tight. With mine I just shifted the body back because it was already small and designed for a smaller frame. I still think you will be better off making this car as simple as you can with as many old Ford parts as you can. I wasted A LOT of time trying to use that inliner before I decided to go with the flathead and a lot of time to this day trying to build something wild on my first go round.
This is why I get all my wide five stuff so cheap. I just don't see the reason anyone would not like them on a hot rod. They are different than the norm, they are very cool looking, you can run them with various hubcaps including wicked cool Lincoln caps, or. . . . No hubcaps at all!
Hey @Nailhead A-V8 , I have a coupe/roadster rear subrail crossmember. It is missing the inner portion but is pretty solid and straight. I have a complete model A front end with wishbone. I also have a couple sets of rear bones. All very cheap for you. Maybe you can come down to New England dragway swap meet at the end of April and load your truck up, let me know
I plan on lengthening the frame and wheel base while doing the modifications to my frame, I have extra lengths of frame rail......there are a couple issues though: the motor is like 4 feet tall!! I'm starting to think even with sidedrafts it's just too damn tall...also p/u of the missing parts is on hold due to C19 restrictions absolutely! I just don't want them on the front only Woah that would be perfect I can't seem to find one around here...a road trip would be awesome! but with the borders closed and travel restrictions on maybe I should look into shipping...I am hoping to have the '57 at least moving under its own power this spring but trips depend on the $*%#ing virus restrictions...not even supposed to travel to the next town by law right now... if you're on the road it has to be for business purposes
Man, I really REALLY think you should not do that. You will be making a never-ending and likely never finishing project for yourself just for the sake of using a "cheap" engine. And you will run the risk of ending up with goofy proportions if you do pull it off. You have plenty of other difficult work ahead of you with trying to build a car out of what you can scrounge on a micro-budget. If you want to build a car around that engine, you should be building a T-Bucket on a ladder frame, not a Model A roadster.
IMO... build a 1;25 scale model of your car, [as close as you can find] get a 1;25 scale 6 banger... with a hot knife [candle] cut, trim and glue the body, frame, firewall and wheelwells to the wheelbase you want...you can also adjust ride hight front and back... just tack it... set it on the tv... in a few days your resting mind will tell you if it is ok... if not, change it...
Also, on the rear gear question you can rotate the drum around once and count the revolutions of the pinion. This'll give you a pretty good idea what ratio you have.
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