Thought i would post a few pics of our new frame build: Our students welded all the joints: Its going under a 31 coupe: Still need to add a K-member and other details: Tubing is 2x3x1/8. Its stretched 4" to accommodate a 283 chevy: Plan is to use a turbo trans and use my late 40s ford banjo: Hope you like the build: skip
thanks: we have some real talent in the class: the tables are "platen tables" they are 5ft each: very heavy and if you can find one for sale used it makes a nice layout table:
Very nice work! I too love the platen table. I especially like the way the rear crossmember is laid into the frame step. That Z is near ideal for that early sixties look with about a 29" rear tire. Keep us posted as they progress.
Thank you, I have four lester 6:00x16s on 35 wire wheels, 4in dropped VCW beam axle, split rods for the front with a posies spring, the rear is spring over axle with posies 29-31R-C spring. I am starting to think about a power glide with my 283: will my ford banjo rear hold up? Any thoughts? Sk
Your students dont pay attention very well, that one piece of steel tubing is CLEARLY marked "DO NOT USE"
Good eye. We have a busy shop and if you do not mark the stuff you want save it will get used for a someone's project and then your left with a 2ft piece. And we forgot to put the seam on the bottom. Sk
I try to tell people all the time, seam goes to the bottom or inside. They dont understand why till its time to paint.
Had a Banjo behind a 283 at one time. The axle keys were the weak link. Always had extra keys with me. Safety hubs are a good idea also. Nice work on the frame.
here are some more pics: how can i get the the ride height down: even with the 3in kick, reversed spring eyes i am way to high: when i put the front together it will bring it up: any thoughts??? sk
You running a stock A spring, or a Speedway one? Speedway springs are taller. Is the rear spring on top or behind the axle?
That frame really looks good. All we made in shop when I was in school were those stupid dust pans. You might find your frame will settle down when you get all the weight on it. My model a frame has no kickup and the first time I let out the clutch it settled down 3-4 inches. My spring sits atop the axle and is a stock model T spring. Maybe if you remove some leaves. Here is how mine sits with no kickup. Don
i have a posies R-c rear spring mounted on top of a 46-48 ford banjo: its the narrower spring for mounting on that style rear end: 16in wheels: in bishops book he takes 3 leaves and puts them under the spring pack: says 3in drop: my front axle is a vintage chassis works {nos from a friend} with a posies front spring: hopfully when more weight is added to the car it will settle down: sk
That is precisely the mount I am using on mine. If you have to you can rearch the spring a little to drop it down, once you have the car all loaded. Don
Thanks for the tip, I like the high boy look but would like a little lower center of gravity. Lots of winding roads up here. Sk
This is my wife's coupe, 4'' dropped axle, mono leaf spring (front) '37 spring with reversed eye (rear). I think your going to need a bigger kick up in the rear if you want to get it lower, especially with that A rear spring
Thanks for the pics. I will mount my spindles and hubs and tires on the front and see what my ride height looks like. I will keep the cut off wheel handy. I will post more as i go along. Again, thanks to all for the help. Sk
Another tip... Take your leaf springs apart, and use just the main leaf for mock up. Makes it easier to compress and simulate finished height.
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