Register now to get rid of these ads!

Model a chop question. Hoping for a quick answer.....

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hitchhiker, Mar 17, 2011.

  1. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,477

    A Rodder
    Member

    I just chopped my 30 coupes roof off. I am now researching the post issue. My problem lies with having a filled roof. I thought about portal power theteal lower posts out to match the uppers but I don't think they will be straight. Any thoughts. Joe
     
  2. chopper cliff
    Joined: Aug 19, 2011
    Posts: 265

    chopper cliff
    Member
    from lodi ca

    I have chopped alot of tops, thats how I got my nickname, I have always removed the top header and removed the amount from the top of the A post, less work and easier to reattach the header and line up the the visor etc. works on A's only but it does work. I usually remove the top hinge and run only the middle and lower hinge, doors line up and adjust better. Cliff
     
  3. Boxcar's 1928
    Joined: Aug 30, 2011
    Posts: 452

    Boxcar's 1928
    Member

    Great stuff in this thread...I'm taking notes!

    chopper cliff...if your pulling off the top of the A post, How far down before you start your cut? and I'm guessing the b piller is open game for where the cut goes..or would directly correspond to the backside cut incl the window. Just trying to follow this.
     
  4. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,477

    A Rodder
    Member

    What about the fact that I have a filled in roof, I cannot narrow to header at this point. I already took the four inches out of the middle
     
  5. speedyg948
    Joined: May 3, 2008
    Posts: 163

    speedyg948
    Member

    chopped the top on my model A tudor a bunch of years ago... i think your problem stems from it not being properly braced when it was cut... i would suggest vertical cuts on each pillar(one on the front of the pillar and one in the door jam) you could then open each cut accordingly, then use small tack welds around each pillar as you line up each section.. you may also need to make cuts in the windshield area and outside of the pillar to get it to line up..work slowly, take your time and dont get discouraged! i also tacked the doors to the body and braced the crap out of it... i had no issues with the top of the windshield opening being wider then the bottom.... maybe beginers luck?
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2011
  6. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,477

    A Rodder
    Member

    I measured it before I cut it. It was wider. Any other thoughts?
     
  7. ModelEh1931
    Joined: Oct 28, 2009
    Posts: 90

    ModelEh1931
    Member

    I braced the top portion of the roof and the body...when I made the cut, seemed like the A-pillars sprung inward...problem may have been that the top was filled when I cut it (filler has since been removed).....To get it back I also used the tip from Tex Smith, using a body jack....whether its the proper way to do it, not totally sure, as it may put stress back in...but they only had to be moved slightly outward.

    Another option I've heard of is to cut a slice into the dash rail support...push the pillars out and re-weld.

    After this, my first chop...there are deffinetly some things I would do differently if I had to do it again...but it did turn out pretty good.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,477

    A Rodder
    Member



    Once you powered them out, did the upper half match up with the m to make a straight line or did they bow in in the center?
     
  9. ModelEh1931
    Joined: Oct 28, 2009
    Posts: 90

    ModelEh1931
    Member


    They matched up quite nicely, not perfect but pretty damn good. I had to pie cut the pillar to get the different widths to match up, but not a big deal.

    I will snap some pics of what they look like now and post them.

    I did a lot of research before on how and where to cut before I dove in....Shitty thing is when I cut it, I took the 4" section from the center all the way around like most people do....wasn't until later that I found out all the pros cut it lower all the way around...so the chop is less noticeable and easier to finish.
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2011
  10. ModelEh1931
    Joined: Oct 28, 2009
    Posts: 90

    ModelEh1931
    Member

    Here are some pics....I'm most likely going to use lead as filler in the A pillars to add some strength.
     

    Attached Files:

  11. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,477

    A Rodder
    Member

    That looks pretty good, I will have a closer look at it tomorrow when I am back at the shop. Did you have any issues with the doors binding when opening and closing? I am assuming at some point the three hinge pin centers are not lined up perfectly now, but maybe its off small enough it doesn't matter. Thank you for some pics.

    Did you line up the posts so the track for the glass is straight and make everything go inline with that? Or line up the outside edge and then pie cut everything else?
     
  12. resqd37Zep
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,217

    resqd37Zep
    Member
    from Nor Cal

  13. ModelEh1931
    Joined: Oct 28, 2009
    Posts: 90

    ModelEh1931
    Member

    I replaced all of the hinges, doors do not bind, open and close nicely, gaps are pretty nice. The pins take a slight bit of elbow grease to get in, but after that, its all good. I lined up the outside edges and then pie cut...the chop on the doors turned out very nice.
     
  14. chopper cliff
    Joined: Aug 19, 2011
    Posts: 265

    chopper cliff
    Member
    from lodi ca

    How far are you going to cut? after the header is removed you take the amount off the top of the a piller, basically you are moving the header down the piller. as far as b piller is concerned, you cut off the skin around the b post,1 cut carfully, make your1/4 window cuts, I use what I call a step cut where the flat of the 1/4 window stops at the upper part of windowto the center of the where the top makes it's turn to the back window, make a vertical cut to where the center the of back window, remove the lid cut off the top of b post to where you want. basically you remove the material so the vertical cut is still there, use as alignmentset the top back on. this hard to explain, I could try to get pic's of the last A coupe I cut. But I need to get my geek son to do this, let me know Cliff
     
  15. chopper cliff
    Joined: Aug 19, 2011
    Posts: 265

    chopper cliff
    Member
    from lodi ca

    Now that you are confused, it takes longer to chop 1 proper than the books will tell you. I can get pics of my last cut and the finished results. can't remember how many A's Ive cut. once you understand my method, you will understand why i do it this way. Cliff
     
  16. chopper cliff
    Joined: Aug 19, 2011
    Posts: 265

    chopper cliff
    Member
    from lodi ca

    See my last 2 posts, still trying to figure out how to use this site, on 28's there is another way for the 2 strips between the 1/4 windows and back window
     
  17. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,477

    A Rodder
    Member

    Since my roof is filled I can't narrow it at the top.


    BUT, I just got to the shop, I sawzalled the ends of the dash rails and relieved the pressure. They,with vise grips came out about 3/16 on each side. The window tracks are now inline and the pillera themselves will not have a bow in them.

    I have a porta power but thought if I bent them out at the base of the post the end result would be less than satisfying.
     
  18. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,477

    A Rodder
    Member

    Hitchhiker, I certainly didn't mean to hijack your thread, just thought it was all relevant.
     
  19. No worries man, some good info here.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.