The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hitchhiker, Mar 17, 2011.
I just chopped my 30 coupes roof off. I am now researching the post issue. My problem lies with having a filled roof. I thought about portal power theteal lower posts out to match the uppers but I don't think they will be straight. Any thoughts. Joe
I have chopped alot of tops, thats how I got my nickname, I have always removed the top header and removed the amount from the top of the A post, less work and easier to reattach the header and line up the the visor etc. works on A's only but it does work. I usually remove the top hinge and run only the middle and lower hinge, doors line up and adjust better. Cliff
Great stuff in this thread...I'm taking notes!
chopper cliff...if your pulling off the top of the A post, How far down before you start your cut? and I'm guessing the b piller is open game for where the cut goes..or would directly correspond to the backside cut incl the window. Just trying to follow this.
What about the fact that I have a filled in roof, I cannot narrow to header at this point. I already took the four inches out of the middle
chopped the top on my model A tudor a bunch of years ago... i think your problem stems from it not being properly braced when it was cut... i would suggest vertical cuts on each pillar(one on the front of the pillar and one in the door jam) you could then open each cut accordingly, then use small tack welds around each pillar as you line up each section.. you may also need to make cuts in the windshield area and outside of the pillar to get it to line up..work slowly, take your time and dont get discouraged! i also tacked the doors to the body and braced the crap out of it... i had no issues with the top of the windshield opening being wider then the bottom.... maybe beginers luck?
I measured it before I cut it. It was wider. Any other thoughts?
I braced the top portion of the roof and the body...when I made the cut, seemed like the A-pillars sprung inward...problem may have been that the top was filled when I cut it (filler has since been removed).....To get it back I also used the tip from Tex Smith, using a body jack....whether its the proper way to do it, not totally sure, as it may put stress back in...but they only had to be moved slightly outward.
Another option I've heard of is to cut a slice into the dash rail support...push the pillars out and re-weld.
After this, my first chop...there are deffinetly some things I would do differently if I had to do it again...but it did turn out pretty good.
Once you powered them out, did the upper half match up with the m to make a straight line or did they bow in in the center?
They matched up quite nicely, not perfect but pretty damn good. I had to pie cut the pillar to get the different widths to match up, but not a big deal.
I will snap some pics of what they look like now and post them.
I did a lot of research before on how and where to cut before I dove in....Shitty thing is when I cut it, I took the 4" section from the center all the way around like most people do....wasn't until later that I found out all the pros cut it lower all the way around...so the chop is less noticeable and easier to finish.
Here are some pics....I'm most likely going to use lead as filler in the A pillars to add some strength.
That looks pretty good, I will have a closer look at it tomorrow when I am back at the shop. Did you have any issues with the doors binding when opening and closing? I am assuming at some point the three hinge pin centers are not lined up perfectly now, but maybe its off small enough it doesn't matter. Thank you for some pics.
Did you line up the posts so the track for the glass is straight and make everything go inline with that? Or line up the outside edge and then pie cut everything else?
This guy might be able to help you out.
Hot Rods I chopped it!!! Model A coupe, 5 inches off the top! (http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=605177)
I replaced all of the hinges, doors do not bind, open and close nicely, gaps are pretty nice. The pins take a slight bit of elbow grease to get in, but after that, its all good. I lined up the outside edges and then pie cut...the chop on the doors turned out very nice.
How far are you going to cut? after the header is removed you take the amount off the top of the a piller, basically you are moving the header down the piller. as far as b piller is concerned, you cut off the skin around the b post,1 cut carfully, make your1/4 window cuts, I use what I call a step cut where the flat of the 1/4 window stops at the upper part of windowto the center of the where the top makes it's turn to the back window, make a vertical cut to where the center the of back window, remove the lid cut off the top of b post to where you want. basically you remove the material so the vertical cut is still there, use as alignmentset the top back on. this hard to explain, I could try to get pic's of the last A coupe I cut. But I need to get my geek son to do this, let me know Cliff
Now that you are confused, it takes longer to chop 1 proper than the books will tell you. I can get pics of my last cut and the finished results. can't remember how many A's Ive cut. once you understand my method, you will understand why i do it this way. Cliff
See my last 2 posts, still trying to figure out how to use this site, on 28's there is another way for the 2 strips between the 1/4 windows and back window
Since my roof is filled I can't narrow it at the top.
BUT, I just got to the shop, I sawzalled the ends of the dash rails and relieved the pressure. They,with vise grips came out about 3/16 on each side. The window tracks are now inline and the pillera themselves will not have a bow in them.
I have a porta power but thought if I bent them out at the base of the post the end result would be less than satisfying.
Hitchhiker, I certainly didn't mean to hijack your thread, just thought it was all relevant.
No worries man, some good info here.
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