Hot Rods Model A body on ‘32 chassis WITH FENDERS- Help!

That # translates to a 4 cyl. (Model B) built in Oct. 1932

 

Thanks!

 

OK - enough about the VIN - back the chassis and suspension. This is a photo of the chassis before builder disassembled it...


You can see the home-built cross members and attachment points for the split wishbones front and rear. What I'm hearing is there are suggestions to add an aftermarket 'x-member' to the frame and move the rear wishbones toward to centerline of the car. Is that correct?

 

Texas .....is a posession state, and I wouldn't be the guy trying to forge past the Texas Department of Public Safety in my lifetime. I like showering alone, and have dropped the soap, solo. So there's that.

 

You can delete just that one photo, I probably would just cause.

 

Great reference shot...my knowledge is limited here but that garage built rear crossmember looks stout enough...From what I gather the rear bones can be structurally fabbed into ladder bars taking away structural weakness along the lines of what @Blues4U posted Moving the fwd attach points toward center to gain the original geometry seems advised. Remember these other crude looking crossbars are typical and if they are deemed worthy blast and paint.

Remember your Hotrod may have seen Jalopy track duty too you never know Angle and bar was ready and standard issue...I note your springs are reworked for look and function...

 

What photo are you referring to? I don't remember any photo...

 

Looking at the Frame photo I say yes, add some support to it. What's left of the stock 32 center cross member is doing nothing at all except holding the rails apart. There is no lateral or diagonal support coming from it. The one with the Trans mount and rear rods mounted on it is also doing very little Chassis support. A K member like the full stock 32 unit was a move forward for Henry but it only lasted one year before he went to the X member and finally had a chassis that would do a good job with the V-8 motors. Now would be a grate time to move the Chassis into the 30's and make the Roadster handle a fair amount better. This is a 36 X graphed into a Model A chassis.

Simple, effective, and Vintage. There are several ways to use these as well and running a latter Trans behind the SBC. Mounting the 39 or 40 pedal units is just nutz and boltz. Big advantage, Easy peasy.

 

The one of just a Vin numbers.

 

pretty sure he knows..

 

now would be the time to do it. Here is the chassis back from blasting...

 

Could they just use steel c channel and bore some lightening holes notch and bend accordingly and add center tie in supports for bones, trans...even pedals and master cylinder if hanging pedals are decided against...as that x member will need to be cut up in the torque tube area to support modern trans?

How easy are these x members to find these days as you are cannibalizing a frame to get it...I will say that looks great as did the video earlier on were they modded the x member of a later Ford chassis was it 40 something?

 

Hey that's progress the front wishbone supports look fairly stout as well...I see your exhaust manifold were white...was the steering arm chrome too?

It is surprising to see some of the deterioration of the chrome despite being stored indoors for 30 plus years.

 

Here's what I did for my central x-member. Made up with 1" square tubing and all the pieces cut with a hacksaw because of the first magazine feature back in 1973 of the Pete and Jake coupes. Jake's has a similar tube setup. In retrospect, I should have made the gap for my "ladder rungs" larger so that I could run my exhaust between them. The two sides are bolted together with my transmission mount. Didn't have to box my frame because it is made up with 2x6" rectangular tube. It don't flex. Didn't use a commercially made piece because I'm cheap and just made things up as I went. No clear plan, just make a mirror image for the other side.

 

Step boxed with a 40 X member widened in the center and I used the 40 pedals my car has 3 pedals

 

Terry - did you scavenge that from another frame, or buy it aftermarket?

 

https://chassisengineeringinc.com/product/at-2032-cross-rails-for-1932-ford/
I used these for my sbc/700r4 drive line, but don't think they are made anymore. They had excellent brake pedal mounts for that X member too. '40 Ford rear crossmember flattened.

 

Those X members used by Big Deuce are still available. Use his link. It takes you to the new Chassis Engineering site owned by Heidt's.

On the original rear crossmember, the spring pack U bolts appear to be welded to crossmember. I would prefer them to not be welded in case one would strip or break, would be easier to replace with the body installed.

Phil

 

I have one of the C.E. X members in my Chassis for the Hemi Roadster. I like it! You should know if your going that route and decide to go with Brake pedal under the Floor be sure to get there mount unit. The X legs them self run at a different angles than the Ford unit and if you make Ford pedals mount to it they don't swing parallel to frame center line. Not good with a stick shift.

 

Mine was gave to me from a street rodder who used 1x2 tubing for his X member but I had to open it up so my son broke some 3/16'' channels and the side plates that tie it together he also made for me the rear of the center is 1/4'' and my ladder bar tabs are too. My frame had some pits not to bad so I decided to use 1/4'' boxing plates stepped in 3/8'' then stitch mig welded move around when you weld run about 2 to 3 inches at a time after its tacked out skip around . If you run good welds on a step box clean up is easy my stock 32 rear crossmember was pancaked that does not use Miss Buttersworth !! You cut reliefs and flatten it out to lower the rear with a stock spring You could use a trimmed crossmember in the rear and use a 40 front spring in the rear . I believe that's what you have now . Model A front crossmember will lower the front of your car you only have to do a little trimming . If you keep that Hurst front mount they were designed for mid mount transmission people use tail shaft mounts . I would use a steel scatter shield if I ran a manual transmission Roy Brizzio had a neat cable set up for the clutch and use Chassis Engineering style biscuit's because those China Bills are junk

 

Trying to stay era correct in this build Boxing this frame would be the last thing I would do. It also isn't necessary even with a healthy small block. I've found it to be very over rated. Heck, even my Hemi chassis isn't boxed. Ya, I know; I don't think like most of ya.

 

A vintage Ford x member does look pretty spiffy in there I must agree...time to hit the vintage junkyards...Riff I take it Texas is a dry state?

 

Hamber @mcbay has this for sale...price seems fair...
It's an old ad but worth a follow up.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/35-40-frame-full-x-member.1093734/
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Yes sir I have a 347 that came out of 11 second mustang with a 5 speed


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No sir-Texas regularly gets its drink on...


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When you get back to the chassis there is something you should know if you use old ford parts to build your frame 32 rear cross members are curved for the curved rear spring so if you use the rear spring you have in a 32 style rear crossmember check your spring in it . I am not being a know it all but the local Rod God that owns 12 32 fords did not know they are curved !! that's if you look from the top down

 

A '40 Ford front spring will fit in a stock '32 rear crossmember without having to grind either the spring or the crossmember. Most say its a better riding spring too.

 

To maintain the ride height you had before disassembly, I would use a flattened crossmember or a tube one. A stock '32 rear cross will keep the ass end up in the air a bit. Socal speed has these to offer....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SO-CAL-SPE...BER-HOT-ROD-STREET-FRAME-SPRING-/392077832717

 

Sorry-I’m trying to keep up. Are you all saying the rear cross member set up we have now is not sufficient? I was only talking about adding an x member in the mid section.


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