Projects Model a banger sport coupe to 8BA

So about a month ago, my 51 F1 kissed a concrete barrier and I decided to sell it and start a new project rather than doing the body work again. So I picked up a running chassis in Escondido and brought it home. 1928 chassis with what appears to be a 1929 stock 4 cylinder.

I first decided to put some 16" steel wheels on it off a '40 Ford, then flush the cooling system to get the little spiders and loose rust out of it. A quick trip to home depot and I had myself a flush kit. I made a block off block out of a piece of hardwood, hooked up the hoses and let her flush out the crud. I then put a couple gallons of evaporust through it, let it sit for a couple days by draining and filtering it, then adding back in, drained the used evaporust into a bucket so I can throw rusty tools in it, then flushed it all out.


Then realized the block off plate was leaking too much so I put an old water pump on it. Heres a shot of the evaporust in it. With the clear hoses I could watch it turn more and more brown from the rust.

Only made a small mess..... ok a big mess.

 

Picked up a Tudor body for a good price on Saturday.

 

I've since bought a complete frontend with juice brakes that I cleaned up on Saturday afternoon, and will soon bolt that underneath it. My plan is to put a higher compression head on it, downdraft carb, Model B distributor with electronic ignition, alternator, and a synchro trans. Probably going to box the frame with (hopefully) dimpled plates. I don't plan on chopping it, but I am going to bring the body back to life, and paint it gloss black with a black top.

 

Remember that the '40 wheels on mechanical brake drums NEED AN ADAPTER or they might come off. See: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/40-ford-wheels-on-a-model-a.750368/#post-8330045

Charlie Stephens

 

I'm glad to see you using the banger. The flush kit looks like some sex toy you dreamed up. lol I'll be following this one for ideas on my '31 banger coupe.

 

Charlie, I read a lot of the juice brake conversions here on the forum. I'm aware of the possible dangers of poor workmanship. I learned the hard way quite a few times... If it looks like I'm doing something unsafe during this build, please correct me! I'm not afraid of constructive criticism. Thanks for looking out man!
Kevin

 

That coupe looks great oldwood. Solid start to a rad little car. The flush kit was getting some glares from the ladies at Home Depot. hahah

 

Sounds like a good plan to me. Do you know which head, downdraft carb etc you intend using??

 

Really like the 'big picture' of your project, but I question the desire to box the frame; not really a necessity with a (relatively) low power banger or early flathead. I'd also strongly recommend against an alternator for reasons of both form and function; an alternator really is an eyesore on a traditional rod AND the higher belt tension required by it plays hell on the water pump...besides, the A generator is stout, dependable, and easy to service.

Ditto for wanting to use the B distributor with electronic ignition...pointless (no pun intended). The advantage of the B is centrifugal advance - you can get this with an electronic conversion of the A distributor, save the Bs for us non-electronic guys if you must go that direction.

Personally I prefer points from the diagnostic/fix it myself standpoint. With points ignition it's easy to check the gap, surface of the contacts, test the condenser, and re-gap, resurface, repair, and replace as-needed. No so much with electronic modules...what do you do if you're on a road trip and the module craps out? Most people I know with electronic ignition conversions carry a spare points distributor as a spare...ironic ain't it?

Just something to think about. These motors are lots of fun...here's my (in-process) Winfield-equipped Model A (with rebuilt B distributor & 1940's hi-speed conversion cap/rotor);

 

I'm not sure which head to run yet. Probably a 5.5-1 or a 6-1 ratio. 12v seems easier to get parts on the road (including a jumpstart). I've had electronic ignitions in my cars before and as long as they are getting between 11.8-12.8 volts I haven't had a problem with any of them burning out. But, I may still run 6v. It's the planning that's the most difficult for me.

 

i fought the 6 or twelve volt thing too, maybe i was overthinking its 12v for me. i wouldn't waste much time boxing anything, even with a flathead v8 its unnecessary. thats more of a big horse 60's thing. I've got a similar project in the works.

 

Good to see one more Tudor being saved, thumbs up!

 

Looks like a good start to a nice little ride. Don't sweat the 6v too much. You don't need jumper cables,
just a crank , no second car needed for a jump start

 

My late Grandma in Australia actually broke her arm by crank-starting her Model T. Apparently it backfired and blam! Broken humorous bone. That was sometime in the 40's. My mom told me about it.

 

If you don't have the spark advanced, it usually not an issue. My car has been 6v since 31' with no issues. I've had it for like 3 with no issues. Another trick is you cup the crank in your hand you don't grip it. I'll bet your Grandma didn't find that too humorous !!
There's one of those Snyder's head on the Fordbarn right now, Cheap!!!

 

Thanks for lookin out Tiny!!! Just bought that head!!! Can't wait to bolt that puppy onto my little banger!

 

I put a c head on my a and it went slower but sounded way better we ran 22 seconds in the 1/4 mi....lol

 

Your welcome. Always happy to help a guy out

 

ho yea I think the water pump is better on the c
you sold your truck wrecked? bad?

 

Yes, I sold it with the damage to the front clip and passenger side fender. No frame damage but twisted the clip pretty good. More than my hammer and dolly skills can fix. I sold it with a clip that I got off a 51 F2 so that way, whoever got it, has a headstart. I honestly didn't want to do the body work over again and still have to do the suspension front and rear. I saw the opportunity to finally get a Model A and I took it. I've always wanted one since I was a kid. Now I'm a proud owner!

 

Did a little cleaning today. Prepping everything for the snyders high compression head, downdraft weber carb, Wagner alternator and B distributor.
How many springs and which ones can I take out to lower the front end? I bought a complete frontend with juice brakes for a screamin deal.

 

Started taking the banger apart. The head could not have came off easier. Removed the bolts, put the plugs back in, turned it over and it popped. Stood on top of it and lifted that heavy sucker right off. Now to clean the water jackets and vacuum the crud out of there. Cylinders look nice and clean with no scoring.

 

Love the build man..

 

Great thread, keep the posts coming!

 

The delivery guys were very kind to hook me up on a Friday! Came home to discover 3 boxes sitting at my door. Going to be a productive weekend...hopefully.

 

I'm in

 

Well shit. I broke 4, got 10 out. Time to pull the welder out.

 

If all else fails there is Jerry's Broken Drill and Tap Removal in Santa Ana, (714) 836-6824. Don't ask me how I know.

Charlie Stephens

 

Yep, going to give them a call. @Charlie Stephens How much does it cost to remove the broken bolts? Can I bring the car or do I have to pull the engine? I was unable to get my welder to stick to the studs. It welds just fine to the washer/nut but just snaps right off the second I turn it. Tried PB blaster, wax, heat, cussing, prayers and voodoo. No luck. Ive never been successful in trying to drill out broken bolts so I'd prefer a pro handle this one for me.

 

Your are going to have to call them. It has been years since I used them. They are one of the advertisers in our local Early Ford V8 Club chapter and I haven't heard any complaints.

Charlie Stephens