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Projects Model A 4-Banger - What Can I Expect

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by lake_harley, Oct 15, 2017.

  1. lake_harley
    Joined: Jun 4, 2017
    Posts: 696

    lake_harley
    Member

    Sheesh, oldsman41! When I almost think I've made up my mind, here you come along with a very valid point.

    FWIW....I did make a wish list of the parts I would like to include if I did the A engine, and it came up to about $1900, rather than my earlier total of $1200-1500. I will admit though, some of the items were wants, not needs. That of course didn't include any machine work, or a stronger clutch that's been mentioned a time or two.

    Deliberation continues......

    Lynn
     
  2. Binger
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,607

    Binger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from wyoming

    @manyolcars It doesn't get into the seat but it came too close. I had to bend the shifter a bit to get it to work. I also moved my seat back 6". Fabbing a new shift lever would be necessary for a stock seat. A jeep T-5 is a bit shorter than the S-10.


    brake handle 2.jpg floor boards.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2017
    Jet96 likes this.
  3. 55styleliner
    Joined: May 11, 2015
    Posts: 497

    55styleliner
    Member

    I went the Flathead V8 route and do not regret it! I can cruise at 70 all day long!

    IMG_0268.JPG
     
    barrnone50, ROCKER77, Adam.L and 2 others like this.
  4. lake_harley
    Joined: Jun 4, 2017
    Posts: 696

    lake_harley
    Member

    55styleliner...it appears the firewall is stock and you still fit what appears to me to be a later V8 (8BA?) in place without cutting/notching it? I had heard that they are a tough fit without some creativity on the water pumps and fan arrangement.

    I'm also curious what kind of transmission and rearend you have in the P.U.?

    Please excuse you simpleton questions. Even though I've been a gearhead all of my adult life, I'm new to Model A stuff.

    Just when I think I made up my mind, I find myself flip-flopping on what direction, driveline-wise, to take my '31.

    Thanks.

    Lynn
     
  5. Schwalms in PA does a lot of model A motors in various styles. Insert Bearings etc. They have prices on their website for motor builds.
     
  6. lake_harley
    Joined: Jun 4, 2017
    Posts: 696

    lake_harley
    Member

    While I've been working on some things on the T roadster that never quite got "finished" I have flip-flopped countless times on what direction to take my Model A Coupe. The flavor of the day I'm leaning toward today is retaining the Model A engine and doing some mild modifications. I just bought cast iron head that has raised lettering "Model A" on it. A bit of research shows it to be an aftermarket copy of the "C" or "police" head of 5.2:1 compression ratio. Looking at some dyno test run reports it appears quite a bit can be accomplished to bump the HP by increasing compression (got that somewhat covered), making it breath better with either a larger carb and opened up manifold or perhaps twin carbs, and a better flowing exhaust. An improved distributor with mechanical advance would also be in my sights. Here's where I found the dyno sheets http://www.modelaparts.net/dynosheets.htm/dynosheets.html

    I think the engine in the car is mechanically sound, but I'd do some checking there before proceeding in any way. One reason I'm considering this approach is that it's just mostly bolt-on mods, not getting deep into the engine (and spending a boat load of money).

    Coupled with a 84-87 F150 3-speed w/OD transmission I'm thinking it would work decently for moderate "highway" speeds as others have suggested. I give out a hearty "Thank You" to manyolcars for the transmission suggestion. I just re-read your adapting/conversion thread and it seems quite do-able for me.

    Opinions, thoughts, suggestions?

    Lynn
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2017
  7. waxhead
    Joined: May 11, 2013
    Posts: 1,070

    waxhead
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from West Oz

    Sounds like a solid plan to me.
     
  8. Manager
    Joined: Mar 22, 2014
    Posts: 234

    Manager
    Member

    Just drive the banger till it dies and dump it. That's my plan. Great fun in the mean time but you can dump a shitload of money into a old shitbox real quick when you catch the banger virus.Zip of the price to put a SBC and rod chassis in when the engine is done.
     
  9. modified1927
    Joined: Nov 22, 2007
    Posts: 111

    modified1927
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have a 32 BB flatbed with 5.10 rear gears, So at 40 MPH it sounds like the world is going to end, Its been on the road since about 95, but not far from home. I have a couple of 153's chevy's in the barn and really toying with the idea of a swap. to make it more road friendly. A ford F350 rear looks to fit, then just an old Saginaw Vega 4spd with 3.50 first gear will still let it be a truck. I think I can get 3.86 gears for the rear. Any thoughts on this? I am thinking of keeping the mechanical brakes and adapting them to the new rear. Just because they work OK and look right.
    any thoughts on this 100_3305.JPG
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2017
    dutch deuce likes this.
  10. jerseyboy
    Joined: Jul 17, 2006
    Posts: 634

    jerseyboy
    Member

  11. Winfield head cam and carb(s) will do the trick.
     
  12. modified1927
    Joined: Nov 22, 2007
    Posts: 111

    modified1927
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I am sure it would, but again how many main bearings???, and if it would wind I would be the one to wind it. I would hate to break it. From what I'm looking at the OEM parts will fit on an oversize pallet
     
  13. "Bangers" are cool and they are a lot of fun but if you are considering a high revving banger, consider this... babbit does not like high rpm's! Inserts are the only way to go!!
    I went with a mostly stock engine in mine, with the other mods it will cruise 60 - 65 comfortably. It was designed to drive between 40 and 50 mph, keep that in mind.
     
  14. modified1927
    Joined: Nov 22, 2007
    Posts: 111

    modified1927
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thank you, I am of the same reasoning, I have a few 153 chevys with inserts, use 283 pistons and rods, SBC lifters and Big block rockers. It should be a budget build. I live in the Valley here in California and driving anywhere is up hill, to L.A., Oakland, Reno & Tahoe, or Vegas. So really not looking to have to "baby" it, I want to at least keep up with traffic, even with the 4 Cyl. I have a few Mercruiser aluminum covers and think I will mill off the names and have them engraved with something that sounds classic, but doesn't step on anyone toes. (instead of Roof or Crager, I'm thinking Root or Fryer, something like that will be fun to just stand back and listen with the hood open).
     
  15. haileyp1014
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 913

    haileyp1014
    Member
    from so cal

    Banger motors are cute and nostalgic. But if you grab a ohv head for it that's $6000 plus machine work of probably $5,000 plus misc parts.thats a lot of money that could be spent better going another direction
     
  16. PoRodder
    Joined: Sep 28, 2014
    Posts: 90

    PoRodder
    Member
    from St. Louis

    Turbocharge it? May work for a 4 banger, too.
     
  17. Juggler
    Joined: Aug 20, 2010
    Posts: 77

    Juggler
    Member

    Supercharged and ohv

     
    Jet96, Binger, Dannerr and 1 other person like this.
  18. briphaeton
    Joined: Dec 29, 2011
    Posts: 36

    briphaeton
    Member
    from cal

    Hey lake_harley
    I was also interested in the Ansen Brakes. The fronts looks easy & clean enough to do but the rears look like you have to eliminate the emergency brake and come up with another way than the mechanical system. I found the wheel cylinders on Rock Auto.
    Brian
     

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