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Minimum cylinder wall thickness?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by lucky13, Dec 24, 2010.

  1. lucky13
    Joined: Feb 7, 2003
    Posts: 121

    lucky13
    Member

    I just recieved my standard bore 56 (poly) 331 back from being sonic checked. The lowest number that I have is .194" on a non thrust side down low. I was hoping to take this block out to standard 354 specs (.125 over). Most of my other numbers are in the .250 range. I am looking to make a solid 500-550hp with a blower, in my Model A coupe. I have 1 hole that needs to be sleeved, and I was hoping on gaining some extra cubes also. So what should I be looking for in minimum thickness? If I can ever figure out my scanner, I'll post the sheet on it. I figured that since I work in a machine shop, all it would cost me is time. I searched for a bit on this question and didn't really come up with any concrete numbers. If this has been convered a bunch I am sorry. Thanks in advance


    Brian
     
  2. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,726

    George
    Member

    When(if?) you get an answer, post it in the Hemi Tech Index. Personaly if I was putting a blower on it I'd go for the thickest walls I can get. Unless your racing, you probaly wouldn't notice a few cubes on a blower motor.
     
  3. GOATROPER02
    Joined: Mar 22, 2006
    Posts: 2,059

    GOATROPER02
    Member
    from OHIO

    As George said Id leave it thick,

    .170 is about a min but I like to see over .200

    Tony
     
  4. lucky13
    Joined: Feb 7, 2003
    Posts: 121

    lucky13
    Member

    Thanks for the replies. I guess I was just being greedy in wanting the extra cubes. The blower will more than make up for it. That'll leave some extra meat for another rebuild or 2 also, if anything goes wrong. Thanks for the slap to wake me up!!
     

  5. BigBlockMopar
    Joined: Feb 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,361

    BigBlockMopar
    Member

    You could decide on a partial concrete fill in the block, but that might mean you need even more cooling system upgrades later on.
    And yes, you would be wasting the block for future rebuilds when going for most cubes.
     
  6. lucky13
    Joined: Feb 7, 2003
    Posts: 121

    lucky13
    Member

    That was gonna be another question later on down the road a bit. I was thinking about doing the partial fill on this block. I have ran a partial fill on the street with an OT combo before. I never had any problems with that car, and neither did the next owner.
     
  7. BigBlockMopar
    Joined: Feb 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,361

    BigBlockMopar
    Member

    I'm building a 2.5" filled RB Chrysler stroker motor currently which will be supercharged by a 8/71 blower. I've never driven a blown filled motor on the street before so I'm hoping it will be doing fine in the temperature department.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. lucky13
    Joined: Feb 7, 2003
    Posts: 121

    lucky13
    Member

    My OT car ran a nitroused SBC, half filled on the street mainly. I never had any issues, but I had a good sized aluminum radiator and twin elec fans. So as long as the cooling system is up to snuff, shouldn't have any issues
     
  9. I have had two filled running for awhile. They are not street but do get a lot of constant running. They seem to run as cool as non-filled. Sometimes I think cooler or tamer but I am not sure why i think that yet. . Both are BB Mopars. One is a B and one an RB. The reason i believe they work good is because there is no fire down there anyway. Even with a stroker at the bottom of the hole the fire would be nothing so cooling down there because the piston occupies that space and heating is not a problem. Might hurt the coolant volume a bit but most of us increase that anyway as a matter of course with a bigger rad and add such things as a better pump.
    I was surprised that cooling in both these engines was such a non-issue.
    Both run constant speed electric water pumps too. I think on a short fill you will have nothing to worry about.
    Don
     

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