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Projects Mild custom '51 Pontiac Chieftain

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by PhilA, Nov 4, 2019.

  1. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    Also, remind me if I forget, I need to attach the antenna ground cable to the common ground point. The wire is just hanging off right now.
    I got fed up with wires so went off and had a few days' break; got a bug up my ass about something that wasn't right on the car and had to go fix it.
    Also, remember the 60-64 domestic harmony vehicle? That didn't happen, but I did trade in the OT daily against a new vehicle, which has made the wife happy. Particularly as it has 3.85 times the power and 2.15 times the torque the Chief does.
     
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  2. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    I did the antenna ground up.

    I pulled the door card off the driver's door. It's horrible. I've been advised to use the dimpled plastic shower sheet from Lowe's-it's the correct thickness, it cuts easily and the damp doesn't affect it.
    20200630_163302.jpg
    I removed the handle and dismantled the lock.
    20200630_163534.jpg
    The lock itself is the same as the trunk. However, I did not have enough combination pieces in common to key either alike so I'll just have 3 keys.
    20200630_163954.jpg
    Cut a key to fit the lock, reassembled it but need a new rubber o-ring to space the position of the button correctly for the lock to engage.
    I'll pull the passenger side door card off too, I need to remove the rod for the lock pin and copy it. The driver's side one is missing.
    20200630_175903_1.gif
    Passenger side jams, needs lubrication but it does lock. Driver's side clunks nicely locked.

    Net result is I have a full set of working keys for all the locks on the car now. That makes me happier than I was. Total outlay $9.

    Phil
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2020
  3. Seon
    Joined: May 26, 2005
    Posts: 334

    Seon
    Member

    What a great find. Lots of love putting her back to life. Grats.
     
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  4. Amazing stuff Phil. You have more patience and greater tenacity than I my friend.:)
     
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  5. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    I did it because I needed keys. Today was a no-car-work day. Tomorrow I may make it to the hardware store and buy the pieces I need.
     
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  6. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 4,982

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Phil", we don't need "Superman" any more ever since you showed up.
     
  7. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    I was wrong. I squeezed in half an hour tonight. Went raid the closet for a plastic coat hanger with a metal hanging hook because to my calibrated eyeball it looked about the right diameter and length to make a lock pin rod.

    20200701_205102.jpg
    So I heated and bent it up into shape.

    20200701_205157.jpg
    Stripped a piece of wire insulation and shoved it over the end to bring the diameter up a bit.

    20200701_205414.jpg
    Cleaned up the pin and pushed it on. Unlocked...

    20200701_205418.jpg
    ...and locked.

    I need to glue the plastic to the rod to stop it shifting but that'll work.

    Phil
     
  8. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    I refuse to wear my underwear outside my pants and I really don't have the hair or the physique for it. His job is safe!
     
  9. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    Next big task in that door is to see why the window doesn't move and why it's cracked. It's etched 2004 so it's been replaced before.
    My guess is someone slammed the door a bit hard because the cracks aren't in the same place.
    Also why the rear door has broken glass too. That one cracked in the same line so no telling. Maybe someone tried to break in. I'm sure there's easier ways to get in...
     
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  10. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 6,140

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    Most common cause for cracked, broken door glasses on '30s - '50s GM cars and trucks is worn out or completely missing channel. It also occurs when the channel is replaced using screws that aren't countersunk. Any metal touching the glass will do damage sooner or later.
     
  11. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    The channels are certainly not in good shape. The cracks are in the center of the glass, vertical, both windows.

    I'm guessing the lift arm puts stress on the base of the glass in the center, and if the glass gets hung up, heave on the handle and CRAK?
     
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  12. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    Yeah, put the handle properly on and tried to crank it. The channel moves on the forward side and the glad stays put while I can wind the handle half a turn until it gets stuck.

    I think I can safely say the window mechanism on this side is fubar.
     
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  13. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 6,140

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    Once you get in there & find what fell apart, it'll be no problem. Everything inside can be repaired.
     
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  14. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    I think the bottom of the window channels are made from rust and thin air.
     
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  15. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 1,818

    goldmountain

    Get the glass shop to make new side windows in tempered glass. They won't crack and are very strong.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  16. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    It's hard to find places that will do tempered glass that is as thick as the glass on this car. Being laminated it's very thick compared to single pane tempered and would otherwise rattle in the channels.

    Phil
     
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  17. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    20200705_142734.jpg
    Today was a crimp,

    20200705_142832.jpg
    solder,

    20200705_143005.jpg
    insulate kind of day.


    Phil
     
  18. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    Alrighty. Barring the wire for the under-hood lamp and the ignition run correctly to the switch, the wiring in the car is done.

    I made a short hoop of 10ga wire and bridged the terminals of the Ammeter.
    Now, the current load will be roughly half and half across the wire and Ammeter. It's a (roughly) 40A meter and the alternator is capable of putting out 63A- all of which theoretically could be absorbed by a dead battery so now that had turned the gauge into being able to read 80A (or thereabouts).

    I left the lights and fan on for 5 minutes then started the engine and brought the RPM up with the lights and fan off. It moved to read about half deflection to CHG which makes me a lot happier, before it would peg it off the end of the scale. With everything switched on it shows about half deflection to DIS so that's still useable. I do have the no-charge light too which glows when the needle is in the DIS portion of the gauge.

    That makes me happier that I'm not going to have a red-hot Ammeter.

    8ga now for the parts of wire that will carry over 20A on a regular basis (not a lot of it) so I am good with that. Lights, fan, radio all on is about 30 Amps total so that works for me.
     
  19. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    20200705_180023.jpg
    That's everything run, now just to tidy it up a little....

    Phil
     
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  20. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    Engine compartment is looking a lot better. The big red wire will move away and not go through the firewall, ditto the big black one, that's just because I've got the battery sitting on the floorboard inside temporarily.

    post-5454-0-40077200-1535905840.jpg
    Started with this.

    20200705_200642.jpg
    Now have this.

    Little work to do inside next, but for tonight that's enough.

    Phil
     
  21. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,214

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

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  22. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    20200706_170211.jpg
    Calling that good enough. Put the radio back in too.
    Last thing for the cabin will be to get a new piece of air hose for the passenger side defog and put the glove box back in.

    Tach below the radio is temporary.

    Phil
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2020
  23. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    20200706_192431.jpg
    There we go. I'm happy with that.

    Phil
     
  24. Lookin' great Chief! Nice job.
     
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  25. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    Went rummage in the garage for 5 minutes and decided to spray a little Pledge on the runners of the driver's side rear window (based upon the thought it had silicones in) and that has that glass going up and down smoothly.
    The felt in the runner is quite heavily worn. It's down to the canvas in a number of places.

    Looks like the glass became detached from the sash channel because it was stuck at the top, the winder was wound back up, came in off center and broke the glass.

    Phil
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2020
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  26. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    Just went out to investigate.
    Yup, there's what happened. I lubricated the channels on the front passenger door and now that goes up and down. The mechanism in the rear passenger door moves freely, just the glass is stuck.

    Phil
     
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  27. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    Just went to my Ammeter to the fuse panel. It states "All fuses 20A except radio 14A", which would have been OK for 6V.

    So, I measured:
    Glovebox light: 0.4A
    Fog lights: n/a
    Radio: 3.4A once warmed up
    Dash/lighter/instruments: 10A or thereabouts
    Heater fan: 8.4A (steady)
    Back up lights/brake/turn signals: 9.2A max

    So I'm going to redo the fuses accordingly, with 25-30% overhead (to the nearest standard fuse).

    That should help protect the wires a bit. Also added some contact cleaner to the fuses which helped brighten things up a little.

    Phil
     
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  28. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    I went to the store and bought some proper silicone lubricant today and dosed the window runners up.

    A few creaks and clanks from the helper springs but they move up and down smoothly now.

    20200710_115129.jpg

    50% done!

    Phil
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2020
  29. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    Tidied up the oil pressure idiot light wiring, tightened the union on the oil pressure gauge line because I must've forgotten to do it up- it was leaking at an "oil pan empty in 15 miles" rate.

    Added a return spring to the carb to take up for a bit of slack in the linkage.

    Sat with the car idling and the temp gauge went up a fair bit, higher than I was happy with.

    20200710_175024.jpg

    Revving the engine up a bit to get flow and fan going didn't do much.

    20200710_175045.jpg
    Went grab my IR thermometer. Head, block, radiator all within 3 degrees of each other. So the gauge is over-reading. I can deal with that, moreover I can fix it.
    I calibrated it at about 12 Volts- now it is charging right it reads too high. Voltage regulator time!

    Phil
     
  30. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 552

    PhilA
    Member

    Oh boy.

    I just pulled this out of the driver's side door.

    20200713_195858.jpg

    Yup, someone has attempted to use window putty to hold this glass in.

    20200713_200118.jpg
    Started to pick it out but it was getting a little late and hot in the garage so gave up for tonight.
    The front window channel is gone. That's why the glass is broken on this side.

    *sigh*

    All good fun and games. I think. The channel is also not screwed in, the window runner is seemingly still attached at the bottom which is a start. From what I can see the correct rubber grip is still available to hold the glass into the sash channel but the channels themselves aren't in the door correctly. I think I need to get the glass out, channels out and try start over from scratch on this door.

    Phil
     
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