Hot Rods "may banger may not" may's monthly meeting

Thanks,
while you were typing your post I was removing the manifolds and the valve cover. Three ports were clogged with chewed up nut pieces and scrap paper. The guides in those ports are extremely rusted. I soaked the portswith PB Blaster and will continue to keep them wet with oil.
The good news is this engine is pretty clean inside the valve cover and in the oil pan tray. The fuel pump broke (aluminum crumbled) so when I removed the base off the block I peeked inside. The crank looks like it is counterbalanced.

 

about the 30 coupe on utube.....basic engine with inserts, mild port work and slightly bigger values....and winfield R1 grind. that's from memory of an email he sent me....it sounds great!

PS-- I run dual 81's on mine and it runs great. NO hesitation and light brown plugs...Evans alum intake.

 

Hey Guys,
I need help identifying the cam that was in my B. I pulled it out of my engine yesterday. It has the number "636" stamped on it and a logo that looks like a "C" over "M".

Who ground this cam?

I checked the timing and diration before pulling it out. These are the specs:

.323" net lift.
#1 intake is timed @ 114.5 deg. ATDC.

Intake
@ .015"
opens @ 5 deg. BTDC
closes @ 59 deg. ABDC
total diration 244 deg.

@ .050"
opens @ 12 deg. ATDC
closes @ 38 deg. ABDC
total diration 206 deg.

Exhaust
@ .015"
opens @ 58 deg. BBDC
closes @ 13 deg. ATDC
total diration = 251 deg.

@ .050"
opens @ 39 deg. BBDC
closes @ 7 deg. BTDC
total diration = 212 deg.

 

The ultimate penetrationg oil is Actually a 50/50 mix of Acetone and Brake fluid.
It will soak through anything quicker than a store bought penetraiting oil. Remove the valves completley once they have soaked for a few days.

 

I like the looks of the Mallory units too, I'll try and find one on the cheap.

You do some nice work Chris

 

I need some help with my 28 A R.P.U steering.Someone posted a picture a few months ago of an aftermarket top steering arm to suit A spindles on a dropped axle, used the same way as a 37-48 u style arm.
My front end setup is standard steering box,undropped 32 axle with A spindles & wishbone and i need clearence.
Have looked through the Sacremento Vintage & Speedway websites but have found nothing.
Thanks to everyone who has posted in the banger threads, i don't know what i'd do without it.

 

petritl,

Your welcome, I'm glad it didn't get scrapped! Looks like some good running gear as well!

Jerseyboy

 

Your cam is one of the last style of "B" cams made. They were not done by Ford but farmed out to someone else. The stamp you show is their mark. It's original lift was .329" at the cam.

 

Hey thanks a lot!

 

Thanks Jim,

I have another cam related question.

When timing a cam, if the cam is supposed to be timed at 112 degs how does advancing or retarding that timing effect peak torque and or the horse power curve?

Thanks

.

 

ANDYG thanks for the info. on the youtube coupe. Is he a HAMBER? Good looking roadster you have there.

 

More cam advance more revs

More cam retard more torque

Or is it the other way around? Hell you get the idea ....30 days have Nov..

Oh well.........

Good night

 

I'm new to the banger lifestyle and have a few questions that i hope don't sound stupid.
Do you guys use any upgraded parts on the motor? I just got a sweet complete roller to swap over my Tudor body and the guy said upgrading the distributor would go a long way in helping her run better.
He said it cuts out and this would help.

He also said the generator needs rebuilding.
Do all you guys run the generator or is upgrading to an altenator acceptable?

What about the mechanical brakes? Do you guys run em or do you upgrade? This roller has new mechanical's so i'll be keeping them for a while, but am curious about upgrading.

I'm also going to be hopping up the motor with a new head and updraft carbs. Any suggestions as to which ones work best? Can i just swap over the new parts without any machining?
When i read the catalogs they say something about piston clearence not coming above the block deck?
I want to hop it up but don't want to spend thousands.

The idea is to build a period correct ride from the late 30's early 40's. Going to use model T springs f/R to lower it.
I would really love some advice on this. I plan on starting a thread as soon as i start the build.
Thanks guys.

 

Most common banger parts are bolton. An overhead or something would require some work, but a simple flathead, intake, header and distributor should be a bolt on. As for 12V/6V do whatever you want. I run mine 6V so I didn't have to worry about changing anything else. They start and runs easily enough. Brakes are kinnda different. Most guys switch to hydrallic. I like em both. If yours works fine, run em. Just keep up on adjusting them.

 

Love your rides Chris. Thanks for the help.

 

A good 6V generator will work just fine. If yours is keeping the battery up and the lights on, leave it alone.

Mechanical brakes work fine. Upgrade them with the Ted's floaters and you will be great.

Engine mods.
If you get a head with more then @ 6-1 compresion ration you will probably have piston to head clearence problems When you look for a head, make sure it has about a .040" - .050" relief over the cylinder to clear the pistons. By now most if not all blocks have been decked and that will let the pistons stick up out of the block. Usually @ .040". Most head gaskets will crush to @ .040"-.050" thick.

Change to at least a "B" cam. And run a down draft carb or two. (like a Stromberg they are pre war corect)

Ignition.

If you want the driving experience that a model A has. ( working the levers on the column) then stick with the A distributor. Rebuild it so that the shaft has a good fit and put new points and condenser in it. They are very simple. If you don't want to mess with points there are electronic conversions for the inside that you can't see from the outside.

 

I guess the only stupid question IS the one that isn't asked.
Thanks for all the great advice.

 

just got done puttting intake carb header on my model b its in a 30 coupe. now need to go outside an fire it up .wish me luck

 

I have my banger A up for sale. check it out. i did the intake for it. its in the sale section.

 

what jet size do you sugjest in a holley 94 as an average starting point? it seams lean. it had 57 in it. replaced with 74 seamed alot better on strart up an on reving throttle. but didnt get a chance to drive it will try in the am. it has a burns single intake and reds header

 

What I have really enjoyed over the past few years about the the banger meets is really about going fast, knowledge and speed equipement.

So, how about some good old fashioned speed equipement write ups...I know that lots of you guys have all manner of cool things hidden around. How about a monthly tech on old speed equipment.

So below is an early Master Carburetor, I will look around and try and find the patent.





choke actuation arm:

 

And on to how this critter looks disassembled, it is not overly complicated (also it has no gaskets)

On the top left is the fuel bar, as the barrel opens it progressively uncovers the jets in the bar

the barrel throat is great for WOT, but it has a tendancy to not have the best throttle response at low speed. I put a lot of mileage on this carb on my T, kinda lags up to 65 then hold, was followed routinely at 75-80 mph:

 

the barrel open and kinda closed:


the slot on the right is the idle circuit:

 

the spray bar and the choke mechanism in the main body:

 

Here is the Patent (or pretty close):

 

Fur,
Thanks for sharing. I've never seen one of those "eploded"

Good Idea on the show and tell too.

I'l see if I can come up with anything in the future.
.

 

Awesome, I have a friend who has a few of those and a few other miller carbs....not including the many windfields he has just laying about in his barn, on the floor.

 

EvoJoe67, I might have a Good "B" cam in my storage, ill have to check. I also have a good "C" head as well.

 

My 94 came with 61 main jet. I am running a 68 main jet now. My intake runs cold so had to ad more fuel hope it helps
Bill

 

A friend of my dad's asked if I would be interested in an old Toro tractor with a Ford "B" engine. What were these used for? pictures? If it will mow grass I might have to try and get it to knock down the (2) acre yard. In the year I have lived here we have pretty well worn out the Craftsman lawn tractor that came with the house.

Does the engine differ much from the automotive engine?