March Hares - or Tortises...and BANGERS!

Found a set digging in a parts bin at buddys yesterday looking for a generator. .060 over but no swedish on them. I am just as curious as you as to hear what the application was. Anybody? Luke

 

T pistons had a lower oil ring like that, but T pistons aren't big enough to use in a A.

Maybe they are pistons used in air compressor engines to cut down on oil blow by into the cylinders. Just a guess.
.

 

I just bought an A motor that had been turned into an air compressor. took it aprt...EXACT same pistons...minus the swedish...anybody want a gordon smith air compressor head.....also have a deuce water pump.

 

sorry I lied mine are the same but they're .070 over. where do I find rings for that?

 

Makes sense to me, the engine these came out of was a diamond block with no numbers and no head when the guy bought it. Thanks for the info fellas!

 

The piston i have came from a car engine, i looked agen at the piston and the swedish was printed, so its could have been when it arrived to sweden.
Im spoked to a traktor mecaniker and the traktors have such piston in old engines.

Im speculating in a new banger bulid, have anybody tried to build in 2 vw heads Not aircoold, on a 4 banger?
I have looked att a volvo b20 head and its possibole to make it work.
Have anybody tried to build a model a cam of a another 4 bager cam.
Im think if i take a Volvo cam and split it in the middle and make it widther, put in the middle baring from the model a and the end barings aswell on the volvo cam, and weld it together. Will it work?

After two supercharged banger, im wants to try build a overheds engine with a tripple carbs or something

Sorry bad english, hope you understand.

Ps. We dont have any model a cam builders here in sweden:

 

Hey again, i got my banger back together and i have a few questions. First i serched and i suck at it. Wheres a good starting point for a 81 carb, its single with i think a b grind cam and a 5.5 to 1 head. Also the passenger side water neck stud is weeping at the nut, what is the best solution to this problem? thanks in advance- the kid

 

Hey folks,
does anyone have a picture of the 32 ford rear mechanical brake setup, specifically the e-brake. I just mounted complete front brakes on my A coupe from a 32 but the rear does not have the same 2 lever in the backing plate setup as my A. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Adam

 

SORRY cant help with pics...But could you post pics of your front end
thanks Bill

 

The 32 rear emergency brakes are integrated into the service brake system. The E-brake accuating rod is attached to the service brake cross shaft. The rear clevis is elongated to only apply tension to the rear brakes only. Sorry I don't have a picture.

 

Found this in 32 Service Bulletin, hope it helps.

 

Timberbeast, thanks so much for the info, thats what I needed to know. Will post pics later today.

 

The new family ride:





I bought it because the body is so straight and clean - not a speck of rust - and I was planning to put it on a '32 chassis I am building. But everything is so nice that I can't bear to bust it up.

Going to 17" wires, V8 gearbox, reverse eye springs, 12V and B distributor. Gonna keep the updraft carb & mechanical brakes.

Will Kimble

 

Nice Tudor Will. That is going to be my next project.

.

 

I got a call from my Dad who is building a '31 P/U. He finally got the Rutherford headed B engine that will go into the truck on an engine stand and took the pan of to look at it. Here is what is inside it. Pontiac rods, SBF pistons (4.032 dia.), long duration .300" lift cam, 1 3/4" intake ports., pressurized dry sump oil system, insert bearings. 2" rod journals. This thing is a monster.

 

Wow that is awesome, wonder what the length is on those rods, and what bearings they are.

 

Sweet engine....I like the look of that head. Did he weld some shims to the crank to make the rods work? thanks for the cool pics
later Bill

 

geeze crazy that head looks very similar if not the same as mine just replacing some parts stolen before getting into mine lost my sideplate behive oil filter and rutherford sump luckerly not the head or winfied carbs. I dont know much about Slim Rutherford other than he was a sucsesful driver at the end of dirt track era

 

The best that I could measure, the rods are the same length as stock A. The crank has been welded and ground to fit the rods. I have no idea of what bearings they use.

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I need to get Dad's '31 Roadster running by July 1st and registered, insured, ready for my daughters wedding, (her request) it was parked in 1983, hasn't run since. I'm an auto body guy NOT a mechanic, and I don't understand electricity. So what are the electrical gremlins that will prevent the car from starting? I was running when it was parked, stone stock wireing & ignition.

 

Shouldn't be a big deal '37, today's a good day to dig it out. Start with a fresh battery and work from there. Make sure you have current with a test light/ volt meter from the battery to the starter. Ignition switch to the coil to the distributor to the plugs, etc. I'll trade you, grease monkey work for body work?

 

I'd like to hear that thing with an open header goin flat out. In its history what do you think it use was, circle track racing, lakes or.....? Any ideas from who your Pop bought it from?

 

If I buy a test light it will be the wrong one, that is what totally pisses me off about electricity, no two guys will give you the same answer. Funny how fast the 27 years have gone by since the car was last out.

 

It came out of an old sprinter in Indiana. The guy ran it for a while, then pulled it to freshen it up. While it was out he decided to switch to a Miller and sold it to offset some of the cost. It came with a sprinter type header that he will not be running in the truck. But he will have a cut-out so that it can be heard load and clear.

 

'37,
If it ran when it was parked, it will run now with out any electrical issues. just replace the battery and drain the gas tank. Unless mice have chewed into the wires, there shouldn't be any electrical problems.

Pop the distributor cap and make sure the points haven't grown fuzz or corroded. If they have, either replace them, or just clean them with a little 600 grit sand papper.

You will probably have more trouble with the fuel system if it was put away wet.

Check the coolant lines to. Sitidis eats at those too.

.

 

Tank was dry when we parked it, I replaced all the lines a year or so ago, new battery too. Replacing all the electrical stuff is next I guess, I'd rather play with snakes.

 

Bob,

If you're changing out the wiring... you will be

But those systems are pretty straight forward- you can do it.

 

I'm loosing interest again.

 

Losing interest is NOT an option, your daughter has spoken. And you know the punishment for not listening to her. Her mother will speak next.

 

I can repaint two wheels and install the new Firestone whitewalls, they'll look good in a photo.