March Hares - or Tortises...and BANGERS!

I put a stock A cam in my block today and my new cam should have about .075 more lift so I am thinking I have to take about .375 off the boss. Does that sound like a lot?
thanks bill

 

I´m wondering, can i mill my original Model A head for higher compression or is it just waste of money?
I´m going to build it up whit original head and buy some high compression head in future.
Original head must milled straight so it would be easy to cut little bit more...

 

I asked a similar thing a month or two ago (high-compression pistons with a stock head). Consensus was that the original head wasn’t worth messing with, as the chamber design, etcetera was very poor.

-Dave

 

Well, I found out last night that my ‘banger may have slipped through my fingers. I have a friend that got a big pile of Model A parts from a relative or acquaintance. I’d seen this stuff before, in its original location, and amongst it was a complete intake-to-trans Model A engine.

Well, my friend retrieved this stuff, and didn’t get the engine for some reason. So I have a Model A transmission, intake, pan, etc, but no block, crank, or head. D’oh!

-Dave

 

Took the car out yesterday with no hiccups ( I remembered to check the fuel level this time) lol. There was a huge Model T event going on last week with all restored cars that was pretty cool. I took tons of pics. I parked my modified off in the distance so as not to intrude on their gig. Still had old ladies walking up wanting pics. lol Good times.

 

If your stock cam has not been reground at some time it would be a good reference point. how much of the lifter is exposed when the lobe of your stock cam is on the heel? You probably don't need to have all of the flat exposed but it doesn't seem to weaken anything to remove a little extra.

 

Vic King ran 107 driving his Midnite Oil in 1960 to earn him the national record, 1960 in the X dragster class.

Sparks head, Enderle injection.

 

Hey guys

What brand pistons are you running in mild engines? I have a set of solid skirt pistons. I think they are Silvolite. But they are 0.080" over and I only need +0.060" on the engine I'm building. Of course it's just to bore a bit more, but I'd like to use them later for another engine I have that really needs to be bored out to +0.080".

Anyway I have not seen any solid skirt pistons lately (I might have been blind) except for forged ones and that seems a bit over the top.

So what should I buy?

Thanks,
Magnus

 

I have some ROSS pistons being made now. But if you have new or real nice used .08 pistons I would just bore it to .08 and save some cash

 

My cam looks to be stock but I dont have any of the flat sticking up its about .03 +- under the boss

 

I just eyeballed mine and I have about .150 sticking out, and I beleive it to be original.

 

Is that with a stock lifter?

 

Does anybody know where to get 32 ford spring perches. Im putting a 32 heavy beam in my 31 banger powered coupe and need the taller perch bolts to accomodate the added drop of the 32 axle and retain my model a mechanical brake actuators.
I could weld up an extension but that would be my second choice. Thanks in advance, Adam.

 

Nice find on the Winfields. The single BB will probably be fine for a nicely hopped up banger. But to put a pair of CC or D size Winfields will end up being just too much carb for all but a full race banger motor. I have seen one banger running a D Winfield but it also had a OHV head. And it was a real sleeper, very stock appearing restored roadster, but fooled a lot of new cars from the stop light.

 

My motor really confuses me, I know where it has been since 1961, and supposedly only has 5700 some odd miles on it and i have the service records on it from new, i recently bought a 5.5-1 head for it so last weekend i pulled the head and found it has been bored +.02 and the valves were in really bad shape mostly the guides, so i dont know what the hell is going whether its stock, rebuilt or what.

 

I think I saw this question asked before but I never really paid attention to it at the time. Last week I cleaned up the head I took off of my roadster engine and took it to the swap meet as I replaced it with a 5.5 head. One of the guys there said he thought it was heavier than a Model A head and the combustion chambers were deeper and a little different. When we looked it over, it had a raised embossment that looked like an M with two lines on it so it reads like MF. Is this an idustrial engine head?

 

I needed some front 32 brake parts and listed my "wants" in the HAMB classifieds and received several replies. A couple replies had complete axles so the parts are still out there.

 

My Big Banger News is that I got my recently running and assembled 1931 Coupe into Detroit's Autorama at the last minute (literally). Here are photos of all the Bangers that showed up this year. For the first time, there was a special trophy given to the Best Banger (Thanks to Rudy AKA Roadstar). It was won by the Crager powered speedster. Maybe next year we can have a Banger Club section?

Here's a rundown of the cars:
-My red primered 1931 coupe
-A nice stocker 1930 coupe
-The Poteet pickup with a new Donovan block with a new Miller head
-A neat 1931 pickup that's been in the same family for years.
-A stripped down 1930-31 roadster with a kegger tank on the front
-The "Best Banger" winning speedster with a Crager
-A nice, stripped down 1929 sedan
-The HAMB tag proudly displayed on a Banger!

 

That little white speedster has dirtbike tires! thats a new concept!

 

Not really... they've been using knobby tires on dirt tracks since the early 30's- Monkey Ward sold them and had more than a few contracts with racers.

 

Hey Fro...
I found some time last night and put a stock lifter in my block and yes it sticks up about .150. I am using adjustable lifters the bolts sticks up but the flat on the lifter sit in the boss.

It sounds like you engine was rebuilt by a farmer behind the old barn
My engine in my car was rebuilt it shop class in 1956. It gave me 3000 good miles now its junk

 

Just a quick "uneducated" question...

Would a pair of Harley Davidson carbs (like these) work for an early 4?

 

What size is the bore in them there carbs? You might need 4 for a hot engine.
harley and a banger have about the same rpms

 

Three - if you include RHD tops with the hand brake to the left hand side...

 

Four if you count the AR top with no handbrake...

 

I'll see if I can find out... pirated that pic from "evil-spay".

 

A quick search brought up a Harley CV carb with a bore of 44mm (1 3/4") which is just about perfect for the '28 Chevy head (I'm at work- don't have the info on the head with me)!

They're dirt cheap and may bolt right on to the head... or I could make an intake manifold...

 

If the carb is off of a Harley of about 100 inches and you are using two of them on a banger of about 200 inches it would seem like it could be made to work. Here are a set of injectors from a Suzuki 'Busa on a 210 inch banger that worked well.

 

Rich,

The Chevy 4 is 171 CI (unless I bump it out a bit). I found an article on HD CV carbs- the 40mm is for 95CI and they make a 44mm and a 50mm for "larger" engines.

Looks like I could use either a pair of 40's or 44's and be okay?

 

Maybe I'm oversimplifying, but my logic re: Harley carbs would be something like this - in the '40s Harley built a 45ci engine, a 61ci engine, a 74ci engine, and an 80ci engine. So, setting aside the flow differences between flatheads and overheads, a 170ci engine could use four 45ci carbs (180ci capability); three 61ci carbs (183ci capability); two 74ci carbs (148ci capability); or two 80ci carbs (160ci capability). I would love to see a 'banger with a couple of Linkerts on the side, ala Ak Miller's 144ci Falcon experiments in the early-1960s.

-Dave