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Technical *** March 2015 Banger meet - are you ready for spring?***

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Mar 1, 2015.

  1. Invest in Jim Brierley's book "4-Bangers and me" Well worth the money. It will answer all your questions. Jim is on the HAMB but unsure of his handle.
     
    HotRodMicky likes this.
  2. First question I'd ask is how committed are you to a late 30's - 40's hop up? (As in, how period-correct are you wanting to make it?)
     
  3. jimb4e4@gmail.com will get you there. I'm going to use a J Brierley Winfield SU1R regrind in my street build.
     
  4. nailheadroadster
    Joined: Jun 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,523

    nailheadroadster
    Member

    Great question, thank you for taking the time to assist!

    I would like it to appear vintage to the casual observer. The guys that participate on this monthly thread would most likely pick it apart.

    I will be using an alternator to get 12 volts, but I have NO interest in wrapping my radiator hoses in faux braided stainless with red and blue collars. LOL

    I love the look of lacquered cloth spark plug wires and the stock Model A radiator hose clamps. It will NOT have an electric fan or air conditioning.

    It is dropped with a 33 front axle, 32 spindles and perches and a T spring out back with blackwall Firestones and 35 Ford wires all around.

    So... How committed am I??? Ummm... kinda I guess, but Im not opposed to using new parts as long as I can make em look like they belong. Does that make sense?
     
  5. Along the same lines, how many $$$' s and how much time are you willing to invest in getting the parts. It has taken me 6 months to locate a Winfield head, a Burns dual down draft and a pair of Stromberg 81's and many$$$'s. I have lots of want ads everywhere looking for those specific pieces and getting difficult to find. Easier to go prewar looking then correct with the reproduction parts available.
     
  6. waxhead
    Joined: May 11, 2013
    Posts: 1,070

    waxhead
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from West Oz

    I would like it to appear vintage to the casual observer. The guys that participate on this monthly thread would most likely pick it apart.

    I will be using an alternator to get 12 volts, but I have NO interest in wrapping my radiator hoses in faux braided stainless with red and blue collars. LOL[/QUOTE]

    What alternator are you planning on using?? Power master have recently released alternators that look like original Model A generators, but are 12 volt alternators (they also have a 6 volt model). I have ordered one that is currently on it's way to Australia.

    http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/pwm-82001
     
  7. nailheadroadster
    Joined: Jun 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,523

    nailheadroadster
    Member

    As far as money... I know the parts are not going to be cheap, but I don't feel that I need an original Winfield yellow head, intake and carbs to putt around. Repop stuff is ok.

    I'm really goin back and forth on the intake.... the dual downdrafts look the best to me, but I'm sure with the stock engine two 81s would be too much. And, I have a friend in the local model A club that rebuilds the Zenith carbs so getting another one for a dual updraft would be easiest and cheaper.
     
  8. nailheadroadster
    Joined: Jun 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,523

    nailheadroadster
    Member

    I had no idea! Thank you sir!
     
  9. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    floatless2,,jpg.jpg floatless carb..jpg

    Time to drag out the "float-less" carb photos again

    These being without floats will mount in any direction The sprung loaded door on the side is for backfire pressure relief
     
    Jet96 and gwhite like this.
  10. Very cool! Stan Howe had one mounted on a Model T at one point...don't know if he ever got it running. Any idea how much they flow?
     
  11. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    The manifold is undrilled
    I have no info. Like most things I have found these at a swap meet years ago

    We moved 11 40 ft containers of this kind of junk to Poland with us..........
     
  12. Question is, Jim- how many have you emptied :D?
     
  13. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    You don't own sea freight containers......... so they are all empty as soon as they came.

    We have a new building for storage 5000ft and a 5 year lease. It';s the nicest building we've ever had

    This town is 26,000 people..... there are huge new buildings and also damp Communist concrete builds
    medium buildings are near impossible to find

    It's stacked to the rafters!
     
  14. [​IMG] Quick pic I took in my one road hometown.
     
  15. Freaking cool! 1917-ish Willys? Looks like an A chassis/drivetrain. Would love to see more!!
     
  16. 1914 Maxwell on A chassis/drivetrain. Soon to have serious chopped top, have great ideas thanks to MrModelT, blk wall 21s, Thompson finned aluminum head & full interior. [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Leon Sandcastle likes this.
  17. Like the car, would love to see a build thread!
     
  18. Phred
    Joined: Jul 21, 2008
    Posts: 18

    Phred
    Member
    from IL

    UPDATE: Heated Carb Riser
    I threatened to report after last month's post...
    I have run the car for a couple days in 15*F - 20*F temps and can report no frost on the intake manifold and that the car does run much better in the cold, car will now run without choke when warmed up. Prior to installation, just the opposite, frost on manifold and poor running. Next step is to replace the rubber hoses with steel tubing to tidy things up.

    Carb Riser small.jpg
     
    SJR likes this.
  19. like this? :p brrrrr.jpg
     
  20. orangeamcs
    Joined: Jun 23, 2007
    Posts: 600

    orangeamcs
    Member

    Next project for my 29 is to install the b motor and trans I just purchased. As far as I can tell I need the kit that mounts the a pedals to the b trans. Also think I need the front b motor mount kit and float a motor rear mount kit from berts model a. Am I on right track here? If there is a simpler or mode traditional way to do it I'm listening.

    Would really like to do it with a 32 k member or f1 and do the hydraulic brake route all at one time but just want to have it up and running so I can enjoy it. That's a project for next year
     
  21. 5280A2
    Joined: Sep 8, 2014
    Posts: 111

    5280A2

    Two advantages of using the Model A spring-loaded yoke are that you retain the three point mounting that allows for frame twist without breaking mounting brackets or the ears on the flywheel housing, and secondly it allows for up and down adjustment to align the ratchet on the crank pulley to the crank bearing on the front cross member. That allows you to retain the use of your hand crank if you want to use it. As a long time Model A guy I prefer to use the hand crank and timing pin to find TDC for setting the timing.

    IMG_2504.25.jpg
     
    Fly'n Kolors likes this.
  22. orangeamcs
    Joined: Jun 23, 2007
    Posts: 600

    orangeamcs
    Member

    What rear mount kit are you using 5280a2?
     
  23. 5280A2
    Joined: Sep 8, 2014
    Posts: 111

    5280A2

    I made the rear mounts from 3-inch angle and V8 biscuits. If I was going to do it again I would change the design to mount the angle in the frame with the leg for the biscuit at the bottom of the mount instead of the top. My design caused some interference with the clutch pedal on the driver's side which I had to resolve with a shorter arm on the throwout shaft to reduce the amount the clutch pedal needed to move to release the clutch. That combined with some hacking away of the mount got me the pedal travel I needed. I also fabricated the pedal mounts to follow the ones available from Cling's and others, but I couldn't find any pictures of that. They bolt to the top of the transmission and are braced from the end of the pedal shaft back to the flywheel housing. Unless you really like making stuff, the float-a motors from Bert's for putting a B in an A are hard to beat.

    IMG_2508.25.jpg

    IMG_2509.25.jpg
     
    CrazyUncleHarry likes this.
  24. ebtm3
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 837

    ebtm3
    Member

     
  25. [​IMG] One more piece to the puzzle! I'll have to shave a small portion of the fins as I'm running original A rods (timing)
     
  26. Cool! Throw a B distributor on it and don't worry about it :)
     
  27. briphaeton
    Joined: Dec 29, 2011
    Posts: 36

    briphaeton
    Member
    from cal

    I'm almost done building my full pressure A block and considering doing away with the oil return tube.
    Is it really needed with a full pressured Block? The tube infers with the other oil lines. The only oil getting to the valve chamber well be from the pressure relief valve and should be plenty.
    Thank for your opinions.
    Brian
     

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  28. 5280A2
    Joined: Sep 8, 2014
    Posts: 111

    5280A2

    If your crankshaft is drilled for pressure to the rods I believe you have more flexibility with getting oil from the valve chamber to the pan. One thing to think about is how much oil will it will take to fill up the valve chamber to the point where it will drain back into the pan. Without the return pipe the chamber will fill until it runs through the opening behind the cam gear so there will be more oil up there than would be the case with the pipe. If you keep your dipper tray you now have a couple of quarts of oil tied up where your pump can't get it, especially when you're turning right and the oil is climbing the side of the pan away from your oil pump.

    In my system I pressurized the mains, but still have splash oiling for the rods so I run a pressurized supply that dumps oil into the dipper tray right behind the cam gear. I also drilled two 3/4-inch drain back holes through the floor of the valve chamber to get oil from the relief valve back into the dipper tray as fast as possible without the exterior pipe. The Model B blocks had two drain back holes which I copied when I built my Model A system. The picture shows the front one between cylinders 1 and 2. There's another one in the same location between 3 and 4. Holes were drilled from the crankcase into the chamber, first with a pilot drill, then with a hole saw to final size.

    IMG_2276.25.jpg
     
  29. colinsmithson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2013
    Posts: 383

    colinsmithson
    Member

    You will be fine with out the oil return pipe most pressure system do not need it
    in fact it is or was the norm to the point that 01546 oil block off.jpg most A model parts suppliers sale block off plate
     

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