Something tells me that he has something to do with selling that magazine. Kinda looked like an ad to me. Luke
With almost 3,000 posts I am certainly not a "newbie." And I have no interest in Street Rod DeLuxe or the product. I know that there is a lot of interest in here in using the T5 transmission with the original torque tube. I thought that a post here alerting folks to the article would be appreciated. By some, I guess, but not all.
I thank you for posting it and for your interest in the adaptation. I think they are giving me a hard time, not you. Please take no offense. .
Hi folks, I don't want to stir the manure, but I would like some opinions about bolting speed equipment onto a Model A four cylinder. We were jawing on Ford Barn about the pros and cons of a few performance items. There were some naysayers about the wisdom of go fast parts with these engines. One guy in particular said that a high compression head, two barrel, headers and a distributer will definitely blow the engine because it can't take that kind of torque. I know from my limited reading here that it's a good idea to do some interal work on the engine as well as bolt ons, but I've never heard that engine upgrades like these will definitely blow up an engine that's otherwise stock. Any truth to this? If there are weak points that may blow, what are they and what should be done about them?
He is 100 percent correct, leave him holding that thought. Restorers are only keeping the old cars in good nick waiting for hotrodders to buy them!! He will soon get sick of trailering his Model A to shows and parades and driving at 40 mph max. Model A motors have been hot rodded and raced since a few months after they were released.... Pietenpol had them modified and fitted to his first A powered aircraft in 1928...and people are still building them .
Well that's not actually what he said. He said you will be looking for an engine builder soon... to replace your babbits with inserts. He might be right. You will get a lot more out of an engine with cranks, bores, cams, and valves. A lot of us are on both forums. I'll stir the manure with what he said... I put on a Thomas Alumn head and I have a Weind on another engine...I have a Burns downdraft and 94...Mallory dual pt....Reds headers...I have everything that can be bolted on either chrome or polished Alumn....BUT !!! I just thought I had a hot rod 4 Banger until I drove Ron Kelly's little rust bucket RPU....AND!!!! LIKE ME IF YOU PUT ALL THAT JUNK ON YOUR ENGINE YOUR GOINA BE LOOKIN FOR A MOTOR REBUILDER VERY SOON !!!!!!!!!!!! the ole babbit beater can't handle that torque.... I have alot of speed equipment that will be FOR SALE soon to help pay for a inserted that will run a cast iron B head and a stock carb and distr.
rpm and pre ignition will kill babbit so bolt all the stuff you want on and don't spin it to the moon and watch(listen) for detonation tk
I didn't mean to misrepresent. I figured if you screw up the bearings, your engine's essentially shot and needs major repair. That's what I meant about blowing the engine. I know guys are on both forums. I read several times over there to come over here with these kinds of questions, so that's what I did. I'm just trying to learn and understand what I read.
Both forums are great places to learn, and you learn a lot from just doing it. "tub in da dirt" made a good point.
I've said it many times. I run 7.6 : 1 compression with 2 81 carbs, FSI electronic dist. with advance set to 32 degs total advance with a B cam. no other mods. The engine was pulled from a 33 com. truck, cleaned, painted, babit bearing clearances checked and found to be in spec. (stock dia. journals on both the rods and mains.). I ran it for about 1000 miles when the #4 piston top broke off. I replaced the .040" pistons and rings with out boring the block. Cylinders had .010" belly I just broke the glaze with a hone and instaled new Federal Mogul "modern " pistons and Hasting rings. It has been running for the last two years driven hard on Socal roads and drag strips. The only problem I've had has been a couple of blown head gaskets. Tub said it right. Detonation kills babit. Don't lug it and it is better to run a lower gear up a hill then it is to leave it in high gear and let it lug over the top. My engine must be an anomaly. .
You might wont to add this to your list of banger info My engine is a twin to yours but I am only running one carb for now. I beat the balls out of it last summer. I do lug is at times and when I do I know its not good for it. But that stock trany sucks to down shift Speaking of tranys I cant believe mine is still in one pc and not on the ground. I am not nice to it But I don't think the guy I got the car from was very nice to it when he was a kid. The car was his high school beater from 55 to 57. I know 3 guys that got rides to school in my car back in the day. The story's they tell I can't believe there was a car left for me
It's on the list I just don't won't to take it off the road until my pick up is done. I have all the parts but the drive shaft. I don't have any spare 3speed tranys but I do have 3 s-10 and one jeep t-5 It's a good thing H. Ford built the shit out of these little As
Isn't the speed question with bangers somewhere between engine hop-ups and OD (and of course brakes). I'll spend my money on the later for now.
I have heard you can modify a small block Chevy Harmonic Balancer to work on a Model A Engine.. Any truth to this.. OR what do you guys recomend.. I am building a 1929 Coupester.. IT was Cut up Many Moons before I was put on this planet.. Out of the Grove and putting it back on the Highway..
to build a model a engine to perform you have to understand a few basics Henry built the a engine to be under stressed and last longer once you start to add things other mods are also needed ie high compression heads and heavy flywheels dont go together understand what you are doing and why and you can have a lot better performing motor an old time mechanic once told me one of the best ways to make a t or a engine go better was to add a thermostat because these motors like to run warm I think he was right.
I've noticed my speeds and E.T.s are better in the afternoon when things are hotter. Oh ya, I'm running a 42# flywheel on a non counter weighted crank. .
You change the wheels and the diffs wrong hence the t-5 or overdrive then the keyways go then the brakes need changing to flathead Teds setup or hydros price is going up thinks maybe bellybutton chev small block nah boreing a bangers about as much fun ya can have with ya pants on!!!!!
Anytime you modify any engine your going to shorten it's life It's one on the costs of HP. The question is ''HOW MUCH''. A new dist on an A is a good thing. Likewise B cam and down draft carb That is just bringing the engine up to a good standard.... But DON'T THINK it means you can over rev it. Hardest thing to adjust in the "Nut Behind the Wheel" Think before you stomp.
Define "over rev" I find that most don't over rev because they are afraid they will break something. I was with a bunch of guys talking about how these engines are on a "Short fuse" and I said that mine had been running for 2 or 3 years and one guy said, "Yeah, but you only drive it on and off the trailer" I thought it was funny. I used to run my 29 between 50 and 55 all day long Musta been around 2500, just had a single Winfield "M" updraft, mag and a straight pipe. Of course the speed limit was 55 so no big deal. If you could add a few more "beans" and pull a set of 3.27's you could hit 63 or so with that RPM
Sneak look at what I'm starting back on..... Yes it will be banger powered. (don't know why it's blurry.sry. Photobucket acting up) plus 18 wire wheels & beefed rear tires
Ok got another question for you guys. I fixed the waterpump and put it back in, while i was at it i installed a 160 thermostat in the upper water pump hose. and when i refilled the radiator this time just cause i noticed a bit of rust dried up where the water flows I added a bit of water wetter to the distilled water. the car has done this everytime i take it for a run. At the head gasket i get a bit of small dirty water bubbles in 1 -2 places. I retorqued the head at 55lbs in the correct torquing order. and it still does it just a bit. I mentioned before that i flushed the system with the rust treatment when i reinstalled the new radiator and that seemed to start the problem. my question is it a problem? is it common? car runs and drives fine. i havent taken it on a longer run since the newly installed thermostat. car deffinetly heats up faster and runs smoother. here is a pic of the head residue
The Jalopy Journal
