thanks bill and that is good advice. would you use the rear greasing pack nut with backup teflon seal? or update it to the leakless greasless rear nut? is the pressed on greaseless ball bearing on the shaft a good idea or just keep it all stock?
Why don't you drive over to C W Moss and see what they have to offer? I think a good rebuild kit is around $ 50.00. there are choices. I used a "leakless" kit in my last one. I don't mind a squirt of grease every 500 miles or so. Hell, I ain't drove 500 miles in the last year in any thing. My priorities are screwed up. I have a 2 port sitting in my 29 RPU that needs finishing. Some fuel lines and new linkage needed but I'm working on my Ford 800 tractor engine rebuild. Sold some rare (HA HA) pieces from my vast collection to finance my 4 port setup but I'm spending all of my "profits" on tractor parts. I'm saving up for a 32 style crossmember. Probably go with a Tardel. My plan is to bolt the coupe body on the frame and see if I can get in and out of it. If I can't I will have a finished late 31 coupe body for sale. By finished I mean all of the metal work is done and it has been block sanded 3 times has a 2" chop and the top has been filled. It is a late 31 sitting on 29 rails with 29 fenders Old school hot rod! I found a set of Ford 15" pick up wheels out by the pig pen. You know, I used to buy every Kelsey I came across never paid more than $25 for one just had to have them, got nervous when I had less than 20, but then I remembered the first thing we would do back in the 50's was get rid of those spoke wheels and scrounge up some solids so I swapped for a set of 16" ford solids but I'm going to use the wider 15'. those wheels with "baby moons" would have been the "Tits" back then!
Hi Kirby; I went to the dual updrafts mainly because many have gone to downs. I've seen way too many of them and wanted the real oldtimey look. They seem to have worked well in the past so what the heck. If I was really concerned about peformance I would have gone with real modern technology. I guess it all boils down to ones individual taste. Zenith still makes updaft carbs for the A and B engines and they are still in Michigan, of all places. I know because I bought two of them. I am using a very rare and cool R&R (Robert Roof) manifold. Preliminary tests look good. Ron
I've been helping my dad get his truck finished in time for the Pancake breakfast at the end of this month. We got ot running today:
DAMN!!!!!! Dan. Pretty psychotic in a good way. I like the whole set-up. Late 31 Steel top, Model B shell, (3) 97 set-up, over-head. Amazing bang-er Porn.-Weeks
Hi crazy I really like that love the sound comming out the back really wanting to get back onto mine just have to complete earthquake cleanup first are you guys still useing the mag on the sidedrive? and I wish I had that much room for headers {our steering is on the other side] great effort nice car
We got the rest of the sheet metal on today. Head lights an license plates and it is ready for a test drive. .
What is the deal on this "Missing Link" Riley 2Port with intakes on both sides? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=567560&highlight=speedster
New to me, nothing about something like that in Dan Iandola's book. Looks like a setup for dual updrafts. I will expand on my comment. There were/are a lot of innovators out there. There is a photo of a 2 port head that was modified for dual plugs and at first glance looks to be as cast but the extra spark plug holes were welded in.
Got the water pump figured out question now is about the impellor guys running a walker model a replacement radiator did u trim down the impellor to reduce flow?
The thing is you need block pressure. This keeps steam pockets from forming inside near casting hot spots. The only reason for trimming the the pump is to reduce cavitation if the pump speed is high And please don't tell me 'You have to slow the water too cool the water' THAT JUST ISN'T SO.
Bluto wrote- "And please don't tell me 'You have to slow the water too cool the water' THAT JUST ISN'T SO. " SO true!! If your radiator ain't up to the job, it isn't big enough, or not enought air is getting through. Herb
The stock "A" pump will pump water out of the overflow as temperature rises or RPM increases. There are smaller diameter crank pulleys available to correct this on modified higher RPM engines. On some radiators the overflow tube is shortened or bent to raise the level in the radiator. Some people don't realize this and they keep adding water because it looks low in the top tank. My brother in law had a 29 roadster with a swan radiator cap which had a angled vent hole and because of tube in the radiator being pinched closed water would squirt out of that hole when he wound it up in low and turned a corner
I had a 35 Roadster with the dog mascot..... also cross drilled and modified to spray a tiny stream of water on those near
I saw that statement in Synder's Catalog about the pump pumping so much water the radiator could not keep up with the flow. The pump can not pump more water than is supplied to the pump.
Biggest problem with A's and B's losing water out the overflow (asside from the amount increase due to temperature mentioned by Bill) is a partially clogged radiator, or one of the worthless two row replacement rads that people buy because of the low price. As long as you can see water when you remove the cap, you are good to go.
Greetings all, looking for a little banger info. I just took my A banger apart to address some issues and wanted to get an idea what a safe max rpm is for one of these motors. I know that stock 3000 is about it but this motor is loaded with good stuff.. counterweights on the crank, insert bearings, lightened flywheel, full pressure oiling, looks like scat H beam rods with ARP bolts, aftermarket mail caps and a performance cam . It also has an aluminum Winfield head and a pair of 97's. Is 4500 to high as a shift point for occassional spirited driving ? Also it has a adjustable cam button so I need a camshaft endplay spec , one member here suggested .007-.010. The cam is a Brierley A1 , anyone have a clue on lash settings for that cam ? Pete
Wow must be one of those new fangled jet propelled jobbies I heard they are a real beggar to put on a lead and walk maybe you should just let it run along side the Millar?
yes to the rpm, but not if that is everytime you leave a stoplight yes to the cam spec and yes please post pictures tk
I have a Brierley 1A in my Al. Winfield repop flathead I set the valves at .014 and the cam endplay at .005 max. I think that cam should be great on the street. I redlined this engine at 4000. It only goes 1/4 mile at a time. last year it went through the lights at 3650 (82MPH) in high, don't know what it hit going through the gears, driver just looked straight ahead, "What tach?" One big difference, 4.562 stroke. I think an "A" crank drilled and with welded counter weights is on a short fuse, broke my first one hitting 4,000 after not too many hard pulls at under 4,000 RPM's, second one didn't last much longer. Magnufluxed it and found a crack during rebuild after 1 year. So didn't destroy anything else. This is/was my experience. Now I run a SBC dampener on everything. Watch the advance, easy to run too much. This probably puts more stress on the crank. I had too much on the first "A" crank but only had 27 degrees on the second. All in by 2,000.
Great input guys , thanks. I'll try to get some pictures on this weekend. So I take it that 4000 should be my "occassional" top rpm. I generally drive very conservatively but we all get the urge now and again. As for advance I have learned from driving this car that it likes it all in at low rpm. Should I figure 27 as a max total or go lower? And thank you for the cam specs. Pete
Wow... Pete I better not line up with you at a stop light That engine sounds real nice we will have to hook up at a show this summer Bill
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