Technical Made some radiator support rods

I needed some radiator support rods but couldn't find what I wanted. The frame on my 29 is stretched 3" and the body is channeled 4.5". I searched the forums and found some great info on support rods but no pics. So when I made mine today, I figured I'd take pics of how I did it and materials.

I first bought some all thread so I could mock up the bends and length I needed.


For the rods, I used 5/16" solid stainless rod


Once I got the final shape of the all thread rod, I copied the bends to the stainless rod. I bent the rod in a vice and other various bending methods.


After the bends were complete, I started cutting the threads on both ends of the rod.


Completed rod final shape with both ends threaded/cut.


This is how I'm attaching the rods on both ends.


Final mounting to the radiator side.


All done and bolted up. Took me about 2 hours to build them. Came out pretty good and cost about $25 for the stainless rod and hardware.





Mock up pic of how it sits now.

 

Good job...that is one job I did tackle myself upping to 5/16" from 1/4"...and I think It was Stainless as well and it was a bit of a bitch to thread. Cool Hotrod you got going on there @joegio

 

Well done, you sure are a handy guy to have a round.
Do you have a build thread going for this project???

 

Thanks. No, I don't have a build thread I'm planning on starting one soon.

 

Good job. I made some and I agree with Stogy ... they were a bitch to thread. Think I am going to move up to 5/16th rod and follow your lead to redo. Thanks

 

Nice work. You could use similar size or smaller tubing such as brake line tubing or copper to easily bend to required shape and would be easier then all thread. Even solid wire would work and stay with the shapes desired.

 

Great idea on the copper tube or brake line. That would have been much easier to bend/form. Thanks

 

What thread size did you use I agree with what others have said I had a hard time threading the rods. Hobo Jim

 

I used a 5/16-18 tap and tons of cutting oil.

 

Thank you!

 

I recall a Greek philosopher known as Plate who was credited with the quote, the true creator is necessity, who is the mother of our invention.

Today,we all know it has morphed into - "Necessity is the Mother of invention."

Good job. HRP

 

Nice attack with the polish-able stainless rod. 5/16" diameter was best for aesthetics, and bounce-free bracing.
I'd prefer the thread to be 5/16"-24, (S.A.E.) here, for its additional tension. Intense vibrations abound...

 

Nice job, they should do the job and look good at the same time.

 

I did the same thing awhile back. Afterwards I noticed the stock rods appear to be 3/8", so I ordered in some SS 3/8 rods. I intend to cut and thread them one of these days.

 

Good job but being bent like they are I would of thought they would flex really easy and allow the radiator to wobble.
Straight rods work against each other as a structure kind of thing.
Not knocking them,Just a thought.

 

So far seems pretty solid.

 

I used 10mm stainless allthread inside 12mm aluminium tube with female rose joints at each end and aluminium clevis on the firewall and radiator.

Sent from my SM-A520F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Any pics of this set up?

 

nice roadster. you going to try to do your own top?

 

You are onto something because my rad and shell depending on bumps in the road and such shake side to side somewhat violently and I have never thought it was right...not all the time but somewhat frequently...I have a similar problem to @joegio with clearing stuff and may have to plan to somehow use straight bar...based on what you are implying which makes total sense.

So Joegio you may or may not experience what Barrelnose is implying but I sure do. If I raise my back brackets perhaps I can clear my Frogs Mouths...dunno

 

Have you been driving your Hotrod with the setup at speed. I actually can just hit the shell in the garage with the palm of the hand and simulate what happens. Will straight rod eliminate this?...maybe so.

 

Straight rods are immensely strong in tension but rather slender, so they'll flex in compression. Bent rods will flex more, of course, but it's a matter of increasing the diameter a bit to compensate. How much, I can't tell you. If I had to guess, I'd expect proportionate to the developed length of the rod compared to a straight line, plus a bit.

 

I was all excited the shell side to side shake would be gone maybe I have to go 3/8". It's been three seasons of shaking and nothing has busted...but perhaps I'll just lucky...I am sure the lack of a hood doesn't help but this hoodless Hotrod deal is as old as Apple Pie

 

Give me fresh apple pie any day, you can keep the old stuff....
Hahahaha!!!!!

 

I'm away on business today. Will post some later.

Sent from my SM-A520F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

What about a third straight rod right down the middle between the scoops

Sent from my SM-A520F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

My problem is side to side...a rod straight down the center would just go with the flow I am assuming. I have the carbs off right now and am putting things back together...I am going to see if there is clearance above the scoops. The rigid triangle makes sense. It is an intermittent issue not constant...bumpy roads and sudden pothole type hits to one side get things moving...it shakes side to side then stabilizes

 

Stogy, you look to be stuck between a rock and hard place.
Most solutions won't look pretty.
I see a new style of scoop being invented, say 6 into 3... or maybe 2 into 1 should I say.

 

triangulation is the name of the game.a triangle is a very strong shape.an equilateral triangle being the strongest most rigid triangle.(a triangle where all the sides are the same length.since the distance between the firewall and radiator are fixedwhat you can change is the distance between the mounting brackets on the firewall.if you mounted them farther apart nearer the edge of the firewall,it would be a more solid mountand getting nearer an equilateral triangle.the straight rods should clear the carbs.i used stainless tube12mm internal diameter and tapped a I/2inch UNF thread .drill a hole near the end and you can spot weld a stud in there or locktite a stud in there.i used a bolt on the radiator end and shimmed with washers .in comparison my mounts on the firewall are 36 ins apart,the rods are 32ins long I didn't have the originals so I made my own.werent the originals designed to flex a bit.