Technical MACHINIST HELP

Im getting some answers and a few maybes...here is a cross-cut for all interested in the 3/8-24 inverted flare hole im tring to reproduce.

 

I have a buch of these that were use at a shop in Gilroy that manufactured Indian Motorcycles...So someone out there can make these....These are still manufactured although over seas.

 

Just tap to the bottom of the hole. Remember the inverted flare is in the bottom of the hole, so the threads aren't either.

Or see above.

 

The photo in post 31 is something I have seen in auto parts stores. So maybe I have missed something, but are the motorcycle parts the wrong size? Or do you have something else in mind?

 

This is a great idea....I will be using this block on a brake system....safety any thought...JoeH and you maybe on to something.

 

Yes something elese in mind....

 

I can check on having a tool made local. If I had a sketch I could make them.

 

Ok...i sent you a message

 

Why does she have to be inverted flair ?
Can you use an iso bubble flair? Easy to machine and easy to flair and they dont leak,
The fitting is a little different but once it's installed you can't tell.
Iso bubble is used in metric applications.
Very easy to do, my little sister could do them in a drill press

 

Is this what you need?

Check: summitracing.com

Part number: 972050ERL




Phil

 

After you tap to the bottom of hole. Then buy a blind hole tap, make a 1/2 round bore at the bottom of the blind hole tap for clearance around the taper at the bottom of the tap with a die grinder. Tap the hole again with the blind hole tap. This will give you full threads almost all the to the bottom.



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Maybe one of these for the tap’s harden steel



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I will look into this...Thank You

 

After going to the trouble and expense of making these, you will still be faced with the fact that threads in aluminum are not particularly strong.

 

Do you want an aluminum block to make it pretty? The standard brass fitting that pprather, asked about seems to be the most expedient solution. If you used a long thread male fitting and turned a lead on the nose so that it looked like the "Japanese" metric fitting shown above, the threaded part isn't to bad. I don't see how the cutter would be $400. Lots of these things are made somewhere and use the same cutters. Liability issues working on one off brake parts may be a problem.

 

No the part is not for looks although it would clean up the area very nice...I called TriStarEng.com and that is the price i was quoted...Around 400.00 for the tool...I did not think it would be that big of a deal to make this...Yes there are other ways i could plumb the car...At this time I
am still looking into making this block...There are tons of aluminum blocks online most are milled over-seas...The layout will not work for what im doing...Someone in The States has to have a J512 type tool to do this...As i did not know MilHouse...He posted in 2010 he was looking for the same tool....I know many have asked what will the block look like...I will post a pictue later.

 

A guy with some skills would cut that form single point in a lathe in an hour or so. I know I could.

 

Try Bob Rowe Machine Tools in Santa Cruz. He will know some one that can help you.

 

The tool is probably $400 because it is solid tungsten carbide. Meant to make thousands and thousands of parts in production machines.

And it just makes the hole, you have to thread it after.

 

I just got done fixing leaks in a pair of calipers. The calipers had brass inserts in the holes for the inverted flare. I had to pull the inserts out and lap the bottom of the holes with a 45 degree lapping tool that I made to get the seats of the bores to seal and not leak. So you could look into putting a 45 degree bottom in the 3/8 -24 hole and adding a insert with a 45 degree on the top and bottom to make your connection. Most master cylinders come with the same inserts in the ports. (Wilwood does too) Maybe you can find a old master and pull the inserts and see what I am referring too.
Don

 

It has already been suggested but I would go with 1/4" NPT or even better a 1/4" NPT G-port. Takes a bonded seal washer good up to 10000 psi.. Then from there adapt anything you want. Even Detroit Diesel that used inverted flares for years used adapters

 

I understand wanting what you want for whatever reason, I get it.
Many many many of the after market brake accessories come with pipe threads. Residual valves, adjustable portioning valves, brake light pressure switches just to name a few. It comes with pipe threads and you add the fitting you want

 

Im thinking the same..

 

Thank You

 

This is a great idea i did not know there were adapters like this...I will check them out...Thank You

 

I seem to remember those brass seats used to come in a master cylinder rebuild kit.
The master cylinders for drum brakes would have a spring and a rubber check valve to hold the residual pressure in the line under that seat.
The kit would come with a self taping screw you would screw into the seat to use to pull the seat out of the master cylinder.

 

dumprat says he can make what you want quickly enough. Post #47. Maybe you should take him up on it.

 

He is talking about an inverted flare. Its tricky machine work of you don't have the proper tooling. Most job shops are not going to set up to make just one. Last shop I worked at had a 4 hour minimum unless they just knew you which would make it a pretty pricey part.

Best bet is to find a one man operation like someone on the HAMB with machines in the garage type of deal. I can't imagine what the cost of the actual tooling would be an experienced guy could probably set up with a 4 jaw and cut the flare.

Maybe @dreracecar could/would pull it off he's pretty damned good in the shop and he's in Calif Wouldn't hurt to ask.

 

Still waiting for a picture or drawing.


Phil