The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Ron Brown, Oct 17, 2015.
Quit the shock mount you got there. Does it flex and hit the drum when you hit a bump?
no its a shock mount not a spring mount besides its an old pic here it is now
Nice work Ron! Great pictures and info. Tim
When you used the T spring in the rear was it the bottom 5 T leaves and the top A leaf or every second T spring? I'm looking to do this to my coupe next week after having the eyes reversed.
On the rear the only A spring is the small one at the top of the stack...all the rest are T springs. The A spring is .25" wider so I used the top leaf to help center the springs in the spring pocket...you will also see this one leaf is tapered slightly from side to side to fit the contour of the spring pocket.
I make a T-Spring to to A width both in a regular eye and reverse eye.
Yes and I'm buy it one to you Matt
I'm wait it to put it on my A
Hi Ron. I'm building a 30 roadster fender less with a 283 and S10 rear. Using a boxed A frame. Would like to try a T spring behind the rear axle. If I mount the spring at 44 inches hole to hole with model A top leaf do you think it would function and ride well? Thanks Michael
Not sure about the 44" measurement but this spring combo works well for my sedan...should work fine for lighter roadster
Stock model a is 49.5" ive got a 38 banjo in mine,its 48.5",perch to perch. Seven leaves,works great.
yeah. 44 didnt sound right but im not home to measure
this is all with unsplitt wishbones ?
you wrote you had to modifie your rear spring brackets,what exactly you was doing ?
oh and second, centerlink in fron is above or under sthe wishbones ?
no mods to rear spring brackets
I think maybe he was seeing the photos/notes about the lower rear shock mounts.
what did you use for spacers where the rear "U" bolts hold the rear spring in the cross member?
when you used fewer rear leaves...
have a picture?
Actually I took the leaves I didn't use, cut them off about 3" on each side of the center bolt hole and reinstalled them UNDER the main leaf. So the leaf pack is the same thickness as original at the ubolts. So I have one A leaf (first and shortest leaf), four or five T leafs (forgot how many for sure, go back to start of thread) and a T main leaf with reversed eye, and three cut off leafs ( about 6" long) below the main leaf. All bolted together with the center bolt. This worked both front and rear.
Hey Ron. Did you happen to cut down your front fender braces. To give you any more tire clearance? Thanks Ron. Bob..........................
No Bob, they are the stock round cast steel type, not the flat type. Under normal driving, no problems. but I did get the tire to rub a bit a while back turning hard right into a driveway approach while on the brakes. But I have a new, box stock, F150 4x4 that does the exact same thing, so im not concerned. Other than that no issues over bumps or RR tracks or turning right or left, lock to lock.
if your going to bottom , it will be here . I had the same set up & changed to coil overs because of that . spring to rear end housing .
Yeah, im not bottoming in the rear, even on a hard bump....maybe over time but OK as of now
I'm setting up an F-1 rear end in my coupe. Is that shackle angle ok? Are you running a pan hard bar? My understanding was that the shackles need to be flat level to reduce side to side movement.
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So not to be dense but How many leaves, total, do you mean when you say 5. You've said five plus the small one on top and you've said you only removed three leaves... which with the stock spring packs I've had would leave you with seven leaves total.
I took that to be what you meant originally, main leaf + 5 + very top spring. But I did that with my sedan and even though it's probably 700 pounds of interior lighter than yours. As it's still just kinda mocked up, it's quite a bit taller than I expected.
If you had five leaves total I would need to pull two more which would obviously drop is some more. Just looking for some clarity.
~ for what it's worth I'm admiring how the car was with all A springs just before you switched the rear to a T set up.
~also I'm about half asleep but my dog woke me up so please forgive any typos or glaringly obvious things I've missed
Love the low look and would like to get mine to sit similar. I picked up a 4 inch dropped axel yesterday. I threw the 32 spindles on it and it looks like the steering arms will hit the dropped part of the axel before it hits the stops. Did this happen with your set up? Seems it will limit the turning radius. Not a huge deal but I was wondering if you had bent your steering arms or just live with it the way it is. Thanks
Sorry for late update just seen this question....the 32 spindles I reversed the balls and had to bend the arms down slightly to make everything clear, maybe about 1/2" total. The model a spindles had to much bending to make me comfortable. The key here with the 32 spindles is being able to remove the balls, ream the hole and reinstall upside down...moves the tierod down close to 3 inches before heating and bending if needed.
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