lowering blues

I have been working on my 64 F-100 an have a bit of a problem. I lowered the front end by flipping the third leaf, as a post on here suggests, but the springs are just too worn for this to work. I live in a rural area, and I hit the frame stops constantly and the bumpsteer is so bad I can barely keep in on the road. I need new springs for the front, but since I am ordering new, should I get lowering springs? Any body have any luck with mono-leaf springs? I need new springs for the back too, so whichever I get i will get for both. Also, for the bump steer. Is there something to check to help correct this? King Pins? Pitman Arm? Would a steering stabilizer help? Thanks in advance!

 

I hear the parallel mono-leaf springs for the front are nice. Also,you need to bend the pitman arm to get rid of the bump steer. There might be somebody who already makes modified ones. Check Fatman or JAMCO.

 

I have had no luck finding the pitman arm. I really want to steer away from the mustang II route, but i need to get the steering thing under control before i take out the straght 6 in favor of a large v-8.

 

You have to bend the pitman arm or have it done. There was a post here on putting the axle on top of the springs. Looked clean. Lowering springs are nice. Also try for Posie super slides, they are what Im using on my 56 F100.

 

I fliped the axel over the springs on my 61 and had to notch the frame now mounting 302 and also need to address teh bump steer

here is some good info:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=398754

 

really dont want to notch the frame either. if I heat and bend the pitman arm, do i need to quench it or let it cool naturally? i dont want to interfere with its integrity.

 

did fat man fab change their website or something. I sent them an email a week ago and they have not replied yet.

 

Don't quench steering parts, just let cool.

You should talk to Sid at droppedaxles.com.
He's a wealth of knowledge on the early stuff & might be able to help. He's also on this board under "55 Mercury"

 

Sent a mesage to Sid "55mercury" just a minute ago. Has anybody out there used both a dropped axle and monoleaf springs. I think I am going to try that, pending the scrub line it will create.

 

As for the bump steer, it can be pretty bad on these trucks when stock, a steering damper seems to help a bit. Replacing the springs and bushings will help allot.

 

I replaced the bushings on the springs, but the springs are so worn that it is just just a bear to drive down the road, unless the pavement is really flat.

 

Shocks? My 63 bounced all over the place due to the HEAVY 223 and bad shocks. Was better with a big block and new shocks LOL!

 

I have reverse-eye monoleafs on the front of my '60 F100 (i know they're a little different, but the same idea). It drives great, everything clears fine. I also have a steering damper kit on it though.
Next is a dropped axle. When you do dropped axles, they recommend tie rod drop blocks.
Get your springs figured out, then i'd take car of the pitman arm. If you're more comfortable with bolt-on stuff, go for the tie rod drop for $60(droppedaxles.com).

 

The shocks are new Monroe Sensa-trac units. As for the heavy 225, I will be replacing it with a Caddy 500 soon. As for the steeriing damper, do recommend one brand over another?

 

A standard parts store damper would probably work fine, like Monroe. If you're lookin for heavy duty, Rancho or Pro Comp

 

you could always go with a bag setup that would allow you to raise and lower and set your ride height, I have a few specials going on for this month if you'd like to go that route just shoot me a PM

 

If you really want to fix it, bolt in a 2003 or later Crown Vic P71 cop front suspension. This will give you power rack and pinion, disc brakes and a wicked drop. You'll have to run 16" wheels to clear the brakes.

 

Dropped I beam is the way man. Get a steering stabilizer and clal it a day. I cruise at 75 on the highway and drive with one hand. I have a 352 as well.

 

How low is your drop whitey? are your springs stock? Either way I need new springs so it doesn't matter.
I have been chatting with a few guys around here and they suggest I get that caddy motor in there so I can get the ride height I want with the motor I will be running. I dropped the truck using springs because it was quick and I could get it done in a day and still be a driver, but I have a backup now, so I can yank the axle if nessesary.

 

Definitely use a dropped axle and keep your suspension for the necessary travel.

You can easily do the swap in a day or so, but you will want to drop the motor your going to use when you set up the suspension for ride comfort, find tuning ride height etc..

 

sounds like a winner to me. ordered the steering stabilizer, and will be talking to sid i a day or two (pending the paycheck).