Love is.......The Feburary Banger Meet

It is snowing here.... I mean this with love
YOU SUCK ....

 

If you take a pic. with a cell phone it makes your car look like it is going real fast.

 

FRO,
I had a similar issue with water outlet position. I used a A to Early V-8 adapter and '32-'36 V-8 water pump. I had to rotate mine @ 45 deg. to make it work, but if you had problems with yours, the un-modified A-V-8 pump set up would work great for yours.

 

I drove my car to Bob's Broiler tonight. It was @ 65 degs when I left the house @ 5:45. When I got home @ 8:45 is was a brisk 52 deg. BURRRRRR.

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It about 85 degs 3 feet from my fire place. I wish I got to drive my car today.

 

i figured somebody would be a smart ass
it's been above 50 maybe 1 or 2 days in the past 2 months here..... but it will be warm soon.. i hope!

 

slow down there, that chick is gonna fly off your dash and hit the back window!! i wish i could see green on the roadsides... all i see is either some shade of brown or some shade of white...

 

Hi Tim. In my Fordor I've run a 3.54 for a couple of years now. First with a stockasfarasiknow A engine, now with a mild B engine. 7.50 x 16 firestones and now 6.50 x 18 firestones. It's been just fine geared like that. even on cross country trips where there's some really steep hills that don't exist out my way...

And the big barn door that it is can still muster a 22.5@57 quarter. No ball of fire but surprising none the less.

 

www.fastfourspecial.com. You might want to look at the Montana Fast Four info. His is running and very well. There is another being built that I hear from sometimes. As for those who said that brazzing wouldn't work with out leaking, they were wrong. But since then I had some welding done in the combustion chamber of the Morton & Brett head and the new rod is the hot setup. Weld it. I believe that a 1919 Dodge is a 3 main bearing engine. My later engine has 5. Also I think yours may be a 12 volt system with the giant starter generator and a cone clutch. If you can find a '26 and up engine they are a better choice IMHO.

 

thanks rich. I'm going to pick the stuff up coming thursday and saturday (two loads) and I'm very anxious to start messing around with it.
I've played a bit with a 1927 chevy four, but never a Dodge. good thing is, I'll have two engines. and I'm not paying much, so I think this will be a good start for me. I've been looking around for some info on these engines but can't find anything. would you have any idea where I get something like a shop manual? I want to read some before I start pulling things apart.
one advantage I may have: I make a living buying and selling parts, so I got some pieces to experiment with for interchanging parts.
the idea is to build something like a speedster / racer that I can drive on the street, and would look like it could run Indy in the early 1920ies.

 

Bad news!!! I decided it was time to fix my rear main oil leak and clean up my engine (B block). When I removed the rear main cap, the babbit on the cap was cracked and missing in some areas. I took the crank out and the other journals look great. The babbit on the rear main in the block looks great also. I really only need to have the cap babbited. I have a friend who has all the tools to hone the babbit to the crank if I can just find a place to babbit just the cap. I've called some places and they all what to babbit the bare block. I really don't need to whole block done. Anyone have some suggestions on places to get babbit done on just the cap?? I've also considered having the block machined for inserts. The engine is a B block, C crank with pressured oil on the mains, and a Cragar head.

 

guess I better join...keeping the banger in the 30' Cabriolet...

 

What is the diameter of the main? I have an extra cap with good babbit.

 

The diameter is standard 2". Thanks!

 

Seetz, welcome the world of DBs. I have a '24, which is similar to your '19. Most of what Rich told you is gospel except DB only used a cone clutch in '15 and early '16. You should have a multi disc clutch, maybe 5 discs.

 

Good decision. Welcome. More pictures when you can.

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This is what I want to do eventually, I'm goin to the swap meet Sat in hopes of finding a police head or a lower comp aluminum head and a few other parts, here's a few pics for bcchopit, I dont have any real good ones, waiting for spring, thats funny my car ran22.51@56 mph at the hamb drags, I check this thread every day, this spring I'm gonna have some questions for you all, thanks for the great info. Jeff.

 

I cut one end off of a throttle rod like the one below and put a 90 degree bend it in.



I lined up the throttle rod with the choke lever on the Stromberg Carb to the firewall. Drilled a hole in the firewall where I wanted the rod to go through.



The 90 Degree bend on the other end acts as a finger pull. Reach over to the inside passenger firewall under the tank, pull back and that's your choke. When the car fires up, push the choke back toward the firewall.

I got sick of choking, jumping in, starting, jumping back out un choking, jumping back in as the car is dying, jumping back out, choking, jumping back in, starting, over revving, jumping back out to un-choke.... pull out of driveway, car dies, jump back out... heheh

 

We dont drive in snow, what is this snow your talking about?

 

Sounds like noboD is the guy to talk to. I only know what I found in the '26 that I have. And i usually through away almost everything and make new anyway.

 

Looks like salt,tastes like water, but it's COLD and wet and even more slippery , .... or so I've been told.

 

snow can be real fun

 

Your car looks like a lot of fun...FRO
thanks for the pics
Bill

 

Andyg wrote--

"i need some advice on repairing the crack on the outside of my banger....any ideas. it's out, but i've not tore it down yet.'

In past years I fixed a couple different A and B blocks that were cracked on the outside bottom of the water jacket (a common place to crack when the block freezes) by grinding the crack into a 90 deg groove, cleaning and drying perfectly and trowling Devcon steel putty into the crack. Never had one releak, in fact the last block that I did that way, in 1961 , was taken out of service because of combustion chamber cracks about 1965, and has been sitting bare, out in the weather ever since. It wasn't until about 15 years ago that the Devcon started to peel out of the crack. Wont work inside the chamber or cylinder, or where under stress (around head bolts for example) but in the area described, it is easy, cheap, and works.

Herb Kephart

 

Thanks Elrod, i may have been overthinking the whole thing, might just have to go your route, it's probably the cleanest looking.

i think this picture should be on the "Banger Pics" wall of fame, i smile every time i look at it... it's just sittin back there like it didnt just do a figure 8 in the snow

 

He ain't kidding...



More of the same here>>>

 

What is the "new" rod?

 

Well I guess "New" is a relitive term. It's new to me. But for more information I can only direct you to Weld Tech. in Redwood City.

 

These are great racers. That whole building was something to see. I'm glad I made it out this year.

BTW, I'd see your p/u on Saturday but you where now where to be found. Did you go out all 3 days?

 

My Feburay update:-

I went to a swap meet out here today (it is summer after all ) sold a whole heap of stuff I was no longer interested in keeping, and bought myself a fan to flywheel early 28 banger.

I'm in the middle of sorting out a deal for a T5 trans with a S10 shifter to run in an A frame and I'm going to slip it under my 29 coupe.

I'm holding off on the Stovebolt stuff until next hot rod!!!!