Projects Late 60's Vintage Modified

I believe you do not want to use copper tube for brake lines. It is not meant to deal with the pressure that can be built up in brake lines. If it is not recommended to handle shop air lines from a 200 psi compressor, and your MC can easily exceed that. If its copper clad OK but if its copper made for water lines, I think I would change it.

 

I believe it just has some copper cladding to the outside, can't remember what the actual material is, but it is specifically for brake lines.

 

Looks Super, Shaun . .... I keep thinking you need to get some fence post tops and fill the open pipe ends. They are aluminum ,I think. Bullet shaped ...

 

Maybe a coon tail as well. Looking forward to the lettering.

 

It's coming along Which pipe ends would those be though?? Pretty sure I capped them all off on the nerf bars, roll cage, and where the pipe for the rear bumper hooks to the frame (someone else already capped off the vertical pipes on the rear bumper)..

 

I guess you did looks good , not to put a few miles on it.....

 

Here's a car that ran during the heyday here in Fresno Bako area of California. This was at LA Roadster show last weekend. Figured you guys subscribed to this thread like me are some of the only guys who get it and appreciate seeing these old racers. The guy who owns the car went through everything mechanically and made it very sound again but retained the field fresh look amazingly well.






Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app

 

Awesome, thanks for sharing! Real neat looking old jalopy... Really looks great. To be honest I like to look at original/untouched cars then restored ones..

I wish mind had been in good enough shape to leave it as-is and just go through the mechanicals... But it was a bit beyond that point!

An old timer once told me "You can restore something as many times as you like... But it's only original once"

 

Just a quick update...

Got the wiring about 90% done- just need to do the speedometer, windshield wiper (waiting on the windshield itself), and then I have to re-do the front turn signals (for some reason changing the old sealed beams to new ones made it so the amber light couldn't be seen from the front?!).

Anybody from NH happen to know if parking lights are required?

Yesterday I managed to take it for it's first real test drive (sshhhh don't tell the cops!)... Wasn't too far, just a 1/2 mile or so up a dirt road- BUT it was still nice to get out of 1st gear for a change! Overall went pretty good, needed to adjust the clutch (think I've got that figured out now), and do some more brake work. I've got most of the brakes figured out now (finished my parking brake tonight), but the master cylinder is still kind of bugging me.

The brakes don't seem to do much until the pedal is about 1/2 way, and I if I really push, I can push it right to the end- doesn't really seem to pump up either.... But it'll still lock up the brakes when I push in far enough- does that sound right??



(Still have to tidy up the wires!)

 

Thats just awesome Shaun. No help on the brakes, I have a similar master cylinder, so I am hoping thats not the prob. I guess check to make sure it has built in residual valves, double check your brake adjustment. Parking lights are usually just that, for parking only, and in the front on when the headlights are off (first detent on a switch that has a separate lug for parking lights). Now if you were using those little lights as turn signals as well, then being washed out may be a problem. This is too cool, congrats on your road trip that never happend....

 

I'll have to look up the master cylinder again to see if it has residual valves... Perhaps its just a bit of air left though?

 

Back to the basics Shaun,,
http://www.piratejack.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=11:typical-brake-system-configurations&catid=12:tech-support&Itemid=18

 

It seemed to lock up all 4 wheels without any trouble the first few times I tested the brakes... Although the last time it seemed a little bit more spongy.

I looked up the master cylinder I bought (NAPA Part # M2040) and it was for a variety of GM vehicles- and from what I can tell, they were all drum/drum cars, so I assume the residual valves are built into it?

 

The Sandwich NH show is July 13th...you going to make that one?

 

Go easy on me guys, this was my first time numbering a car:

 

Tried several more times today and no luck... When we bleed the front brakes all of my pedal goes away though- won't pump up or anything. But when someone takes the top off of the MC, I regain pedal (actually MORE pedal then if the cap was still on)...

It'll hopefully be on the road by the 4th as I would like to take it out to a local show being put on by a car club I'm a member of. Planning on registering it/getting insurance on it, but still need to figure out these brakes before I go anywheres...

I think Sandwhich is a bit far for me though (at least in this car), and I've always hated trailering things... But never know, may change my mind!

 

Shaun ya did good....actually great!!!! That thing looks so good, very impressed. And I dont think anybody would fault you for trailering that....it is, after all, a bona fide race car!

Damn I hope you get your brakes sorted....this very subject is one of my biggest fears and dreads with my build.
BTW, which ports on the master do you have going to the front and back?

 

Thanks Louie!

On the MC, I have the rear going to the rear, and front to the front. They look like the same size resevoir though... That might be part of the problem though.

What I can't understand is this: when we're bleeding the brakes and I'm pumping them up, as soon as a helper bleeds a front brake I lose ALL of my pedal- will not pump up even slightly. But then when they take the top off of the master cylinder, I re-gain my pedal?? The pedal even seems a little better with the top off...

 

And you're worried over the numbering job??!! Damn that's impressive!

 

Shaun ,That is AWESOME ! I'm glad you did the numbers yourself. You can be proud. .

 

Question Shaun ,,, Were the shoes arced to the drums ? I not they may need to wear in the fit properly.

 

Thanks guys... Kinda glad I ended up doing them myself too- one more thing I can tell people I did when they ask.

No they were not arched to fit... May be part of the problem..



Also, got the car registered today! Went with a vanity plate- do you guys think the license plate "DIRT" would be appropriate?? Haha..

After putting my plate on (only a paper one will I get the real one in a couple weeks), I was able to take it for it's first TRUE test drive. The brakes are still pretty soft so I was careful, but still went about 12 or so miles. Aside from the brakes I only had a few issues with the car, and it was actually real fun to drive, didn't handle bad, and really didn't ride super rough.

One problem I did have was with my transmissiong getting stuck in 3rd gear?? Whenever I pulled over it was quite a process to get it out of gear- engage/disengage the clutch, and sort of "slam" it out... Wonder what's causing that??

 

Very cool, ive got a 30 chev roundy round car that was ran in the mid to late 60's, and i'm planning on redoing it too. Good job!

 

Awesome Shaun.....CONGRATS!!!

 

Thanks! Happen to have any pictures of it?? Would love to see it...

Thanks Louie!

 

Shaggy! X 2 on the photo request!

 

Cool! "Dirt" very appropriate.
Did you use the existing chassis # to register it?

 

Woohoo! Congratulations!

 

Yep, had it verified by an inspection station, and then he stamped the numbers on the front of the frame so they're easier to find

Thanks! Glad to see another NH member here!

 

Just read all 19 pages, Very nice build/research!! Lettering fits the build up.

Congratulation's on staying with your original race car theme with only slight alterations for street use.

Earl