Technical Late '32, '33-'34 Rear wishbone with SBC and Open Drive?

Any opinions on whether late '32, '33-'34 rear wishbone can withstand a mild SBC/open drive?

The wishbone would be intact, mounted to a single point, triangulated...

Torque arm needed?

Thanks!

 

No, not strong enough, even with a torque arm...imo

 

Ok, 117harv - why not strong enough? The torque arm is made to handle the torque formerly handled by the torque tube.

 

The torque tube also "pushes" the car.

 

The tubes are thin sheet metal rolled and aren't welded at the meeting point. They are strong enough for their factory intended use, they alternate between tension and slack ever so slightly as the car is driven. The torque tube is strong and fixed, it too is under flex, tension and compression while driving but by its shape can take these forces.

A torque arm depending on how it's made could replace the tube but most are one tube or two that converge with some sort of gusseting in between. A two tube torque arm will provide no lateral support, yes that's what the two factory bones are for, but to rely on them to take up the additional stress is asking them to do more than they can. Others opinions may vary.

 

What do you mean "pushes" David?

 

When the wheels roll forward -against the weight of the car - the force is connected to the car via the torque tube and the spring mount.

 

Really?

 

Do you guys think triangulated DOM tubing would be enough without a torque arm?

 

Think about it, on a torque tube early Ford, what else is the differential connected to the car with other than the front torque tube ball and the spring mount in the middle of the cross member (not counting the lever shocks)?

At a dead stop, you let out the clutch, the wheels try to turn and have to overcome the weight of the car before it will move. From the engine to the tyre patch, all the forces go through the drive line which as I say, only has two connection points and the torque tube takes most of it.

 

There's no 'slip joint' on a Ford torque tube. Rear axles pushes the tranny forward, via the rigid torque tube.

 

I have '40 style bones on the rear of my car, They are shortened of course and pivot under the trans mount. I don't use a torque arm and have no problems with it. 283/turbo.8" rear. Tim

 

Let's step back and not try to second guess the OP. We don't know how he wants to put it all together.
Here are 2 ways:
1. Bob Drake -
"Designed to increase the strength of the radius rod system in early Fords. PLEASE REVIEW THE RELATED PARTS HRW-1105 and HRW-1151: When the stock torque tube housing is removed, the radius rods are left to absorb all of the acceleration and deceleration torque of the car. The torque arm kit solves that problem. The kit has a bracket that bolts to the banjo housing and a bracket that welds to the radius rod. The torque arm attaches to these two brackets to triangulate the rear radius rods and strengthen the system."
2. Speedway -
"Steel radius rods for rear suspensions. Made from DOM steel tubing and includes "S" stiffener (requires welding) which gives the arm greater strength to withstand hard acceleration. Chrome and stainless units have the stiffener welded in place. All holes are tapped 5/8" RH fine thread. Use 5-3/4" bracket for clevis mount center bolt spacing."

I built a 32 3w in the late 50s with a SBC, 38 Cad/LaSalle open drive trans and 48 Ford panel open drive center section in a 40 Ford rear with 32 spring. I made my own hairpins and drove it hard, Never had a problem.