The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by riceman, Apr 22, 2011.
Excellent choice for your next project. Looking forward to following your progress. Regards, Chase
" IT'S THE HACK BROS. HOUR "
Brought to you by Chips Ahoy. Today at Hack Bros. we opted for a Double G-Job with the only cost involved was 2 1/2 NF Jamnuts and 1/2 Aurora Alloy Heim Joints. This did not break the budget at $65.00
We'll be right back after this commercial break.
The 1st G-Job was to get the Heim Joint ends done. 3/4 x 3'' 4130 Rod drilled and tapped for 1/2-20 x 1 1/2'' deep, with 45 degree chamfered ends. Total cost was a Breakfast Burrito off the Roach Coach.
It just so happens that this Hack Bro are friends with a Tube Bending Company that just happens to have 3/4 x .058 4130 SCRAP Tubing that took moments to SCRAP out. 4 pieces with 2'' x 90 degree radius bends and 34'' legs appeared in the Hack Bros. truck bed. OH GEEEZZZZ ! Cost was Scrapped out.
We get home and have a Beer break. Feed the Bark-A-Lot and off to the Hack Bros. garage. The first tube was clamped and leveled out in the ACME 5'' vice. The Blue Dychem is applied to the cut area, scribed the cut line and....
We'll back right back after a few words from Mad Max....." What is for Dinner ?.....FOOD " !
We reach for the Tool of all Hack Bros. ......THE PORTABLE HACKSAW. CAREFULLY POSITIONED BY PRECISION EYEBALLING...The trigger is pulled, clang-ching-done. This highly technical process is repeated. Debur the cut ends and....
Sorry we ran out of time, so tune in to the Hack Bros next time to finish the Kent Fuller Hairpin Radius Rods
Thanks Chase ! Masters & Richter was from my hometown, San Leandro, Ca. So this was a no brainer build.
Thanks for the kind words for the Brissette Recreation.
I crewed on m and rs car when sammy hale drove it in 64 ..
Icrewed on m& rs ncar when sammy hale drove it in 1964.sammy and I pulled bob haines out of the upside down car in 3 feet of water after the chute broke at half moon bay and he went off the end and landed in the creek his first words after we got his helment and mask were that water tastes like piss, tough guy
Wow!!!! This is cool. Welcom to the HAMB!!!
Sid Masters, Big Bob Haines and maybe Rick Richter are racing together up in Drag Racers Heaven. 5 years ago Rick Ritcher was still alive, but I haven't been able to connect him. I am still searching.
Crewman Lefty Hay is still around in Hayward. It is important to have the people who raced this Fueler involved, Thanks Imposter. So the only one I feel to approve of me replicating the M & R Fueler is the BUILDER, KENT FULLER, which he has done.
Thanks again, Riceman
how many fed do you have ?.the speed record in 1964 was 196 and change.trying to find the lucky strike of britain commercial we made with the car in 64 who has it?sammy waved at the camera in the lights at 185 and almost rolled it left slick 1 ft. off the ground and going over and chute popped and straighten it out those were the days
The recreated Jim Brissette 1964 1/2 Woody Gilmore AA/FD so far is the only one. The Masters & Richter 1963 Kent Fuller AA/FD will be # 2
Different eras, different builders and a continued education in Drag Racing.
If any of you are wondering how to secure the VW torsion bar inside the tube, this is how I did it. Remember this Fueler will never see a full allout pass.
1.500 x .065 4130 tube was used for the torsion bar suspension body, so the inside diameter is 1.370'' ( 1 3/8 almost) The torsion bar is .748'' square.
You go to your hardware store and find a 3/4'' drive long socket which I found had a deeper 3/4'' drive female end than a short socket. Measure the outside diameter of a 15/16 socket, 3/4 drive and that is what I started with. It measured at 1 3/8'' O.D.
Cut off the 3/4'' drive end of the socket with the favorite Hack Bros. tool, the Portable Bandsaw. Smooth off the end on a beltsander and debur the edged so the torsion bar won't wear cut itself. Test fit inside the tube
Create a small width flat spot parallel to the 3/4 drive hole flat surface inside. This is where there is the thickness part of the socket is. Measure to the center and center punch it. Drill for a 5/16 fine thread and tap.
I measured the length needed for the torsion bar and cut it to length. Mark the center of it. Slide the now 3/4 socket end on the the torsion bar to the center so that the tapped hole is against the flat side of the VW flat spring. I wrapped masking tape on both side to keep it in place.
I measured to the center of the Torsion bar tube to where I needed to drill a 5/16 hole for a Grade 8, 5/16 Fine Thread Bolt. I located the hole in a preload postion having the arms about 3/8'' lower at the front.
Slide in the torsion bar with the securing socket end, line up with the drilled 5/16 hole in the tube and screw in a 5/16 Fine Thread bolt with a Grade 8 Nut. Torque the bolt against the torsion bar at 20 ft/lbs and tighten the nut against the tube to lock it inplace.
The Arms on a Fuller Torsion bar setup are 3/8 and have a 3/4 square hole in the center that is a tight slide fit.
You can use a 3/4'' steel bar, heat treated to 39 on the Rockwell C scale or a 4130 bar instead of the VW torsion bar. Car weight on the front end and torsion bar arm length will control the twist rate.
Glad to see the zip ties are back!!!!! Full steam ahead!!!
LMAO, I bought another 100..
Damn things are handy!
M&R @ San Gabe
Great Pictures, thank you
Roger! Nice to see you back at it! In quite a bigger scale, but, building again!! Nice!
Is this not the same car that some folks thought became the Millner car from More American Grafitti?
This Fueler was NEVER in M.A.G.. Good to hear from you.
Hmmmmmmm . . . saw that they ran two different injectors - that last picture shows a Hilborn 4-port. Which version are you going to be running? Also, which injector did they use in later years and achieve the best tune/times with? Just curious!
The version I plan to build is with the Enderle Barndoors Injectors. As for performance goes, the Hilborns were easier to "Backpedal" and throttle control....I have both injectors. I haven't researched enough to get E.T.s from the early 1964 season.
The best E.T. I found in this Fueler's 112'' wheelbase configuration is 7.89 at Fremont in late 1963. After the first of 3 chassis lengthings, tire and clutch improvements would make the car quicker, but that doesn't count in the version I am building.
Chute Pack Body, Kent Fueler's are the best!!!
Roger (riceman) -
Just stumbled upon this thread ... I really think it's awesome that you're recreating one of my all-time favorites! ...
The Masters & Richter Top Fueler @ Fremont - January 1964
... Please keep us updated on your progress.
That's a bitchin picture!!! Too Cool....
What does the arm pivot on? Is there a portion that fits inside the 1.500 tube, or does the arm slide against the inside of the bolts, or is there a bushing around the torsion bar, or ???
Nice work - great car. Thanks for the pics and descriptions!
The torsion arms locate with the 3 bolt shank surfaces and pivot against the end plates. The nuts for the end plate bolts are steel aircraft mini lock nuts. The arm contact surfaces are lubicated with Vasoline.
The end plates are tighten just enough so you can feel the surface resistants went moved.
Here is a peek of the progress. Details tomorrow
More progress today. If my tubing order had come, I would have it completed and ready to tack. I cleaned off the blood. My DNA is now officially on my chassis.
The motor angle is 5 degrees down and 24'' from the motorplate to the centerline of the rearaxle.
The Fixture Jig is 2 pcs, 4'' I-beam with a 5/16 center web,2 pieces 8 ft long, 1 x 2'' x 48''(F) and 30''(R) long rect bar for axle locaters, 3/8 x 6 x 24''(F) and 3/8 x 24 x 30''(R) plates for front and rear chassis support.
You could clamp this altogther, but I bolted it altogther with 3/8-16 Nuts and Bolts. I made clamping plates to bolt together the two lengths of I-beam out of 1/4 plate, 5 bolts on each side and the full width of the center beam. The long edges of the clamping plates are radius to match the inside center beam to keep the 2 piece in alignment.
The vertical axle locaters are made from 1/4 x 2.00 x 9.000 and 1/4 x 4 x 16 Rect Bar. 1/8 x 1 3/4 Steel Angle 2'' long are used to attach the vertical plates.
All the materials are 6061-T6 Aluminum except as noted, The 4'' I-beam bottom is ground level starting point. With the chassis supporting all the added weight you will be surprised what you end up with. My Woody Fueler has 2 3/4'' ground clearence at 1200 pounds.
Riceman, how come the motor is soooo far out? Ha,ha. A little further than your back motor Woody car!!! Things are looking great.
And the seat is 1 1/2'' farther back and 5'' lower. I finished up cleaning the wheels and 10.00-16 M & H Slicks. Oh so nice !
Thing's are looking fantastic as always!
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