Keeping that Original Paint Barn Fresh Look

Best post on this thread next to the GIBBS recomendations - finding that finsh under the brushed on house paint is like finding the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.....

 

Patina is a made up term by guys on Ebay to inflate the price on rusty old unfinished cars. I don't remember seeing rusty hotrods in any of the old Bonneville pictures or vintage picture threads. We all agree it's your car and hope you keep it on the road and drive the snot out of it.

Rant said, I would stay away from CLR. I've tried cleaning with it and it was more work than it was worth. If you're going to paint it ever then I wouldn't use oil based products. I think your gonna be stuck with a scotch brite/wire brush and a bunch of manual labor.

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Very coool post. Good info !!!!!!!

 

Here's a nice patina'd car. It's a Ford though, so no one will suggest to repaint it. LoL. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=757489

 

very unique coupe;love it! I'm with the party that says paint it. You can still put a very traditional paint job on it and have it look great (nothing too shiney). Once paint flakes off and rust starts...there is no way to stop it (especially in the climate around here!!). You have a very unique, cool coupe...preserve it

 

If you go the WD40 route....might have a hard time getting paint to stick later if you decide to paint it.

 

I saw the weberized slant six on another thread, and thought "hey, thats pretty cool". For a flat back rudy.... a weberized leaning tower of power is pretty cool.

 

See what I mean?---->http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=764120

If it's a Ford, the crappy paint and rust is to be cherished and preserved. If it's anything else, "the rust needs to go". LOL.

 

satin clear?

 

Its your car, DO WHAT YOU LIKE. I get so tired of these assholes screaming paint it , their shit buckets have paint and still look like junk that cant get out of its own shadow on the street. Your car will get way more looks done your way than with a paint job. VERY NICE CAR !! and its not a T bucket of shit. plus a quality paint will run 5to7 thousand you can drive it along time with that cash. mark

 

I don't mean to beat a dead horse, so bear with me. I don't want to open a new thread either, so OP please forgive me for robbing your thread.

My '50 Ford has mostly great original paint. The front fenders are the worst, with red oxide showing through in places. The sides, the roof and the hood still have a nice shine. There are a few scratches and dents as you would expect on a 62 year old unmolested car with 56,000 miles. There a few rust spots that WILL be properly addressed in the near future. They will be spotted in with primer until the car eventually sees paint, and would appear as a high school kid's car in '62.

Yes, I intend to PRESERVE the car the way it looks now until its eventually painted. Although a good wax would likely preserve most of it, how do I preserve the areas that don't have great paint, i.e. front fender tops?

Would a clear coat give me the few years I'm looking for? If so, what would be compatible with the original paint/primer?

 

get some lacquer mixed to match and "spot blend" it in. then buff it up. prep with 400 grit wet, after paint use 600 lightly, then buff.

 

Spray it down with Mop & Glo. Leaves a nice acrylic coating that you can respray if it wears away.

Bob

 

Here's a members 61 Parkwood wagon before and after CLR. A quick coat of clear over the finished product.

 

What a great ride that Parkwood is! My question is, wouldn't you have to sand prior to a clear coat? I don't see it sticking if not... then you end up with peeling clear coat AND old paint to deal with. How does it hold up?