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Hot Rods Just Another 5-Window Build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by TomT, Jul 13, 2015.

  1. You just keep chipping away, making progress. Forward momentum is good. I really like the dashboard!
     
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  2. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
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    TomT
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    BrEad - thanks. The dash really did come out nice. Funny how it all just fell together really - I had some boat dual gauges I was going to use with a mis-matched speedo since I could not find one to match .... strange how things fall into place ....

    Thanks for all your likes - it keeps me motivated!
     
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  3. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
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    Got some time on the project the last coupke days - I finished the under the seat tray. I moved the cutoff switch to the outside right by the driver seat belt mount. Easier to get to and a cleaner look as I needed a bulkhead if I were to flatten the trunk floor or not to keep stuff from running into the seat. Pics to come ....
    rps20171126_192532-2.jpg
    rps20171126_192633-2.jpg

    Also removed the front floor pan I made to help finalize the pedal setup and run the speedo cable. Then that's it - I can remove all the bolts and obstructions to removing the body. This also includes a pretty thorough garage cleanup as well. I am happy with my progress so far and I should make my Dec 16 deadline ....
     
  4. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
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    More progress today - ran the speedo cable basically going down the driver side framerail and up into/through the firewall ...
    rps20171127_182430-2.jpg
    rps20171127_182755-2.jpg
    rps20171127_182925-2.jpg
    The rubber grommet is just something I had lying around and I think will stop most if not all the moisture getting into the car. The hose clamp reduces the grommet opening to the cable size and keeps the grommet in place.

    With the front floor pan out I got into cleaning up the pedal setup. The brake pedal arm was at an angle and the clutch linkage arm on the pedal setup was way too short. So I first set the pedal arm in it's "at rest" position, measured the crosshaft arm from center to center and duplicated that on the short pedal arm. This sets both moving in more or less the same arc ...
    rps20171127_183713-2.jpg
    .... and the linkage rod will be parallel to the ground. Thanks to johnrodz I was able to drill one hole that with my limited tools I could not do - thanks, Brother! I then straightened out the arms so they swing up and down parallel to one another.
    rps20171127_183856-2.jpg
    I will trim and shape the top of the extended arm next time. I also need to heat and bend the brake pedal arm par mount so the pad does not interfere with the firewall. Once those two items are done I will wait to final weld and install the setup for when my actual motor and trans are installed "just in case".

    Stopped by the machine shop where my engine is being built where final checks are being made for initial startup. I am stoked to hear this thing!
     
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  5. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
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    Worked more on the pedals today. Having a tough time getting the brake pedal swing in a nice arc where it comes through the floor. I'm close but it looks like the 4th time may be a charm - I hope!
     
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  6. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
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    rps20171130_201055-2.jpg Got the pedals straight today - turns out, I needed to use all 5 if the bolt locations to check pedal travel, not just two. Just using two did not mount it properly. Geesh - lol!
    rps20171130_135646-2.jpg
    rps20171130_140752-2.jpg
    Second pic shows the pedals in the at rest position. My plan is to use the rubber bumpers like the 40 cars did .....
    I cleaned up the front floor board and since it was a beautiful day out, decided to throw some paint on it. When drying, I turned to the trunk lid tray to install the two drain holes and the decklid bumpers ...
    rps20171130_200105-2.jpg
    rps20171130_200135-2.jpg
    I had some 1/4" brake line and cut off a piece from either end about 5" long. Since brake line has that nice flare on it I painted them up and used some rubber line I had around to guide water through the two drain holes ...
    rps20171130_200655-2.jpg
    rps20171130_200719-2.jpg
    They will get epoxied in later. For the trunk lid bumpers I like to use adjustable axle snubbers. First, once installed they were the perfect height leaving no room for the trunk lid to vibrate. Second, they are actually cheaper and easier to install than the stock units.
    Installed the now dry front floor piece ...

    rps20171130_201553-2.jpg
    I didn't paint the area I need to clean up but with the pedals now set, that's next ...
    I also painted the under the seat pan and slipped it in place as well ....
    rps20171130_201235-2.jpg
    I have some fender welting I will use to seal up the back edge of the front pan and run some type of glass or non-water based sealer for the seat pan before final install ...
    rps20171130_201553-2.jpg
    She is looking better and better - my "body on" to-do list is done but since I have the time, I keep adding to it ....

    Getting there ....
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2017
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  7. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
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    Had a busy last weekend so not much more than cleaning up of the shop was done, getting ready for December 16th and the body swap. I can finally see the top of my work bench so that's a good thing.

    Biggest news is that my engine e has been fired up and is running! She sounds great and so far so good save for a slight leak at the oil filter adapter. Cam is broken in, throttle response is good, good oil pressure, no anomalies. My machinest will run it again for a while, making sure there are no issues. He will then drop the oil, clean out the pan checking for particles, and cut open the oil filter looking for any issues. Hopefully there will not be any, button it back up, fire it up and run it for a while again and then I take her home!

    I do not have any video as yet but if you are on Facebook, look up Jimmy's Engine Service and 59 Buick motor and you can see the video he took of the startup. Great stuff!

    Moving forward one inch at a time ...
     
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  8. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
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    Sorry for not posting for a bit - I've been working, however, on making sure I am ready for the body swap tomorrow and doing some small things on the front floor pan and the under the seat pan. I was also cleaning out the garage and body dolly ...
    rps20171215_191819-2.jpg
    rps20171215_191756-2.jpg
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    Biggest problem was finding "safe" places to have the radiator, grille and shell, hood tops, seat, and so on. They will not be on the car for awhile and my garage is running out of room! It will be real fun when the suspension is out but I will cross that bridge when I get to it.
    I will have pics of the swap tomorrow .....

    Another major move forward .....
     
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  9. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 1,592

    Fortunateson
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    Just curious why you have the interior stringers on your body dolly on the flat as I would think that could lead to deflection..
     
  10. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
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    I see your point. I don't know why, really - it has had the body on it before and did well. I did add legs in the middle/outside of the dolly for added support as it was bowing length wise. I will keep an eye on it though ...
     
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  11. Looking great. :)
    Your garage reminds me of being on a nuke sub; there's just enough space for storage, or to do maintenance, but not both simultaneously. :mad:
     
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  12. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
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    Haha - isn't that the way all car guy garages are?!?!?! Lol!
     
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  13. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
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    Well, I had the Magnificent Seven come by today to help move my body off the frame: jacksandeuces, johnrodz, Gabby, and my buddies Butch, Kevin, Lee, and Glen rounded out the crew. Once we had things lined up it took less than one minute to make the switch - but the BS session afterwards was and still is priceless!
    rps20171216_144907-2.jpg
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    Now I can't wait to get at doing all I have to do!
     
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  14. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
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    Didn't have too much time in the garage today but made some progress. With the body off, the back side of the dash and gauges is very easy to access. So, I started getting wires ready fir when the body goes back on. This way I am not having to lie on my back to do this stuff. I set up the two speed fan switch in my column mount, sorted out my signal wiring, made locations for some interior lighting, and worked out a location for the heater valve. I also mounted my heater box to the firewall making sure I had enough clearance to connect the heater hoses from the engine side to the heater box. I could never really tell before ....

    I also checked what I had around for my clutch pedal push rod. I have an original threaded rod and clevis and even with in turned in all the way it's too long. I ordered a shorter clevis and although I can't decide on length until all the clutch items are all installed, I am close

    I also played with the cowl vent setup. I had posted that the hinge was incorrect but jacksandeuces didn't seem to think so. I removed the hinge that came in the car and installed the 32 hinge I had. The ratchet arm is now in a straight line but it does not seem to be correct - seems way too long. Although pics never really tell the tale, the arm, although close, does not seem to be correct. So I ordered that and a few other things - we'll see how things are when it gets in ...

    Sorry no pics but I am making progress. ...
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2017
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  15. TomT
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    So I got the 32 cowl vent ratchet arm. It is about 1/2" shorter but had to modify it further. I shortened it about 3/8" as it was still running into the back of the gauges and drilled a new spring hole just beyond the deek in the arm ...
    rps20171222_180853-2.jpg
    I then had to modify the last notch of the arm where the ratchet arm would normally be when the vent is closed. After a bit of trial and error I have it closing pretty good - at least until the first rain storm and my feet get wet!
    Here are two pics of the wiring I mentioned in my last post ...
    rps20171222_180920-2.jpg
    rps20171222_180943-2.jpg
    I also mentioned the heater box last time. I played with the engine hoses through the firewall but that was it today ....
    rps20171222_181009-2.jpg
    So when I ordered the 3/8" clevis I needed, I got the threaded end as 5/16 and the hole at 3/8". So, I drilled and tapped the threaded portion to 3/8" ....
    rps20171222_181032-2.jpg
    The length is now good but I will need to move the arm that's off the clutch pedal back a bit and trim off the excess threaded rod. I will until the actual motor and trans combo with the clutch items installed are installed ....
    Tomorrow is supposed to be a gorgeous day with 70 degree temps - should be a great garage day!
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2017
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  16. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
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    Got some great time in the garage today - gorgeous weather out so the garage door stayed wide open all day. First, for those who don't know, I never throw anything away. I will give or sell stuff and then, having saved all the stuff I don't need, end up having to spend twice as much to replace what was given or sold. Sound familiar? Anyway, I put the heater ductwork in using some plastic pipe fittings and left over pipe from a central vac system I installed a long time ago ....
    rps20171223_191303-2.jpg
    Just trying to duct heat towards the driver and passenger. My roadster just shoots it to the floor ....
    rps20171223_191629-2.jpg
    As you can see I also started mocking up the the fuse panel. Using a piece of luan first, I used the three stock gauge tunnel bolt locations to attach it to the firewall and mounted the panel as high as I could. I may modify this location higher so good thing I started off with the luan! I then separated the rear lighting, front lighting, and engine wires and ran them through the firewall where the mechanical temp sensor went through . I will just move that over. I then installed the 40 Ford wire cover and had the engine wires go out the one bottom exit, front lights/horn/yellow accessory light wiring through the side exit ...
    rps20171223_191605-2.jpg
    It covers the hole where the wires pass through and looks good doing it imho (thanks jacksandeuces!). The rear wiring will exit the firewall right around where the speedo cable exits and will run along the frame to out back. Any wiring outside the interior, including the rear lighting, will also be covered in the old style cloth wiring covers just to keep the look of the time period ....
    rps20171223_191653-2.jpg
    The junction blocks are for all the connections to the dash and cowl light areas (anything involving interior lighting) in the event I should ever need to remove the body. The cowl lights are my park and signal lights and their wires have been separated out as well.
    I am using a EZWiring kit - it's a new 21 circuit unit I got for cheap at a swap meet several years ago so there are a lot of wires I will not be needing.
    Crossed a few more things off my to do list ....
     
  17. kahu808
    Joined: Nov 12, 2017
    Posts: 1

    kahu808

    Tom, you gonna run A/C as well? my deuce needs A/C rewiring and I am dreading it but I can also fix the cowl. Your posts are inspiring me to get it done
     
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  18. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
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    Glad to inspire you! I will not be running A/C as the theme is a late 50s early 60s hot rod. Actually I do not think I have enough room up front to run it even if I wanted to. I have the cowl vent, the front windshield can pop out and my rear window rolls down ti at least have sir blow through and I am used to no A/C in my avatar. The wiring kits really make things fairly simple to install A/C and there's an inexpensive crimper kit for the AC lines. I have done several cars and they all worked just fine.
     
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  19. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
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    Been doing little things on the project - bought some parts I needed and drilled the hole for the water temp sensor and the hole for the rear wiring. My honey dos took over for a bit which slowed me down along with the holidays. It was a great holiday season though as I hope yours was.

    I roughly ran the wiring to the back portion of the frame, with brake line wiring next so things are coordinated properly ....

    rps20180108_195549-2.jpg
    I also got my 40 Ford brake pedal seal pads and I tried them over the after market pedal setup. I know they go underneath but sometimes aftermarket pedals are just too big enough to rip them when you try to install them ...
    rps20180108_195617-2.jpg
    I keep chipping away ....
     
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  20. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
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    Finally got a chance to see and hear my motor run today. I did take some videos but again, my phone has thwarted me from posting them. I am looking for an app the would reduce the actual size of the videovf Ames, not just the length of the video. If anyone knows one please PM me.

    Since I will be picking up my motor from the machine shop this coming Thursday, I pulled the mock-up motor today and will be returning it to my friend JoeD tomorrow. I am just about out of room in my garage so I will install my motor and trans in the chassis just for lack if any other place to put it! But, many final measurements can be made with the combo installed and that's a good thing ....

    I have been hampered since Tuesday from carpal tunnel surgery on my right wrist. The left one will be on the 23rd but I will continue to do what I can and keep chipping away ....
     
  21. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 8,709

    DDDenny
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    from oregon

    Looking good Tom
    Cripes, is there anybody that hasn't had Carpal Tunnel surgery!
    Your wife will thank you for not having both hands done at the same time.
     
  22. TomT
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    Thank you and there was no way I was doing both at once! Hell no! I am moving at a snail's pace on this project as it is. Gotta keep moving forward no matter how slow that is .... Lol!
     
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  23. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
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    Got some garage time in today - mounted the master cylinder and the proportioning valve. It's a Wildwood unit so it has a brake light switch built in. I've ordered my residual check valves but before I start bending lines, I played with where my exhaust would run underneath so I do not heat things up that shouldn't be ...
    rps20180113_190736-2.jpg
    ... since I am running my exhaust under the frame. I had been considering either a cherry bomb muffler or some sort of baffle. I have researched baffles and I did use them on the roadster but they really didn't do much. Being about 11" long, I don't think they were long enough. As for cherry bombs, when I dropped off the mock up motor to my buddies place, he is running a 401 Nailhead in a Mod A. He used cherry bomb mufflers and said that although it did quiet things down, it is still pretty to very loud when the windows are down. Jacksandeuces has told me he makes his own baffles so I may go this route as his roadster sounds just about right.

    I also moved the firewall so the pedal stops are under the right position. On my old 40 I had them with the beveled side to the floorboard. That works well in a stuck car with the proper floorboard cutouts but my flat bottomed floorboard may work better with the flat side up.
    rps20180113_190705-2.jpg
    I will swap them around tomorrow ....
     
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  24. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
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    Been collecting sone parts for the brake lines and the motor is home. Nothing really exciting at the moment ....
     
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  25. Tom, I just read the entire thread on your build. I must say you are going to have one heck of a nice cat when finished. I have watched you build this car comming to your garage every now and then. Your thread allows me to see in between those visits and there is so much I missed. I have built a lot of cars but this is one I would be very proud to own. Its those little things like tail lights and dash pod that put this amazing car over the top. The bad ass nailhead didn't hurt none ether..
    Great job Tom...
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2018
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  26. TomT
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    Thanks, John - it's been a heck if a ride so far and without good friends like you to bail me out from time to time, I'd be lost!
     
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  27. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
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    Finally got my parts to work on the brake lines. First, the benders I had both did not make tight enough bends. Talked with my buddy Johnny on LI and he told me about a Lisle tubing Bender that some auto parts store may carry. Instead of running around, I checked eSlay, I found one and had it in two days. ...
    rps20180122_192349-2.jpg
    Only about 5" long, this little bender makes nice, tight bends and in no time I was getting things done fairly quickly ...
    rps20180122_192618-2.jpg
    Since my exhaust will run right underneath this area I got my lines up and out of the way as much as possible ....
    rps20180122_192645-2.jpg
    This mc is not the one I am going to use as it does not have outlets on the driver side. I will tweak the lines during final assembly when the mc I am using has been bench blend and installed then. I also had to make up one of the short lines off one of the check valves - dam thing was metric - grrrrrrr. Got the rear line in from the proportioning valve ...
    rps20180122_193441-2.jpg
    And I have the line running up the driver side framerail to the front when I ran out of time. But, it was a good afternoon ...
    I mentioned that my motor was home in my last short update ....
    rps20180122_193838-2.jpg
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    Just needs the block, the alt bracket, and a few small brackets for the wires and coil holder cleaned and painted and it's just about time to hook my tranny and drop it in the frame. I still haven't figured out how to shrink a video so I can post it here of it running.
    Tomorrow is carpal tunnel surgery on my left hand so no heavy work for a bit. I will stay busy doing small things, gotta clean up the shop, and just try to keep moving forward ....
     
  28. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
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    After some honey dos, personal business, and two separate trips to the auto parts store for fittings, I made some progress today. I continued working on the brake lines up front ....
    rps20180125_173720-2.jpg
    My thought here is to loop the line to the wheel cylinder to the "T" fitting ....
    rps20180125_173807-2.jpg
    I am using the stock F100 brake line brackets making sure the location does not interfere with anything ....
    rps20180125_173834-2.jpg
    A bit tough doing some of this one handed so I took my time. Once I am back to two hands I will finish things up ...
    I also started putting the 5/16 gas line in place and the fuel filter but no pics of that as yet .... I keeo chipping away
     
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  29. TomT
    Joined: Dec 11, 2003
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    My day in the garage started off strong but slowly went downhill after that. But first, the start ....

    Been working on an air cleaner I had thought of and started a while back. I started with an old Ford oil bath air cleaner. I cut along the bottom edge and all the oil bath guts were removed. I replaced the cover with a stock 40 Ford "Deluxe" hubcap which fit damn near perfect. The overall diameter of the old oil bath air cleaner is about 11.5". I had an old chrome air cleaner that is 10" in diameter. Placing the base and it's air cleaner under the oil bath unit that has around a 9" diameter at it's top makes for a perfect marriage.
    rps20180127_173954-2.jpg
    But, that leaves only a 3/4" opening between the air cleaner and the outside of the AC. Talking with a few friends of mine, that is not enough of an opening and would restricting air flow. So, using this diagram,
    rps20180127_174058-2.jpg
    ... I cut 8 2.25" holes in the oil bath cleaner allowing more air to enter and not just engine heat air.
    rps20180127_174017-2.jpg
    I just rec'd some nice tight ss wire mesh I will place inside so the filter isn't wide open to the outside world. All will be painted black and a K&N filter used in place of the paperwork filter. I will post a pic when done but here's a pic of the mesh .....
    rps20180127_183502-2.jpg

    I also finished the one brake line that loops under off the"T' on the driver's side ...
    rps20180127_174126-2.jpg
    Now things went south - bent up two separate lines to cross over to the passenger side. So much time on the first, disaster - second one works but after even more time it's so ugly I can't even post a picture. So, a third one needs to be done but my hands were hurting so bad it was time to call it quits. Tomorrow is another day ....
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2018
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  30. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
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    1-SHOT
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    I don't see any Anti Chatter Rods with your clutch release set up. The pressure of pushing the clutch in will push the motor foreword and when you release the clutch it will chatter. All the old flat heads had them to stop this.
     
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