Technical June Banger tune-up and drive 'em

Have a question for you guys running Ford 16" wires.

Where do you get tubes with enough valve offset (from centerline) for the Ford rim valve hole. Started out with 16" tubes from Macs. Valves sheared off on initial instillation. When I call Macs about this they said that I was using the wrong rims, wouldn't take back the 3 still in plastic sealed bags, nor would they do anything about the ones that failed. Don't know why Ford 16" wires are "the wrong rims", unless they think they are selling Studebaker parts. End of me wasting my money at Mac's. Went to Coker site, and bought 5 tubes (for radial tires--which is what I was mounting) with "offset valve location''. Well, they are offset, but no where near enough. Got all 5 tires mounted, but on initial 5 mile run, valve ripped off, dumped all the air. Was in heavy traffic, and before I could get to a spot where I could pull off the road, brand new tire was trash. Ran the same (type) rims on my every day driver '31 pickup in the late 50's and early 60's, with never a thought about tubes--and if we couldn't find patchable old ones we ordered new from Sears. Top quality, I'm sure.

If I can't get the correct tubes, my only other option is to run the tires tubeless, but not sure if the bead seats are good enough to seal. Rims have been powder coated, which might smooth out small pits, but 80 year old rims are bound to be a long way from perfect in the bead area.

Tubes with enough valve offset have to be available---but where?

Herb Kephart

 

Ive gotten all my tubes from Universal Tire. Never asked for offset tubes and never had a problem with a single one. Currently running 16" wires on my A.

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I'm running Coker tubes in my '35 wires.


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I made good progress on my motor, still a lot to do. I have the same oil pan as crazydaddyo ( that was an amazing find).
I have not installed the head yet, it will be a couple weeks before I can work on it again. I will have a lot of questions and would love some advice.



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The only time I have had with stems on tubes was caused by too low pressure and the tire slipped tearing stem

 

The tubes in my 16's came from tractor supply.

 

Tradition! what are we talking here traditional hotrodding is about taking a standard motor and updating it whith the latest technology so it goes better. A traditional hotrod is a car built to a certain period or date I think we lose sight of this.

 

how much would you people say that the stock model a transmision can handle in horsepower? and is there a swap that can be done and still keep the tourqetube in stock length? so i can put in a stock transmision quite simple?

 

Kjell, you can buy a kit that lets you install a 39 trans and still keep your torque tube. Or you can use a 32 -34 Model B trans with later gears. Lot more work that way.

 

Mitchel Transmissions also makes an A trans with synchros- a drop in. A little $!

 

both those sounds quite fine to me thx

those are cool, but yeah.. $$$.. im stil just 18 so i dont have all that much cash..

 

I say the hold up pretty damn good. I put plenty if miles on my B engine that was slightly hopped up. Also beat on it pretty good with the OHV engine banging gears. No time for double clothing here! I've never had a problem with it.

-Mike

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Bob Kehoe runs an A trans in his sprint car. Back when my daily driver was an A I had no problems with the A trans mainly because I didn't know any better. I think there were more problems with the rear ends than the trans. One guy, the late Mike McGarrity, owner of Sky Ranch said he would start in low pull the throttle down and put his foot against the shifter and just tap the clutch when the engine reached max. He also told me he never lost a trans but crunched a few rear ends. I found better shifts with 4.11's in the reared. When I got near to my driveway I had to make a short left then a right into my drive way. When I got to the short left I would downshift into low and dump the clutch and compression would cause the rear end to slide on the sandy spot on pavement crank the wheel to the left the ass end would slide around and then a sharp right into the driveway. Of course I practiced this quite a bit.

I think most rear ends went out or were crunched because of lack of maintenance . Axle keys would shear because of loose axle nuts. When asked about relative strength of A rear ends Joe Mac used to say "Hell , they ran them in sprint cars didn't they"

 

One of the worse things you can do is not having your hubs fitting the axel I grind them in with grinding paste to make sure the fit right and remember safty hubs or brake drum retainers in case of a broken stub.

 

In line for tech at the Antique Nats

 

More from the pits

 

Quicker, but not fast enough. Gear change for the next pass.

 

Hot track lots of wheel spin at the start.

 

I made a strap to hold everything in line. it will also be bolted to the spare block Roy creel gave me. Soon after the July Bonneville tune up meet it's off to the welder.

 

This a really fine looking car.

 

Way cool. thanks for posting

 

Love the sound--was that the 80 run?

Herb

 

Yes, that was the first 80 mph run.

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That is an awesome video.

Streetrods are driven by Chevy, Hotrods are powered by FORD!

 

Bill jr drove car. It wasn't really sorted out. We were put in 10 unlimited, heads up, cause we can't run against similar cars. First run agains't Mancillos turbo dragster we ran 67 he ran 104 or something like that. Really nice looking and sounding machine, must be third generation. We don't need too much to be street legal and so we will run against street roadsters next year. Car is registered as 27 roadster and all we need is a wiper and a horn

 

Bill,
Post a picture of your car. I was looking for your modified, but I didn't see it.

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Did anyone see this car run?
If so, what did it run?

 

Dan, I heard it broke during the day, not sure if it made a full pass.
He was at a test and tune last week or so and ran 130-ish

John