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June Banger Meet - All new in '09

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Wildfire, Jun 1, 2009.

  1. Got to the Antique Nationals and unloaded the car. and my buddy, Narod, drove to the tech inspection area. While he was waiting the engine died and wouldn't start. At one point it backfired and broke the Bendix gear so Phil from M & L Electric pulled the starter while Tom Conley searched for a magnet which we used to remove the pieces. Then they pushed and towed the car but all it did was fire once or twice. Monday morning I checked the ignition and no spark and very low voltage reading with no fluctuation of meter while cranking the engine. According to FS trouble shooting guide that meant the cell was faulty. Replacement cost is $55 I think I will sell this FS distributor and convert a "B" distributor. The main drawback with the "B" is the small diameter of the upper shaft, when it wears the cam can "wobble" and the gap varies. The FS cell is very forgiving as the air gap can be from .010 to .040 or something like that and still fire.
     
  2. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Bill

    Didn't we discuss using a Triumph Dist. ?

    I think you should get a mag

    This little Lucas one is pretty good..... sorry about the outta-focus

    Small very hot and good enough to do 24 hours of Le Mans
     

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  3. Will Kimble
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 400

    Will Kimble
    Member

    Here's my contribution to the rear brake pictures, hopefully this will help somebody. I know I looked high and low for pictures or verification that you can do it this way and couldn't find anything.

    If you go to modern shocks, you can cut off the original shock mounts and get to the wheel cylinders in their original configuration - don't need to flip them, rotate them, or drill any new holes. Model A rearend, '47 Ford brakes, brake lines from Cling's.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Artiki
    Joined: Feb 17, 2004
    Posts: 2,000

    Artiki
    Member
    from Brum...

    I've got a Lucas mag ready to drop into a banger somewhere. Must dig that out and take a pic...
     
  5. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 9,912

    RichFox
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I am not checked out on Fords but I sure liked my Bosch (2000 Pinto) distributor in my Plymouth
     
  6. brokenspoke
    Joined: Jul 26, 2005
    Posts: 2,877

    brokenspoke
    Member

    Broken drum???
     
  7. Will Kimble
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 400

    Will Kimble
    Member

    Thanks Brokenspoke, I'll get right on it... :rolleyes:

    Will Kimble
     
  8. kenagain
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 820

    kenagain
    Member
    from so cal

     
  9. kenagain
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 820

    kenagain
    Member
    from so cal

    Ok some time back I said I was gonna make a valve cover for the early olds engine, mine is a 23 4 banger. I took the tin valve cover with all the holes and added wood n bondo to it to make a pattern. made the height a liitle taller n added material on ends n sides for shrink. Put on some fins give er a coat of primer n went thru the process of casting a loose part.
    Pic's show the process from start to finish, except the one of stock cover did not come out. It is not drilled or polished, has a few pinholes from loose sand, but is a sand cast part similiar to the originals from the day.
    anybody want one , pm me as to shipping costs. I want $175 plus the ride if interested. Need a week to do them also. Same place does Mummerts Y block stuff. See attached pics for whole process
     

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    Last edited: Aug 3, 2010
  10. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,204

    RussTee
    Member


    great stuff i have done the same myself it is pretty basic remember this was how the old timers did it they were backyarders some of who went on to better things it always surprises me that more ain,t doing it good effort please do more
     
  11. Banger Tech Week? Looks good, have always been interested in casting and the whole process.-Weeks

     
  12. Thanks for the contribution. Was wondering about the drum also. I had to find a replacement for one of my front drums due to the same size piece missing. Obviously you have been driving on it, can you feel any vibrations or wheel hop? Just wondering if my drum might still be usable before I take the hub off and scrap the drum.-Weeks

     
  13. matt--8
    Joined: Apr 3, 2009
    Posts: 122

    matt--8
    Member

    some sweet talk and cars here. The best meet for me this month!:D
     
  14. 60 Belair
    Joined: Feb 19, 2006
    Posts: 747

    60 Belair
    Member

    Hello guys this is my first banger I have been lurkin thru the banger meets the last few months trying to learn as much as I can, I finally opened up a spot in the shop so I got it out there last week . I pulled the front axle today for the drop axle I am cleaning parts (and removing white paint someone had a sale on white paint)
    I am going to keep it full fendered and not planning on splitting the wish bones Which brings me to my first of what will be probably a few dumb questions . are the wish bones bent or is this normal for an A Thanks for all the great info as always Andy
     

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  15. matt--8
    Joined: Apr 3, 2009
    Posts: 122

    matt--8
    Member

    I think the wishbone should be straight, i maybe wrong but it might have talken alot of weight and bounce on the front end to cause that. Am fair young and new to the gameish but someone will be able to tell u.
     
  16. Yep they are bent, sorry. Have seen a few that were puposely bent like that but they were split and for dropped axles. You should be able to find a used good wishbone for less then a 100$. I have bought some for 15-25$ needing a new ball welded on.-Weeks

     
  17. Wow, that wishbone is bent big time. Should be strait.
     
  18. kenagain
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 820

    kenagain
    Member
    from so cal

    looks like someone picked it up with a forklift does it every time
    Ken
     
  19. BangerMatt
    Joined: Mar 3, 2008
    Posts: 465

    BangerMatt
    Member

    I have a quick question regarding this type of manifold setup. I am currently trying to set up an intake manifold similar to this one, which is set up to run with the stock exhaust manifold (only has "half a hole") for the bolt/nut to mount it. I want to mount it with headers like the one pictured. It appears that this one has little aluminum angle brackets to use as washers, to put pressure on the other side of the stud. Does anyone else have any other suggestions on what to do with this?
     
  20. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,163

    Crazydaddyo
    Member


    You could tack weld a piece heavy wall tube or pipe cut in half that is the same length as the intake flange.


    .
     
  21. This weeks progress hampered with a power outage at home tonight.
    The frame work is about 95% complete for the body and the chassis was started today with a flat front X member ahead of the radiator
     

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  22. Here is another way I had the ears built up and remachined them [​IMG]
     
  23. andyg
    Joined: Aug 10, 2007
    Posts: 560

    andyg
    Member

    this sight just gets me all worked up!!!
     
  24. Gaters
    Joined: Dec 29, 2007
    Posts: 564

    Gaters
    Member

    Drats! I have a good picture in my archives somewhere of just what you need. I had a similar question at one time and found a photo that shows a perfect set up for your needs. I'll see if I can find it and post it. I did find it on one of the past months Banger Threads.

    Got em! Check em out.

    Gaters -

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2009
  25. Todays progress
    Rear kick up and the start of the centre X member
    More progress shots later
     

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  26. T.W.Dustin
    Joined: Nov 18, 2008
    Posts: 883

    T.W.Dustin
    Member

    Hey guys, got room for another? I picked up this '29 tonight (I actually will get it on Thurs morning). I swapped my 2000 Jeep Wrangler for it which was kind of a toy. He wanted the Jeep for his vacation home.

    It's pretty much original right now (except for the seat belts), but I will make changes over time. I kind of just want to drive it for a while and make changes slowly. I'll probably hang out here and listen and learn - I have another '29 i am planning on putting a '52 hemi into, so this one will likely keep the banger :cool:

    Here are some pics I took when I went to look at it tonight:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  27. hotrodtom
    Joined: Apr 14, 2005
    Posts: 231

    hotrodtom
    Member

    Sorry for the late reply -- been balin' hay. The starter drive bolted right in. On second thought, a clarification: I've got a V8 clutch on a lightened A flywheel., not a V8 flywheel. Sorry if I misspoke and misled you.
    Fearless
     
  28. OK guys,
    I finally snuck that Winfield carb on the roadster that I've had stashed away. Got it hooked up and it runs, but I need a little help. It idles pretty rough, but revs OK. When driving though and reving the engine under load, it stalls and sputters. It will also only idle kinnda high- like maybe 8-900 RPM. Of it goes lower than that, it shakes and runs pretty crummy.
    I got a sheet telling how to adjust the carb with a rebuild kit I got, but it's all kind of wishy-washy to me. I messed with it and did what the instructions told me without a lot of gain. I have what looks to be 6 adjusting screws on the carb....any pointers from anyone whos dealt with these carbs?

    The good thing though, it sure looks bitchin :D

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2009
  29. Tonight I completed the rear kick up in the new chassis I am making for my banger powered T roadster.
    The 2 inch kick up has rivets welded from behind to give the illusion that the cross member is rivetted in.
    Another couple of days and I can get this ready to mount the body and then I am waiting for my running gear from a restored stock Model A with 21 inch wheels to arrive
     

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  30. The Wrong-Un
    Joined: Oct 8, 2004
    Posts: 407

    The Wrong-Un
    Member

    Chris,

    It sounds a little like over fueling to me. Have you checked the level of the float bowl? With the car running, pull the inspection plug and you should just see a tiny seep of fuel from it.
     

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