Got to the Antique Nationals and unloaded the car. and my buddy, Narod, drove to the tech inspection area. While he was waiting the engine died and wouldn't start. At one point it backfired and broke the Bendix gear so Phil from M & L Electric pulled the starter while Tom Conley searched for a magnet which we used to remove the pieces. Then they pushed and towed the car but all it did was fire once or twice. Monday morning I checked the ignition and no spark and very low voltage reading with no fluctuation of meter while cranking the engine. According to FS trouble shooting guide that meant the cell was faulty. Replacement cost is $55 I think I will sell this FS distributor and convert a "B" distributor. The main drawback with the "B" is the small diameter of the upper shaft, when it wears the cam can "wobble" and the gap varies. The FS cell is very forgiving as the air gap can be from .010 to .040 or something like that and still fire.
Bill Didn't we discuss using a Triumph Dist. ? I think you should get a mag This little Lucas one is pretty good..... sorry about the outta-focus Small very hot and good enough to do 24 hours of Le Mans
Here's my contribution to the rear brake pictures, hopefully this will help somebody. I know I looked high and low for pictures or verification that you can do it this way and couldn't find anything. If you go to modern shocks, you can cut off the original shock mounts and get to the wheel cylinders in their original configuration - don't need to flip them, rotate them, or drill any new holes. Model A rearend, '47 Ford brakes, brake lines from Cling's.
Ok some time back I said I was gonna make a valve cover for the early olds engine, mine is a 23 4 banger. I took the tin valve cover with all the holes and added wood n bondo to it to make a pattern. made the height a liitle taller n added material on ends n sides for shrink. Put on some fins give er a coat of primer n went thru the process of casting a loose part. Pic's show the process from start to finish, except the one of stock cover did not come out. It is not drilled or polished, has a few pinholes from loose sand, but is a sand cast part similiar to the originals from the day. anybody want one , pm me as to shipping costs. I want $175 plus the ride if interested. Need a week to do them also. Same place does Mummerts Y block stuff. See attached pics for whole process
great stuff i have done the same myself it is pretty basic remember this was how the old timers did it they were backyarders some of who went on to better things it always surprises me that more ain,t doing it good effort please do more
Thanks for the contribution. Was wondering about the drum also. I had to find a replacement for one of my front drums due to the same size piece missing. Obviously you have been driving on it, can you feel any vibrations or wheel hop? Just wondering if my drum might still be usable before I take the hub off and scrap the drum.-Weeks
Hello guys this is my first banger I have been lurkin thru the banger meets the last few months trying to learn as much as I can, I finally opened up a spot in the shop so I got it out there last week . I pulled the front axle today for the drop axle I am cleaning parts (and removing white paint someone had a sale on white paint) I am going to keep it full fendered and not planning on splitting the wish bones Which brings me to my first of what will be probably a few dumb questions . are the wish bones bent or is this normal for an A Thanks for all the great info as always Andy
I think the wishbone should be straight, i maybe wrong but it might have talken alot of weight and bounce on the front end to cause that. Am fair young and new to the gameish but someone will be able to tell u.
Yep they are bent, sorry. Have seen a few that were puposely bent like that but they were split and for dropped axles. You should be able to find a used good wishbone for less then a 100$. I have bought some for 15-25$ needing a new ball welded on.-Weeks
I have a quick question regarding this type of manifold setup. I am currently trying to set up an intake manifold similar to this one, which is set up to run with the stock exhaust manifold (only has "half a hole") for the bolt/nut to mount it. I want to mount it with headers like the one pictured. It appears that this one has little aluminum angle brackets to use as washers, to put pressure on the other side of the stud. Does anyone else have any other suggestions on what to do with this?
You could tack weld a piece heavy wall tube or pipe cut in half that is the same length as the intake flange. .
This weeks progress hampered with a power outage at home tonight. The frame work is about 95% complete for the body and the chassis was started today with a flat front X member ahead of the radiator
Drats! I have a good picture in my archives somewhere of just what you need. I had a similar question at one time and found a photo that shows a perfect set up for your needs. I'll see if I can find it and post it. I did find it on one of the past months Banger Threads. Got em! Check em out. Gaters -
Hey guys, got room for another? I picked up this '29 tonight (I actually will get it on Thurs morning). I swapped my 2000 Jeep Wrangler for it which was kind of a toy. He wanted the Jeep for his vacation home. It's pretty much original right now (except for the seat belts), but I will make changes over time. I kind of just want to drive it for a while and make changes slowly. I'll probably hang out here and listen and learn - I have another '29 i am planning on putting a '52 hemi into, so this one will likely keep the banger Here are some pics I took when I went to look at it tonight:
Sorry for the late reply -- been balin' hay. The starter drive bolted right in. On second thought, a clarification: I've got a V8 clutch on a lightened A flywheel., not a V8 flywheel. Sorry if I misspoke and misled you. Fearless
OK guys, I finally snuck that Winfield carb on the roadster that I've had stashed away. Got it hooked up and it runs, but I need a little help. It idles pretty rough, but revs OK. When driving though and reving the engine under load, it stalls and sputters. It will also only idle kinnda high- like maybe 8-900 RPM. Of it goes lower than that, it shakes and runs pretty crummy. I got a sheet telling how to adjust the carb with a rebuild kit I got, but it's all kind of wishy-washy to me. I messed with it and did what the instructions told me without a lot of gain. I have what looks to be 6 adjusting screws on the carb....any pointers from anyone whos dealt with these carbs? The good thing though, it sure looks bitchin
Tonight I completed the rear kick up in the new chassis I am making for my banger powered T roadster. The 2 inch kick up has rivets welded from behind to give the illusion that the cross member is rivetted in. Another couple of days and I can get this ready to mount the body and then I am waiting for my running gear from a restored stock Model A with 21 inch wheels to arrive
Chris, It sounds a little like over fueling to me. Have you checked the level of the float bowl? With the car running, pull the inspection plug and you should just see a tiny seep of fuel from it.
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