The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by T-Head, Jun 1, 2010.
A 1930-30 Roadster with a 1932 radiator shell that has been filled and a set of later wheels.
Here is the banger link list .
For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:
Flat Ernie maintains the monthly link list. Every month is listed:
Banger basics. another info link list:
Post #105 of link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
Elrod's stuck head tech:
Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:
Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:
Chevy Banger Stuff
Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"
Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber
Maybe these links should be posted early in each months meeting.
If anyone knows of more, please post them.
" I've tried nothing ...and I'm all out of ideas."
T-5 5 speed in a Torque Tube:
Before all the tech talk begins I just want to show off a little.
Picked this up at a farm sale, Reportedly was in an F-20 Farmall that the
seller bought for the tires. Engine was not needed and I got the winning bid.
Turns over nicely, full of oil, and thats about it.
Some of the "newbies" might want to look at these......... From Just Plain Bill.
The whiner from the recliner
A solution to the age old problem of cleaning the underneath and wheels on your pride and joy.
How about a little cheese cake on the beach with a Chevy Coupe and a Sedan .
I'm confused. Am I in the right place now?
Yes you are..... so sorry for the mix up... T-Head
Hmm...Ford engine in an old Farmall...that seems just wrong. Seems like a step backwards from the original engine....which btw are VERY heavy. Tried to lift one into the back of the truck yesterday with the lift. The thing will lift small blocks all day long but that engine was a no go. I geuss I will have to do some more bracing.
that would have been a mess when the Model A updraft sucked up all that water!
Elrod....you brought up a very good point and thought but the T coupe probably has the stock updraft like an A. I don't know what the other car is but I don't think it is an A, but most every car until about 32 had updrafts.
Anybody ever had problems with water in an updraft??
I have driven my T across streams about that deep and never had any trouble, even without the heat riser tube.
Anyway..... We have been taught that H2O injection is good in small doses.
A trip in the "Wayback" machine found this interesting head.
Like Singh's slots, It could direct a swirling charge from the squish area, into the combustion chamber and then draw burning mixture back into the "dead" zone above the decending piston.
May have "worked like a Champ" and not found greater acceptance through insufficient marketing.
Perhaps potential customers wanted to keep their existing sparkplugs and not buy "expensive, weird, new fangled, 'your-a-peein', Metric ones ??
Or, It might not have worked quite as well as claimed.
Not a Crows Foot..more like an Eagles Talon (now there's 'marketing' for you)
Hello all, I have a few questions about a BB motor and trans that I bought last week, first off it has F3 on the head, and second is the carb, it doesnt have any markings on it, and third is the 4 speed tranny, is it good for anything, I think its a pretty good motor it turns freely and through the breather hole appears to be a one peice counterweighted crank, and check out the new gaskets it came with, thanks in advance for any help.
Anyone ever hear of early '30 pickups with '29 cabs?? Production numbers or know how long they did it. I searched but couldent find anything... ...http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=478243
my challenges....A motor that is tight in turning over - seller said it had run on a "stand" ?....and my "compressor" motor that I will try and turn back to a running motor to put back in a car/truck....
Just by the look of the sealant that ran down the walls of the cylinder, That thing didn't run after the head was put on.
Could be tight because the permatex has locked up the pistons.
If the head was put on that sloppy, I would say that the bearing clearances on the mains, rods or both are set tight.
try loosening the rod caps one at a time until it loosens up. If it is still tight after the rod are loose, then do the mains one at a time. If that doesn't do it, take the pistons out. If it is still tight, then take out the cam. If that doesn't free it up, get someone stronger to check it out
I was "thumbing" through some pictures tonight and found this:
Chew on this for a little while.
That's a nice truck, post the question over on the Ford Barn. LOTS of Model a Ford factory orioginal people over there with the answers you are looking for.
'Revered' Australian engineer, Phil Irving, in his wonderful book "Tuning for Speed" suggests a couple of options for the improvement of Side-valve engines.
The first is for low compression type engines with 'moderate' valve lifts, ample clearance for flow between the valve and the chamber roof and port pockets with a 'perpendicular' entry to the back of the valve. (sorta like a stock A)
The second option is for a "high performance" engine with maximum compression, fast and high lift cam timing, a big inlet valve and ports that are shaped to direct the flow through the front of the valve.
Something for every-one!
One recommendation he makes, no matter which intake style you use, is the importance of eliminating shrouding at the back of the exhaust valve.
Bringing the entire circumference of the exhaust valve into play at low valve lifts will maximise exhaust bleed-down and evenly distribute the temperature load on the valve and the seat. (The cooling effect of the intake flow tends to be less influential on the exhaust in a flat-head than it is in an OHV.)
This illustration shows David Vizard's simplified approximation of the clearance required to prevent shrouding around a valve .
It's to do with providing equivalent areas and it's actually not as much clearance as you would imagine.
At around 0.25D the area of the valve "curtain' ( D x pi x 0.25d ) is equivalent to the valve seat area (D/2 x D/2 x pi) and also the difference in the areas of D+0.4D & D
Of course, This is for a OHV into an open cylinder.
For a flathead inlet, clearance would need to extend around and over the valve for the full lift with an allowance for losses due to the dramatic direction changes and obstructions presented.
For an exhaust (depending on our lust for compression) we would want to provide a clearance for, say...the first half of the lift, at least.
What sort of rotor button is available to use a V8 distributor (or cap) like that?
180 degrees back to back? with a dead firing on the exhaust stroke?
Or are they firing the plug over the piston immediately after the main one to burn the fuel in the squish??
Hang on! Turbo! No squish, BIG chamber, Huge boost. I'd like to see their crankshaft!!
Crankshaft snout looks like a stocker??.... What sort of times has it done?
Juicy, isn't it !!!!!!!
Sorry, I don't have any answers. It was a busy day at the races for me, and only hopped out of my car as I was waiting in the staging lanes to snap this picture. I never had time to find it in the pits. I hope it will be at the races this week end so that I can get some of my questions answered.
I'm figuring that the Distributor is a Datsun / Nissan dual plug unit available on '82-'85 200sx and pickups. It doesn't look like they are running any ignition box that could be programed to alternate the plug fire timing, so it would both fire at the same time.
CDO.... How did your car work? What kind of time and speed are you getting?
Elmer Spatz from Los Angeles in his racing car with what appears to be a BB Rajo.
Note that he has front wheel brakes which is unusual for a dirt track racer.
Got my pickup on the road last week, just in time for the Santa Maria show. Thought id share some pics with you guys. It runs pretty good for a field find that hadnt run in 35+ years. Im going to do a tech thread on how I lowered and juiced it on the stock running gear. Its for sale now in the classifides. Hope you guys dig it...
Photo without caption......
Eddie and Al have been racing Model As since the 50s, they also have a 30 coupe with OHV ( much modified) ...and fast.....
Gale Banks , has development time in the motor and turbo with these guys, ( he started out with a Model A himself) .
I don't know current times but they have been very close if not into the 10s with the altered. I saw them run at the Antique Nats Palmdale, 1994--------------- sure opened my eyes.
The Mancillas family ( there's more of them) also have a twin engine A digger, reportedly tested............in the dry concrete bed of the LA river ???
They have a huge warehouse full of Model A stuff and other hot rod "junk" in LA.
My best 1/4 mile time was 17.96 @ 71.5 mph.
Looks like a great start Jeff. And it's a diamond block to boot. I've been hunting one of those governors for a while. Good luck with the project!
Good looking B motor you came across! The carb looks like your standard Model B carburetor, the lack of zenith markings could indicate it's a replacement. Either way it's a fine carburetor. Not sure about the F3 on the head, it could be a replacement as well?
That gasket box is great wall art though! Congrats on your find! Good luck!
Separate names with a comma.