Technical ***June 2017 Banger Meet - 4 Pistons and 4 Million Mosquitos***

Bit of scrap iron came in the mail today. The mortal remains of a very worked over Laurel Roof "Liberty 8" head for a model t. Would take some artistic mastery to repair the CC's. yes, it has been milled down the water jackets. Just hoping to pull a good pattern from it.


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Why the milling ?

 

Any one in Australia chasing a Webber, hit me up. Full kit, unused. Carb, manifold, air cleaner, fuel line, throttle linkage and instructions. A lot cheaper than the catalogue price.

 

Compression? Your guess is as good as any. Maybe someone who is more in the know could enlighten...



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Maybe somebody was thinking, decrease the clamping area. Increase the clamping force, Not unlike the Lotus 907 engine I ran in my roadster for a few years. The cylinder liners stood proud about .002-.004, The idea was to really seal the compression. If it leaked a little around the outside, you just used more silicon.I think I would try that head as is before writing it off, Might take a little skim around the outside. Solid copper gasket. To bad you moved to Texas.

 

My thoughts too- it may work well!

 

http://www.roadandtrack.com/motorsp...car-uses-v8-formed-from-two-hayabusa-engines/



2 susuki motors put together . car is fast !

 

Interesting note on the clamping force. The main problem with the head is that the combustion chamber looks like a mass of spiderweb cracks, it is so bad the valve seats kept dropping out.

Model T blocks are still "plentiful", it was mentioned that the block could be grooved for an o-ring. Figure out how to find the bore center and give it a cut.

 

I have seen many "Z" rear sections for sale . doing a search today did not come with any . do you guys have a source for a "Z" rear section for a model A ? ................. thanks .. steve

 

How much of a drop are you trying to achieve?

 

We are going to cut the frame and would like to lower a few inches what do have ? Do not want to be to low steve

 

Wouldn't it be better to Z your frame?

 

Agreed, some one the H.A.M.B. once called the simplest version a "Vern tardel" style rear drop, which I think you can search for on the here. Basically cut the rear end of the frame (bit of the frame, plus rear cross member) and weld it to the top. Effectively a 2" and change drop.


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Yeah. You cut it at 45 degrees so that you have a good overlap without lousing length. Then you make a boxing piece to weld on the inside. it looks like a Z. Hence the term Zing the frame

 

Sure wish you were in the states


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thank you . ill try to find a pic..................... steve

 

It's pretty straight forward. You weld a piece of angle iron to the top of what will be the rear part of the frame and one to the bottom of the front part. This will keep them from springing when you cut them. Then you scribe or in some way make a very vertical line in the center of where your going to cut. Then you cut it. Put the rear part on top of the front part so the lines are lined up. Measure the hell out of everything to be sure its right. Weld it. Make the Z and weld it. High school kids were doing it in the 50s. I'm sure you can do it today. Maybe they didn't care to much if one side was a little longer.

 

Just to be sure. Do not cut vertical. A 45 degree cut and an overlap is the way to do it.

 

thank you for your help . both of you ................... steve

 

Going to be doing on here in a bit, will post some pics.


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thanks again ........... steve

 

When they built Mike's car for their book...Mike Bishop and Vern Tardel did in fact cut their chassis vertically and weld in filler pieces on the 45 degree, their reasons are explained in the book , with pictures , . I don't think there is an issue with strength if it is done properly either way, but I don't like the look of the overlap. As far as "Hope and dreams and certain death" go I think you would probably have to consider how the rear X member is attached to the chassis rails just 4 " away...half a dozen rivets through small tabs and some triangular braces. The back of the frame isn't going to fall off with a banger or a flathead , especially if it has a banjo rear axle.... Blown Hemi might need a bit more thought.

 

Saw this at a local hotrod show today. The only HAMB and/or banger friendly car there.

 

Heading out in the morning for Lincoln NE and the Speedster Reunion at Speedway Motors. Always a bunch of impressive T's and A's. some of the cars from several years ago.

 

Oh my, I forgot humour never goes over that well on here.

 

Hope, puppies, bourbon and politicians. In no particular order.

 

At Speedway for the Speedster Reunion. Ran 120 mile tour and will run the dyno on Saturday. Here's Ron Kelly's rig.

 

Here's a bunch of bangers at the end of the tour today

 

ive seen this out fit up close . VERY nice rig !

 

$48.86 and I scored a miss listed pile of used brass...at least the one on the far left.




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