Technical *** June 2015 Banger Meet - Cruising Time ***

If your planning on cleaning the sludge out of the valve chamber
put pipe cleaners or similar down the main bearing oil tubes before starting to clean

 

for transmission ... I have a t-5 , open drive shaft to a stock model a rear end with 3.27 gear . it is great . 1st is low enuff to get going & 5th (od) is great for highway . kits are available & most any junk yard will have the trans . find on line the codes that tell the gear ratio's . mine is the .072 od .

 

Just remember, "If it ain't broke don't fix it"

 

Actually I think it goes "If it ain't broke, don't fix it, but if it's slow, make it faster"

 

Most likely in an A unless someone "gives" me a 32. But I want a better trans than an A.

 

. I thought it was If it ain't broke use a bigger hammer

 

Hey folks,

already made a extra thread for it (http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/Questions-'bout-a-4-banger-hop-up-setup.978001/), but I thought you guys can help me out a lot. I wanna get my stuff together for my 4 Banger Model B hop up. I know this topic can kick of a hell of a discussion... But this is my first Banger hop up. This are the parts wich I think of can get me to a good cruising speed. I think it could be a good setup, but you are the pros. It doesn’t have to be a hardcore hopped up engine, but I wanna get the car to like 70 to 75 mph to pass semis without a problem and have a cruising speed of 65 to 70 mph.

I listed the parts below and also have some questions cause I found different options for some parts wich I’m not totally sure what to get.

Parts:

* Head: Lion Speed Head III (cast iron), Lion Speed Head IV (aluminum) both 6.5:1, Winfield Aluminum 6.8:1 (aluminum)
* Exhaust Manifold: Y headers (secrets of speed) or Reds headers 4 in 1or2
* Intake: Scalded Dog (1 carb)
* Carb: 97 Stromberg
* Pulley: Reduction Pulley (secrets of speed) 3.5 diameter
* Crankshaft: already have a counterweight B crank in the engine
* Camshaft: regrind B cam wich cam would fit the heads best? winfield grind for the winfield head and wich grind would fit a Lion Head best?
* Ignition/Distributor: FSI Zipper elec. Ignition, centrifugal distributor for 6Volt
* Valves: stainless steel valves from H&H with adjustable lifters
* Bearings: New insert main bearings that can take the higher compression. What original bearings are in the B Banger? Can i change them to new better insert bearings?
* Lightend Flywheel


Questions:

* Head: Which should i go for? After what I’ve read I like the Lion best. Would the cast iron or aluminum be better. Think the aluminum would be better cause of better heat conduction. Also the Lion could be better cause of the other position oft he spark plugs.
* Exhaust: Y headers say, the get some more power than others, but they don’t fit the scladed dog for one stromberg so maybe go fort he 4 in 1or2 from reds headers?
* Intake: Are there other intakes for the Y headers that fit for one stromberg 97
* Reduction Pulley: Think it would be better to slow down the water at high speeds, it that right?
* Camshaft: I think a winfield grind would fit the winfield head. Which grind can I go for the Lion?
* IgnitionDistrib.: Is FSI Zipper in the old look a good one?
* Valves: Are the adjustable ones from H&H good to go?
* Bearings: Whigh good new main bearings can I get, to take the higher compression?
* Flywheel: How much weight can i get off the wheel?


I know it’s a lot of questions, but I’m sure some of you guys can help me out a little, so that I can build a nice little hopped up banger over the winter and know what to order.

Wanna get the head quick, cause Lions are available at the moment.

Thanks in advance guys
Lukas

 

If I were you , living in Bavaria, I would be looking for a running G28T engine .
http://www.dannerrs.com/39432923

See if you can find one for me while you are at it!

 

Even with all the changes you list above, you won't meet your goal for any extended amount of time without a rear end gear change or the addition of an overdrive.

.
.

 

Yes, I thought I have to do that. What gear ratio would be good to go? What's he original gear ratio in it?

 

This link is posted at the start of the banger thread every month, a good tool to calculate speed and gear ratios

Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:

http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculator.php

 

Forgive my stupidity...but are you talking like an 80's mustang transmission?

 

With great enthusiasm I want to tell I found an old model A ford engine with a lot of history in racing in my city because belonged to a man, who in the seventies ... competed in the category "Limited 31 " along country roads ...
Model A block with a system of forced lubrication , from a hole under the bolt that holding the oil pump on the block, Oil pump have some work for this, model "B" 32-34 head (marked letter C) and waterpump , drilled A crankshaft , reground B camshaft , has also a hole to place a fuel pump, lightened flywheel, Block number is (A 21*****) not a B block....
Engine is dated June 1929, have a B cam, unknow cam specs... Full drilled crank, mains and rods....
Modified oil pump, some material was adding on the top making the oil not fluid totally to the valve case... Questions about this? How the valves, cam bushings and front gear were lubed if is the oil is totally redirect to the mains? Or some oil is pushed to the top to?
In the valve case you can see the gallery oil system maked from tubes epoxied to the ariginal oil holes and a little tube epoxied to the original model A oil tube, this tube was plain on the top possible for sprayed oil to front gears?
Along with these found a Holley 94 ( 8ba ) carb. without intake manifold.
I was able to talk to a man who met his own and told me that the engine ran at 160 km per hour = 99,4193908 miles per hour.
These are just some things that I noticed when examining the block ...
Please guys I ask you to help me and to share any opinion or thinking about the mechanics of it.

 

Oh, I forgot !! both intake inlet holes have welds.

 

Stock rears are 3.78 : 1
I run a 5 speed overdrive trans that is .66 over, and a quick change with 3.48 : 1 final gear ratio and 30" tall tires. I run 75-80 mph all day on the hiway.

.

 

(Still) Working on making the Volvo M40 converted to torque tube, greatly inspired by Marcus' thread http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/volvo-m40-transmission-conversion-in-model-a.951708/, but if you're running open drive shaft, that's the route, I'd go.

 

Sadly, they're getting really hard to find/pay for...

I'd look at Volvo overdrives (0,82 or 0,78, produced by Laycock, out of 544, 120, 140, 160, 240, 740 and the 940 series), they can be made to fit the torque tube. http://www.thelmasgarage.com/volvo.htm, http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40054
Some US made them, but last I heard, they were out of stock, and had ½ years waiting list... But then googles showed me this: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74119

 

No that one is "If it don't go get a bigger hammer"

 

or "If you can't fix it with a hammer it must be an electrical problem"

 

Hot Rod Dirt Drags are this weekend in Monte Vista Colorado. A lot of bangers will run the 1/8 mile track.
This is going to be great!

 

How functional are aluminum side covers? I assume the idea is to help dissipate heat? Or are they all for show?

 

Cleaned up the Zipper and heading over Wolf Greek Pass Friday morning.

 

I don't know about Fords, but on Plymouth and Dodge Bros. flathead motors, there is almost no oil to cool, behind that very pretty side cover

 

[QUOTE="jim1932, post: 11025399, member: 139134e ]How functional are aluminum side covers? I assume the idea is to help dissipate heat? Or are they all for show?[/QUOTE]

The aluminium valve cover may transfer some heat but very little IMO
putting a cover on the left side has always been a mystery to me as they seam to create a air gap that will hold heat IMO
Ford bangers hold a lot of heat in the oil and lower crankcase so a aluminium finned sump such as the German G28 has would be better idea or cooler

 

I would like to be able to come up with a lot of BS and numbers about heat dissipation? but I just like the way the engine looks with them !

 

Good Luck at the Drags Dennis.

We will see you in Lincoln in two weeks at the Speedster Renion.

BTY: We won the "Unlimited" Class last weekend at the Sugar Valley Rally.

Bob

 

I was just looking and by the time I put a dual intake and cast headers on it, you aren't going to be able to see much of it anyway.

 

They are pretty much for show and a place to plumb in oil feeds etc. On the Ford "B" motors some think that adding small bolts to seal the oil galley are necessary, I just make the cover thicker and they seal with no problems.

 

What car are these T-5s coming out of?