Unfortunately there are currently none of the finned timing covers available. However, if you contact Jim who makes these parts, he can add you to the list for his next production run later this year.
Thanks fellas for the interest in the front timing covers. I have not produced a run in a while, got busy at my day job, coaching my kids sports, etc., so I took the web site down and slowed down with the hobby a bit. I am still driving my 1931 roadster around with a warmed up B, and working on a 1940 Indian project when I can find the time. I have been selling off stock for those who have been able to find me. Right now I have the smooth version of the front timing cover available with the same brass thrust bolt as the finned. I also made patterns for a finned oil filter mount and cover last year to offer to people (photo attached). The photo is of the first one now in use on my roadster. I have 4 or 5 of those available if anyone is interested and I still have a couple of the side covers available. The mag side drive required too much machining time to move it forward into production and hit a reasonable price point so those will not be available. I plan to run more of the finned timing covers late fall of this year. I have a list started for those covers, if anyone else is interested I will add you to the list. Steve is first in line! By the way, Woodie's Vintage Speed was named after my grandfather who passed away some time ago but when alive was a great engineer, loved all things mechanical and was an inspiration to me. He was a flight engineer on a B17 bomber during WWII and went on to work on an engineering team who developed prototype rockets for the space shuttle program. In his later years he repaired clocks and became a go to guy in his area. People trusted him with their rare antiques and he always delivered. Through the parts biz you all help me honor him a little so thank you for keeping it going! Thanks again, Jim Anderson Woodies Vintage Speed [email protected] 1-978-388-2776
Spent the last couple of days taking my "B" motor apart and not liking what I am seeing. Motor has had some previous work and it is sleeved, which is probably a good thing. Babbitt looks good on the mains but it is loose in the block. Brass shims on the mains. No shims on the rods. Crank, although counter weighted, will need to be cleaned up. I do not know the condition of the block at this point but it will need to be tanked and checked for cracks. What to do ??
Mike, This head started off as a Moller casting. It was originally to be a single stick so the valve guides were put in on an angle. I finished it off as a rocker arm since I had a block with the oversize cam. The TB was cast specifically for the application and I modified to common rail electronic inj. I am seriously thinking about the solid head machining an overhead. I have done a 2 pc flathead design and used O-rings between the two pcs with the studs holding it together. Show us pics when you get it close, J
Thanks for replying. Could you explain what you meant with "solid head machining." I think I have an idea of what you are talking about, but, I easily could be wrong. Thanks - Mike
i and i think several others have made our own flatheads without water. Seems like plenty of air cooled engines run without water. And a Flathead has no hot exhaust running through it. I took the water out of the block through the head next to the exhaust valves. Never seemed to have any trouble. Just thought I would mention that because of your two piece flathead statement.
Mike, Solid as in machined from block of alum. I see no need to use anything other than 6061 T6, it machines fairly easy and is adequate strength. As Rich says, some solid flatheads have no water at all. The one I am playing with has a water jacket over the chambers, as a result, it needs a 190° thermostat to run properly. IMHO, the priorities for making a solid overhead are Ports and efficient chamber shape. This Moller casting in the previous pictures was pretty good, I had to machine the chambers and place the sparkplugs. If Bonneville happens this year we will have some data from both heads and can make some comparisons. Oh, forgot to mention, some of the flatheads that run ElMo are solid motors, no water, run on alcohol. John
Thanks Rich & John for all the info. I'll probably try carving something up in wood to get an idea of 'how to' and what order to do things in so I don't 'carve' myself into a corner. Thanks again - Mike
In case you are interested, here is the other side of that engine. Showing two of the three FI adaptions that I did with it. 4 Suzuki bodies and two Ford 4.6 throttle bodies. I am sure your Cosworth unit will work well.
The Suzuki worked best and before that i had one throttle body from an F150 on long tubes. It and the nozzles were just behind the grill. Got a little ram air. That one worked slightly better. But you are talking less than 1 mph at El Mirage difference. And the motor was fresh with the 150 parts. The Suzuki came next and the 4.6 Ford parts last. So maybe it was just getting a little tired?
It might interest some, that when I had the Lotus 907 in the car and was running G/GR, I used one half of a 331 Chrysler set. Was the record holder for some years. My current plan is to use one side of a Hilborn lite weight set for a Sprint car with the Dodge W9 heads. Anybody who is interested in the outer half is welcome to make offer. These have 2 5/8 throttle plates $400 for the other half.
I've been working on setting up the fuel system on my banger. It's a stock a motor w tank in the rear of car. I have a carter 6v pump and got a holley regulator. I know it's best to put pump closest to tank so it can push the fuel. What about regulator placement? Closest to carb as possible? That's how I always ran them on my v8s. This is going to be a deadhead system also.
Still on the fence about throwing a bucket load of $$$`s at the "B" motor. As much as I wanted a banger in my pickup and a late model flattie would change the direction of my pre war build, I am having a hard time with the engine being an unknown variable. I am thinking if I could sell the Winfield yellow head, Burns dual intake with rebuilt Stromberg 81`s, original cast iron Mallory distributor that I have NOS points and rotor for, the counterbalanced "B" crank and some other desirable "B" parts, I may be able to fund a decent late Merc flathead.
I do the same a lot & all it does is cost me $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ . I try to be me & different at the same time . ive done lots of racing & I believe it is out of my system . I have had my coupe for like 15 yrs . many changes over the years & lots of lost $$$$$$$$$$ . my car is a daily driver year round . so full fenders , dependable transportation as it is my only car . I had the same debate as you , but A V8 is a worn out change . I had built a GOOD banger & alto I have changed things around , never wanted to get rid of the banger . banger / 5 speed & stock rear end with 3.27 gear . cruises all day at 60mph & gets 18mpg . I finally have the car im happy with .... pick yours . steve
Thanks Steve and also don`t want to have the belly button Deuce but have a struggle with throwing $$$$$$$$`s in the possibly wrong direction. I could end up in the same dilemma with a V8 flattie as well. What to do....
Id say try to get some seat time in a banger powered car. That should give you a better idea if its what you want. You could always sell your banger after its built and use the money to get a v8 flattie. Joe
yes , good idea . but if like me , never get my $$$ out of it . it is not a fast set-up , but a decent one . with a lil power & good trans & gears it will work well . if I lived in a big city & had to do a lot of freeway driving , I would not use the banger . but I do like blowing the doors off the older jap cars ! the "B" is the best banger with 5 mains ..... steve
There really isn't a "C" motor. Huge misnomer. The"C" crank is actually the 3rd generation "B" crank. 1st was similar to "A" but "B" dimensions, no counter weights. 2nd was Counter weights added on, sweat and pinned or welded. 3rd was cast with counter weights, or forged, I haven't looked that up. 5 bearing setups are very specifically built for racing or jubilant delinquents who need to smoke Flatty 8's. These girdles are just the beginning step in building a 5 bearing main motor. John
I guess I believe most all I hear . thanks for the clarification ! so my "A" counterweighted & balanced is as good as it gets with out major work ? I love learning ............ thanks
Of course, as i have demonstrated before. If you really want 5 mains, and your not in love with Henry Ford.
I think it's kind of fun to tell people that I could of built two SBC crate motors for the price of building a single banger!
Why lie to people, you could have built four!! Rich, very true. In any event, all of these are getting harder to find and we tend to hang on to this stuff forever. We need to start up a Vintage Motor Racing society where the qualification is how many chips are on the floor. Maybe next year we will have to find a few adult beverages in Utah, John
I appreciate people that actually know what they are saying . im misinformed on some things but am quick to admit & learn ........... you guys are great ................... steve
The Jalopy Journal
