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Hot Rods January banger meet ... 2013

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by V4F, Dec 31, 2012.

  1. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,209

    RussTee
    Member

    Brett compression test then take off the heads and check bores and valves I hate it when folks try to start a motor without checking bore for surface rust nothing wrecks a reasonable motor quicker probably more important than the state of the bearings.
    Rusty
     
  2. Thanks RussTee!

    Question....doing a compression test....I assume I remove all spark plugs, insert compression gauge, then turn over by hand?

    Can you recommend where to pick up a compression "gauge"?
     
  3. Weeks46
    Joined: Jul 11, 2008
    Posts: 1,495

    Weeks46
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  4. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,209

    RussTee
    Member

    Put the motor on a stand abd either use the starter or get someone to crank it over with even cranks starter is best remember dont crank too much until bores are checked
     
  5. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,209

    RussTee
    Member

    remember expensive rebuild in the past can be ruined in 5 min if thr bore has rust in it
     
  6. Binger
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,701

    Binger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from wyoming

    I have searched and searched the archives and couldn't find any answers for my set up. I have a couple of questions about setting up my 'A' engine to run a t-5. i have got the set up for mounting the T-5 to the bell housing but am unsure about the throw out bearing and the clutch disk. I am planning on having the flywheel lightened and running a V-8 clutch. What modifications do you need to make for the pilot bearing? what throw out bearing are people using and clutch disk? i have a disk that fits the transmission input shaft already. i have some photos i will post. thanks in advance.
     

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  7. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 7,383

    noboD
    Member

    Binger, you must be psychic. I talked to R.Hoover on Sat. and he said he just talked to your Mom. Good to see your progress.
     
  8. So-Cal Speed Sacramento
    Joined: Sep 6, 2008
    Posts: 463

    So-Cal Speed Sacramento
    Alliance Vendor
    from Sacramento

    that looks like an awesome project! i am digging the chassis work.
    you may want to talk to crazydaddyo on here. he has done a lot of the banger to T5 conversions.
     
  9. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,147

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    it needs an ... american outside diameter & a metric inside . make one or you should beable to get one from where you got your kit (or search online) . t/o bearing is stock "A" , clutch disc is .. S10 .. OR T5 .. v8 pressure plate ................
     
  10. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,184

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    Are you using the A or AA bellhousing? If you are using the A bell, then you need the extended hub clutch disk and input shaft extension that Auto Restorations sells. There phone number is 1-800-955-3139. He sells the throw out bearing adapter too.

    .
     
  11. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,184

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    Speaking of clutches, While my engine is out I've decided to upgrade my set up.

    I've had some issues with slipping at the drag strip so I was looking for a better/ bigger pressure plate. I was using a 9" unit from the Ford tractor (same as 9" flathead V-8 but with out the swing weights)

    I found a guy at a local swap meet that specializes in vintage clutch and pressure plates. I asked him what was available in 9 1/2" or 10". he gave me some samples and I took them home. For the stock A/B flywheel, the 9 1/2" is the biggest that will fit with out shrinking a ring on the out side.

    I had been running a B flywheel that was modifies for the V-8 pressure plate. When I bought it from Hell & Highwater they said it was 42#. I never weighed it until today. It weights 49.3 #.

    So this past Sunday I cut my "new" flywheel. Thinking I was running a 42# flywheel I was shooting to take this one down to @ 36#. I cut it to the drawing that was published in SOSS but because I had to leave the O.D. larger for the 9 1/2" pressure plate, it ended up at 39 1/2#. Suprized that I was only 3# lighter then what I was running. I put it back in the lathe to trim some more weight. That got it down to 37 1/2# and went home.


    [​IMG]


    Here is the "new" flywheel:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    This prompted me to weigh the "old" flywheel that was 49 1/2# and not 42#. So now I will have a 12# lighter flywheel instead of the 6# difference that I was planning on.


    .
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2019
  12. telecustom
    Joined: Feb 17, 2009
    Posts: 336

    telecustom
    Member
    from Langey, BC

    So Cool! How did you mount the flywheel in the chuck of the lathe?
     
  13. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,184

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    I had an old crank that was not good, so I cut the rear of it off just behind #4 throw. I mounted that in a 4 jaw chuck. Indicated it zero. Bolted the fly wheel to that. That way I could flip the flywheels around with out re addjusting the chuck. I found that the flywheels stayed tru within @ .0015 TIR. worked slick!!!!!!

    .
     
    Dannerr likes this.
  14. gemcityrenegade
    Joined: Jun 9, 2007
    Posts: 171

    gemcityrenegade
    Member

    Are these Banger threads kindof like a feature and then post about banger stuff after>? I've just finished getting a '31 Roadster running with two 97's. Still need to button up the plumbing and wiring then adjust the brakes. Maybe take it for a test run up to the church and back..
    [​IMG]
     
  15. walls
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 535

    walls
    Member

    The banger threads I believe are just to keep all the info condensed instead of strewn about the entire board.
    Basically all things related to the motor and making it run. Engine internals, carb selection, speed parts, transmission adaptors, timing, etc...
    I believe there's a couple non ford bangers hanging around too.

    Nice car.
    Can you post the details of your windshield if you know them (how much chop, and stanchions)? Are they cut down deluxe or are they standards? I have the lowers on mine but need to buy the rest. 30/31 stanchions are about $270. So I don't want to make a mistake when buying.
     
  16. ^^^Also, I'd like to know what it took to get the 2 97s running on the banger. Jets, settings, etc.
     
  17. ebtm3
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 837

    ebtm3
    Member

    Binger-

    Nice work on that frame, but you better get some cross members in there or the rear end is going to do a lot of steering on it's own--and just maybe not in the direction that you want to go. Don't count the rear engine mount as a X member--it has rubber mounts, and the Ford flywheel housings are notorious for cracking.

    Herb
     
  18. Elrod
    Joined: Aug 7, 2002
    Posts: 3,561

    Elrod
    Member

  19. That's what I'd run if I had the $$$$$! Really cool!
     
  20. Rivet
    Joined: Oct 16, 2005
    Posts: 280

    Rivet
    Member

    Anyone have dimensions on a three carb intake centerline to centerline? And less importantly on a two carb intake. I am in the middle of fabricating my own aluminum intake and want to keep things "standard" for the sake of premade linkages.

    Been busy on my project, after a few years of owning the car and letting her sit I have actually started working on her. Have the tank out for recoating, exhaust, found a head cam and lifters, still waiting on a distributor from bubbas but over all it's going good. Here are some photos.

    Next week I'll get going on the installing the drop axle, reversing the eyes on the front spring, t rear spring and doing the kingpin bushings.

    After I need to finish the intake, cam install, crank inspection, a little port work, and lighten the flywheel. Still on the fence about fenders or no fenders.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  21. Rivet

    Man, your post came at an opportune time! I'm getting close to being in the same boat with my tudor. Much the same plan.

    I'll get you the 2-pot measurements off my Burns intake when I get home, but I can tell you they align pretty well with the intake ports.

    Where'd you get the cam/lifters? Do you have specs?

    Awesome head and nice exhaust!
     
  22. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,147

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    not to rain on your parade , but i tried the "T" rear spring & didnt like the stance . using a "A" reversed eye with leaves out .
     
  23. That header is fantastic! Want to make me one? :)
     
  24. How much (if any) drop did you notice with the T spring? Was it a 9-leaf?
     
  25. Elrod
    Joined: Aug 7, 2002
    Posts: 3,561

    Elrod
    Member

    BEFORE T SPRING

    [​IMG]


    AFTER "T" SPRING AND 4" DROPPED AXLE (NOT PHOTOSHOPPED. Looks like it!)

    [​IMG]
     
  26. ^^I love that car
     
  27. Elrod,

    Should I expect roughly the same stance on my 31 Tudor given the same changes?
     
  28. Elrod
    Joined: Aug 7, 2002
    Posts: 3,561

    Elrod
    Member

    Yessir! :)

    If you have someone riding in the back of your Tudor though, you may get a LOT more bottom out on the frame. I've basically reduced the suspension travel but I'm in a coupe with nothing in the trunk, in a fairly well paved city and I slow down over rail road tracks, so I am usually just fine. I have a Ken Davis shock kit installed in the back to dampen the ride. I only seem to bottom out if I'm going over a speed bump faster than 15-20 mph.

    You may want to more seriously consider a frame kick up in a car with a back seat. Do it now before your passengers complain later!
     
  29. Would reversing the eyes and shifting the leaves around be better for my application? I ask only because I just picked up a T spring for this very application.
     

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