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Technical ***January 2020 Banger Thread. Happy New Year!***

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Dec 31, 2019.

  1. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 26,401

    The37Kid
    Member

    [​IMG] DSCF0766.JPG DSCF0765.JPG Radiator hose to protect the gear is traditional.:confused: Every lobe was ground on a grind stone, photos don't show that. Think they made a test profile and finished with a file in the old days. Bob
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2020
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  2. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 980

    johnneilson
    Member

    Could be
    Not all spoken for
    J
     
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  3. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 980

    johnneilson
    Member

    Bob

    yes I have copper plate done before rough grind
    This makes carburizing of wear surfaces and the rest soft

    John
     
    Old Dawg likes this.
  4. PhredH
    Joined: Feb 28, 2015
    Posts: 64

    PhredH

    My Model A flywheel currently has the V8 clutch, and at first glance it may need bit of attention.
    I have heard of a GM clutch being used with our Model A's.

    If this is a not uncommon modification, is there any advantage to that clutch over the V8 clutch?

    What clutch is used?

    Will my Model A flywheel that is modified for the V8 clutch need any additional machining other than properly located mounting holes?

    Does the Model A throw out bearing system still work with this mod?

    Is there a clutch disc that fits this clutch and the Ford input shaft or does the input shaft need to be replaced?

    Thanks in advance for any experienced input and any other things I may have not questioned.

    Peace, Phred
     
  5. mdimages
    Joined: Sep 13, 2019
    Posts: 62

    mdimages
    Member

     
  6. jadz928
    Joined: Dec 15, 2019
    Posts: 35

    jadz928
    Member
    from Michigan

    '29 Roadster w/Model B & Miller Schofield OHV - first startup since 1985.
     
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  7. ghalperin
    Joined: Dec 10, 2012
    Posts: 182

    ghalperin
    Member

    Does anybody have any early Mallory instructions?
     
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  8. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,972

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    do not know about gm clutch .
    is your flywheel already using v8 clutch ?
    yes on throw out brg
    I believe the ford clutch will work with stock trans
    hope this helps …………. steve
     
  9. I need recommendations on a seal set up for the front and rear of the oil pan for a Model B. This does not have any enhanced oiling. just looking for a better set up than the rope and cork set up.
     
  10. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 255

    railcarmover

    [​IMG]
    Fun time,running fuel lines,buffing headlights,fabbing stands.Gonna run 8000 lumen LED's,fella give me a pair of reflectors for H4 halogen..be a menace to safe motoring,blinding all those who approach me :)
     
  11. Fabber McGee
    Joined: Nov 22, 2013
    Posts: 800

    Fabber McGee
    Member

    I bought a "C" head at the Turlock Swap Meet on Saturday. How much can I safely shave it?
     
  12. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,542

    97
    Member

    I was always told that for what you increased the compression by it's not worth the effort! ...to plane a Model A head. I was always told 0.080 is as far as you can go without wrecking it...and that is from stock....AND if you do take 80 thou off and also clean the block you can get about 125 between the two of them, BUT you have to be careful you don't have pistons above the block surface. If so you will need a thick gasket which will just undo all your hard work!.

    http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/ABcylinderheadcomparison.htm
     
  13. ghalperin
    Joined: Dec 10, 2012
    Posts: 182

    ghalperin
    Member

    It looks great.
    As far as the headlight mods, this is from: http://www.audettecollection.com/
    D973E59C-4B1D-492E-97DE-19EEECFEE514.jpeg
    A3D4F9BB-8969-4521-ACA7-547BAC63351C.jpeg
     
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  14. ghalperin
    Joined: Dec 10, 2012
    Posts: 182

    ghalperin
    Member

    I’m adjusting my crank babbitts. Should I use new ARP nuts or reuse the original nuts? I’m replacing the rod nuts with ARP. The cotter pins were not installed on the main cap nuts when I took it apart.
     
  15. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 24,157

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

  16. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,594

    BCCHOPIT
    Member

    Happy New year Bob!!!!


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  17. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,594

    BCCHOPIT
    Member

    Not much Mr. Ford didn’t leave us much meat


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  18. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 255

    railcarmover

  19. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 255

    railcarmover

    The combustion chamber design is what screws you for raising compression.Shaving is a minimal increase
     
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  20. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 255

    railcarmover

    In my opinion the land the nut rides on is as important as the nut itself,I used hard washers and quality grade 8 nuts,instead of cranking the nut against the grey iron.

    Using cotter pins to hold torque is a waste,tension can degrade against the pin. A torque value is designed to place the fastener in tension,basically the assembly 'stretches' the bolt,locking the threads.I use blue locktite, anaerobic sealants like loctite provide a means of retaining the assembly without potential loss of tension as with a cotter pin.
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2020
  21. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 980

    johnneilson
    Member

    I can't disagree with the above statements, all true.
    One factor though is no one looks at the bolts themselves.
    I have seen some yielded past tension and would not hold any torque.
    My 0.02$, not to be an advertisement, but I have never had any of Dan McEachern's main bolts fail or yield.
    Not to mention they are sized properly, diameter.
    Personally, I like to use the ARP 12pt nuts wherever I can, expensive, yes, but very seldom have to replace.
    One trick from a well known builder here, on stock rods, the castle nuts have very little full thread length.
    This is a place where ARP 12pt nuts are your friend.

    John
     
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  22. "Mock it Up" before you do anything! That way you'll be able to know and decide what you want to do! "Been there, done that"!
     
  23. stubbsrodandcustom
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,185

    stubbsrodandcustom
    Member
    from Spring tx

    Even though I sold my banger coupe, still love to come here and dream, Another banger but hotrod banger tudor sedan is in the future I think....
     

    Attached Files:

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  24. Fabber McGee
    Joined: Nov 22, 2013
    Posts: 800

    Fabber McGee
    Member

    Okay, thanks guys. I have a B engine in a 31 closed cab pickup wearing a cracked A head. Just planned on replacing the busted one with this one and thought it would be good to take off about .125 if I could. I guess we'll just cut it enough to clean it and slap it on there.
     
  25. lake_harley
    Joined: Jun 4, 2017
    Posts: 801

    lake_harley
    Member

    Here's a link to a thread on fordbarn that might at least give some information and it seems to be quite a well informed post. Scroll down to post #11 by Purdy Swoft. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48414&showall=1 I believe it's all based on a stock Model A head, but it might give some guidance on your "C" head, and I'd think it would be of interest to the stock Model A head crowd that might want a bit more compression "on the cheap".

    Lynn
     
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  26. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 255

    railcarmover

    Youll catch 4.8 to 1 or so,they start at 4.6..but hell yeah,run that sucker till one falls in your lap
     
  27. ghalperin
    Joined: Dec 10, 2012
    Posts: 182

    ghalperin
    Member

    Do you have a part number for those ARP main bolt nuts?
     
  28. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 980

    johnneilson
    Member

  29. ghalperin
    Joined: Dec 10, 2012
    Posts: 182

    ghalperin
    Member

  30. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 980

    johnneilson
    Member

    That would be my choice, the SS ones are too expensive.
    Also, check pricing at Jegs and Summit racing, also Red's headers, Victor I think has them.
    http://www.reds-headers.com/html/contact_us.html
     

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