Its Jan 1, 2012 ..... New Years Day ..... come on banger boys, its time to play

Hello

I've been debating weather to put ask this question in this thread or the thread about the Chevy banger.

I have been thinking about using a Cheve 1928 head for an overhead conversion on a model A. But is there any point besides bragging rights? Does it flow better then the model A? will I be able to get a better running engine due to higher compression? What are the pros and cons?

Based on what I have seen a model A with high compression head, a bigger cam and more carburation will get 70 hp quite easily. So based on that the stock valves and ports will flow enough to make that kind of power with fairly low compression. Will an unported Chevy head flow enough for 70 hp? It seems to be a waste of time and energy if I can't get the same power from this as I can get from a flatheaded model A.

Thanks,
Magnus

 

Hi Magnus I have fitted a 28 chev head to a model t performance is good and as I did the work myself it was very cost effective the big plus is by nutting it out and doing it myself I learnt one hell of a lot far more than just bolting on a few parts. Its not the point that you measure the last bit of horse power or measure the exact compression ratio it is firstly getting it going then fine tuneing your engineering by adjusting compression ratios porting bigger valves ect . No I will not say what I did other than you need a one inch mild steel plate two stock head gaskets (Chev and Ford) which you wont be running a heap of basic common sense about motors and combustion chambers and get to it . In fact I would recommend any one whos on the banger thread give it a go it will certainly help your understanding of banger motors and help prevent a lot of chump questions.
This of course is on a tee motor where it certainly improved performance heaps cant speak for an A or B motor but have heard they go better.
The whole point is not about performance its about the joy of doing and gaining the understanding of our motors.
PS I think you could get a flathead motor going better or as well with add on parts but it would cost money and you may not learn as much if it is just power you want a belly button small block Chev is cheaper but no where near the fun performance bangers aint cheap

 

RussTee, what do you know about fitting Ford Ten dizzys to a banger?
I just got one off LIFESTYLZ, and it fits like a glove.
Im told i need the gear driven one, and not the later chain drive, as this dosent have advance/retard.

 

FB Thread w/discussion on Snyders inserted rods....

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60179

 

Jeff I would not use one they are hard to get parts for and built in the early 50s go for a early Nissan 4 cylinder electronic they are brilliant and can be set up for the a/b motor means going to 12 volt but you will never have starting probs. There is a wee bit of work to get them to fit into the head and you have to make a new spacer shaft to drive it but they are the best and dirt cheap dont muck around with anything else.
Good progress there mate keep it up Rusty

 

Thanks Rusty. I am converting to 12 volt, but wanted to stay old school. I can make exceptions for repopped parts from China, but couldnt bring myself to using Japanese parts.

 

Thanks for the link!!!!!!!

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What's new with all your toys DaddyO???????

 

Hello Kewijeff : There is a new Mallory dist. ( type YS 701 AVC ) that is available, with mech advance. As you can see it will need some work. Removal of the gear and a spade machined on the shaft to fit the "A or B". Here is a picture of the dist. and contact info from Aug 2009. At that time they were approx. $ 50.00

Buy direct from Van’s Electrical Service 2541 Kentucky Ave
Indianapolis IN 46221, email [email protected] or phone
317.240.5900, or 800.428.4049 and ask for Gary McKinney.
Gary in MN

 

Just enjoing the great weather any chance I get.
70° this morning. So I went for a drive in the Tudor before starting the chores

 

I got to drive mine 3 times this week. It was a little cooler then 70

I hope to get to drive my Tudor in 2-3 weeks
It will be lower and faster then the last time it went around the block

 

Did some work on the brakes yesterday. Got it up to 60 mph on flat ground.

Your Tudor is looking good!!!!

'

 

What a contrast ! I took this picture yesterday in the back yard.
Anyone want to buy a house ?
Ron ( Hibernating in Thunder Bay)

 

Sorry Ron, as much as I hate all the people that live in So Cal, the weather is what keeps me here.

.

 

Would you hate me if I only stayed for 3 months at a time Crazy ?
Ron

 

Ron

This winter in So Cal hasn't been ''Really good!''

Sometimes it was warmer in Europe

 

You won't believe this Jim but I was just sitting here about to post an APB out on you . Hope you are having a better winter than I am up here. Not that it has been so bad but I'm just tired of it. Great to hear from you !
Ron

 

Not so bad down here in the south seas but then it is summer started putting the 34 axle in to replace the A one certainly makes a difference struggling a bit have a broken shoulder thanks to earthquakes but should finish it tonite then its quickchange and overdrive 26 degrees celsius tomorrow to damm hot

 

Pictures of Max's fabricated front mount that fits on V8 frame mount. The other two pictures are of a project that I started in 1958 to install a B crank & Buick pistons. The parts went thru 3 owners in that time & nobody went any further. The person that I got them from didn't know that I was a previous owner. The engine is going to go into my son's RPU in time for the Santa Margarita event. The intent is to get him further interested to make streetable after the meet. If my health doesn't fail & the river doesn't rise we should be able to make it. Pat

 

what do we have here????


do you have any pics of the rear mounts

 

Combination oil filter mount & pressure regulator, the bypass line goes to the gear cover. Kinda hard to get good pictures laying on the floor, but there's one from the rear that shows the mount pretty good, and it's not from S-Way Motors. P

 

You're looking at a pressure regulator mounted on top of a filter mount with the bypass line going to the gear cover. Hard to get good pictures laying on the floor but you should be able to get the idea of how the rear is mounted. Pat

 

Pat,
This block is set up fro a "F" head?
2 Port Riley?

What size are the Exhaust Valves?
No Valve seats?



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26 - damn thats near bloody freezing - I went out to the garage the other day and it was 37 C IN THE Garage. Turned around and went back inside!!!

 

yep so its true those you blokes are cold blooded!

 

CD, this block has been running with a Jenkins F head for 3 years now. It was recently taken down because the exhaust valves & seats didn't get along together. The seats weren't as big as the od of the valve and there was erosion on the valve face. It wasn't obvious that there were seats in the block till I tried to regrind them, so it's going to get new larger seats. The valves are stainless with chrome stems & 5.785 long & 1.728 head dia. They are available from Pete's machine in Albuquerque. So now the engine will have to be pulled & dismantled to replace the seats, can't risk getting dings in the paint job. Here's a pic of the car at Santa Maria All Ford Car Show. Pat

 

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Very Nice!!!

 

Feb Banger Meet has started Here:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=667163

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