Its Jan 1, 2012 ..... New Years Day ..... come on banger boys, its time to play

It's finally official!!!! There will be a hill climb at Santa Margarita July 7th, be there! Pat

 

^^^^^^
You guys have all the fun

 

Dang me! Pat! That's great news! Though, it IS going to be a hot "moe-diga" on the Ranch that time of year. You guys from up, over the hill are use to it. Us "whooses", down, over the "Grade", have to get used to the heat.. But, we'll just have to don big hats and be there, to help out. Tell Max to let me know when the planning meetings are to be held. I'll let the non-HAMB'rs and non-For-Ever-Fours know. I think we've got to spread the work load out, so that we can keep that event alive

By the way. You "out-of towners" are not to "sweat it'. All you have to do is drive 15 minutes; and sit in he cool fog of Morro Bay. So, put it on your calendar; and be there. It's worth the trip.

JOHN

 

hmmm...what do we have here...

 

Looks like a Model T Speedster, to me!:cool

 

Good start fur biscut, from mental image to graphic image. Check out Pete Eastwood's build. Very simular.

Ron

 

Last week I picked up the B engine I bought last year. Let's see, head off? Clotted cream?



Well, it did come from Devon. Some pitted bores and stuck solid, but the white metal is sound so far. Might try and get it built to put behind my solid hood sides...

 

worked till the wee hours. got more of it out of my head. It looks very close to Mr. Eastwoods car, as in my opinion, he built the seminal brass speedster. I will admit to the following cues from his car...the torpedo hood and gas tank. Some of the stuff I will use from my previous speedster, the mercer seats and the lowering brackets that I pinched from Dr. Porsche.

the basic premis is that (had) Ford decided to go to the Coup d'Auto in 1911 what could they have build out of the parts bin. A few of the items though are for modern convenience and or safety. not going to build a 100mph speedster with stock T steering.

chassis notes:

93" wb 9" drop front, 8" drop rear

30 x 3.5 wheels

front lowering bracket with a 7" drop, providing between a 3" to 4" suicide depending on how I want to balance the chassis

chevy spindles

corvair steering box

split front wishbones, on an early set of spring perches.

taper leaf springs (reversed eye) front and rear

early model A rear wishbones, split and shortened.

large drum ruckstell 3:1 r&p, don't want to mess with all that mickey mouse rock mountain stuff.

stock t steering column

brass rad, torpedo hood, torpedo gas tank.

Mercer seats, random steering wheel.

the engine...well

 

This is how I did my front drop.



T rear cross member with 1/2" plate through to the back side.

Ron

 

that is clean.

What i will be attempting to achieve is a period piece, something that looks like it came out of a black smiths shop. whether or not I am able to get that remains to be seen.

 

Ah fellow Calvin n' Hobbes fan - reckon you need on of these...?



Sorry - don't have the dropframe spindles to match.

 

How cool is this...
Jan. 24-2012 and I get to drive my car to work.
It's in the 40s today

 

I did a Search and couldn't find really what I was looking for.

My model A Thread is here http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=626730


My plans are changing a little. I have been going towards getting the Coupe back on the road with the banger power for this summer and then moving into a 32 railed chassis with a 312 Tri Powered Y block.


However I think that may be a year or two down the road so I want to spend a little on the banger to get it to pull a little harder and look a little cooler.


The car runs now, I put maybe 50 miles on it last summer before I tore into the car. No rattles, or smoke, but not built by anymeans either. It is stock.


I am going to limit my budget to $1000 tops. That eliminates an overhead conversion.

I am thinking a high compression head, downdraft intake with a 97, one of Matt's lake headers, Mallory dual point distributor with mechanical advance.
I happen to have a 97 that is good, don't really know about two of them? And a couple of the finned aluminum pieces here and there.


Can you guys give me some insight or guidence on what direction, or how I should proceed.

 

ah, a conspirator of G.R.O.S.S., very good, very good.[/FONT][/COLOR]

yes, that particular piece would make my day, that and a RHD ally hogshead with pedals.

Would that be a price tag on there?...

I have a set of 1" dropped spindles, so "all" I need is that little bit of forging work.

Any chance that it might be teleported (or fedex'ed) to this side of the pond?

 

HILL CLIMB NOTICE: We're doing it again in Auburn Calif. May 4,5, & 6
Go to www.hotforhotfours.com click on Nor-Cal News Letter for more info.
Hope to see some of you at our ten car F.A.S.T. exhibit at the Sacramento Autorama
in the Pavillion building and at our hill climb in May.

 

Furby,

I have a set of early Chevorlet spindles (pre front brake) if you need them

 

now that makes life just to easy.

 

I'm sure it could make it across the pond. I have someone Oklahoma bound in the next 4 weeks and a salesman inbound from Mass, who'll no doubt be returning...
Does that look like the sort of hand luggage that may involve rubber gloves at check in though?

 

I carried an axle as personal luggage under the "one free piece of sports equipment" clause.... wrapped it in stretch wrap/Pallet wrap with a piece of heavy cardboard around the center and a rope handle at the balance point.
Went three airlines and 12000 miles.... with my "sports equipment". Only one idiot doubted me and asked me what it was for and I said "Hill Climbing" !! I guess you could also say weightlifting...!!

 

I would add a B cam or B grind on an A cam to the list.

 

Would that require going to dual Carbs?

 

No not needed but 2 small carbs looks cool.
If you go with a bigger cam then you need more or bigger carbs to get the most out of the cam.

 

Well then, they're $1000 apiece and $3000 for the pair

just kidding- pm me so we can talk!

 

I bought a modern valve kit from Snyders last year and it came with some fancy valve guides:


I'm thinking of using them in the clotted cream B engine if the rest of it turns out OK but I'm, now wondering has anyone had any experience of these guides? Anyone used them with bigger valves? I'm hoping to insert the block so I may as well up the inlet valve size anyway. Is there a valve that will work with these guides and is available off the shelf in the UK?

 

Monkeybiker, when you send the axle over to Furb, would you mind suffing that B crank in the package for me... I'm sure you wouldn't want to keep it

 

Can you point to which one you mean...? Hahahahaha, yes it's my picture, but it's not my hoard!

 

!!!!!!!!!!

 

I've used their guides, I just wish they fit the block a little closer, but certainly more friendly than pound in guides which sometimes slip in because of an oversize hole. I just ordered some valves from Pete's Machine that will work in Intake or Exhaust. Made from stainless steel, the head is 1.740 dia. & the stem is .341 & overall length is 5.785, don't know what the original application is. Pete's phn. 1-505-836-3110, Pat

 

ANY of these, please

 

Guess you don't want to know that's the top layer of a stack four feet high...