Technical Is my setup strong enough? Cowl Steering Question

No, needs to be steel, it'll break down at the bottom where the drag link attaches. Get in touch with Ross Steering people or the like such Schroeder Racing Products in Burbank Ca.

 

I appreciate this simulation as I am a cad guy as well but that is a lot of movement for an early model vehicle. I understand it’s for demonstration purposes but it also demonstrates how little it would actually move if you suspension moves, what an inch and a half.

 

I agree with everyone else. Very cool looking but I would not trust it. Like they say, nothing built too strong ever broke.

 

But also some things built too strong could never move.

 

Hand up anyone that hasn't heard of an axle key shearing off just going around a corner with a squirt of throttle?

 

Reminds me of my brother, "I was just driving normal when it (whatever) broke", never mentioning the 1000 times he hammered the snot out of it.

 

Hi if it's the box flexing I would consider a mounting plate made of stainless 403 and design it to web in with whatever you can attach it to stainless is not flexible and looks alright set off with your stainless hdwe

 

Potholes in and around Motown? I recently swapped to a different DD because I blew 3 tires in 18 months from the holes around here. You avoid one to drive right into another. They were badass Pirelli run flats too, you'd think strength right? So bad that defensive driving didn't help in some areas. Would I want to hit any of them with that arm? No thanx. Then when they do fresh pavement and the mopes don't raise or lower the manholes? You think potholes suck, hit one of those unaware. Just hit one with a 3500 GMC last week. I'd like to find that asshole and have a "discussion" with em.

 

I would suggest that all that flexing you mentioned is what is keeping that little brass arm from snapping (so far).

I like the MOPAR or Corvair box replacement idea with a good pitman arm. You could just paint, dip or try to plate the new pitman to keep the general look.

 

Too funny ... quite a few years ago a friend of mine and his wife moved to Detroit (from Ontario Canada). She took a position as a manager of some sort at the large company they both worked for (same company they worked for in Canada). Not long after taking over as manager in Detroit, she noticed a few too many people coming in late with the same excuse ... "I got a flat on the way to work". She figured something else was up so she asked other managers and they all stated "nope, it's legit ... the roads around here are so bad that it is VERY common for people to show up late due to flat tires. No one is lying to you, they ARE getting that many flats".

 

Closeing this out, This is what I made after seeing silmilar on here, 1/2 steel with brass overlay to keep the look. Powder coated the steelblack to fade into the background

 

This is probably still in the mockup stage but if not the bolt needs to fully pass through the elastic part of the Nylock locknut.

 

Agree, it is not tightened up, was checking clearance. i also will be drilling for safety wire...

 

I’d ditch the nylock for something like these https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/drillnutsnas509.php

 

I'd like to disagree on that one. All that's needed is to actually understand how steering geometry actually works. If the steering arm coming from the cowl is the same length, and on parallel planes with the hairpins, no bump steer(or very minimal) will be noticeable. There may be some there, but you should be able to minimize it if you can't eliminate it. Is it an easy thing to accomplish? No, it's not. Is it achievable? Absolutely. All it'll take is time with a bump steer gauge, welder and a grinder. Tack the mount, check the bump, move the mount, check the bump. And repeat as needed. This all comes from a racecar background. Geometry is geometry.

Here is a link to a diy gauge: https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-bump-steer-gauge

Do your thing. Listen, not always right, to what folks say, do your research and you'll get it.

 

And dozens of Rolling Bones cars prove they work. So, lets agree to disagree.

 

I highlighted part of your quote. You describe ALL our buggy sprung hot rods. None of these are rock crawlers. And I still call BS on that vid that Hot Rod Works posted, the movement shown is exaggerated to prove a point. In the real world, Ken and Keith have satisfied customers that drive the piss outta their cars. Not to mention others including myself that designed and built cowl steer cars that work excellent.

 

My daily 2000 Ford Ranger actually had more bump steer than my touring. And the steering wheel had an oblong path in its rotation. Actual engineers designed that one...

 

Back to the OP, looks like a great improvement!!! And you managed to keep the vibe the same!