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Is anyone doing lead work in so.cal?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by SMOKINFLATHEAD, Jul 1, 2009.

  1. SMOKINFLATHEAD
    Joined: Apr 2, 2008
    Posts: 502

    SMOKINFLATHEAD
    Member
    from SOCAL

    I have these two panels on my F1 that have a small oval shape that I want to shave. The panels behind the headlights. The problem is the panels are single sheet and can " oil-can". The properties of the panel are all stock and straight. SO, I would like to have someone lead over them due to the flexability. I would weld them but Its not worth risking the warping," then I'd be screwed.
     
  2. Special Ed
    Joined: Nov 1, 2007
    Posts: 7,034

    Special Ed
    Member

    If it is flexible, the lead will crack. IMHO, lead is the last thing you want to use. Lead will crack on any panel over time.
     
  3. brewsir
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 3,278

    brewsir
    Member

  4. cleatus
    Joined: Mar 1, 2002
    Posts: 2,277

    cleatus
    Member
    from Sacramento

    It would be easier to find someone who knows how to add a little tension to the panel to keep it from oil canning.
     

  5. cleatus
    Joined: Mar 1, 2002
    Posts: 2,277

    cleatus
    Member
    from Sacramento

    Mr. Hines could do both
    But really, once the panel is fixed of the flex, there would be little need for lead.

    After re-reading your post, it sounds like you want to shave small oval openings with just lead? That won't work.
    Even if it is thin sheet, a good metal man can easily delete the ovals without warping the sheet.
     
  6. SMOKINFLATHEAD
    Joined: Apr 2, 2008
    Posts: 502

    SMOKINFLATHEAD
    Member
    from SOCAL

    The ovals are not holes. They are some wierd factory area that is a hole with a matching piece that is tacked in place. The reason it "oil-cans" is that there is a 90 degree flange on three of the four sides. The bottom is open and allows the movement. One thought I had was to Rosette weld the bottom to a lenght of thin guage angle. this would keep the movement down, and would allow me to shrink the pop-top section out. I just see it as alot of work for a small "groove" more or less that I want to eliminate. Any thoughts. I would post a pic, but I'm at work.
     
  7. Call 401K Hot Rods in Anaheim and talk to Chris. Awesome lead guy.
     
  8. Hail Satin
    Joined: Jun 2, 2009
    Posts: 38

    Hail Satin
    Member

    Give Gene a call. (661)824-4728

    If it can be done, he can do it; if it can't be done, he'll figure out how to do it.
     
  9. SMOKINFLATHEAD
    Joined: Apr 2, 2008
    Posts: 502

    SMOKINFLATHEAD
    Member
    from SOCAL

    Ok, I just got home and wanted to add a few pictures of the area that I'm wanting to eliminate. So, here they are.


    air deflectors 001.jpg
    This one you can see the oval I'm talking about best.
    air deflectors 002.jpg
    This one the oval is there just hard to see, but you can tell it's just going to need the smallest amount of filler.
    air deflectors 003.jpg
    Here is the side view where you can see the open side (side that doesn't have a flange) which allows the movement.
     
  10. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey,

    Idea #3 says : why don't you just replace the panels with flat sheet?

    These are the baffel panels behind the headlamp buckets,no? I've an F100,
    'bout same design wise, and I boleve these were originaly bolted to the valance panel.

    I'd cut some 3/4-1'' thick plywood in the shape of those baffels, cut some 18-19 gage cold roll steel sheet the size of the baffel, plus the size of the flanges added to this measurement, clamp the blank of steel sheet between the cut out plywood pieces, and hammerform the flanges on the ends of the panels. Drill holes as necessary, and paint to suit. No welding or leading required!

    Swankey Devils C.C.
    "Spending A Nation Into Generational Debt Is Not An Act Of Compassion!"
     
  11. The ovals are pretty simple to remove with a torch. shrink the oval area down and planish it back out flat. no filler needed. I have done a few of these before in this manner. filling it with lead will put just as much heat into the panel as fixing it the right way.
     

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