I have a 56 210 with a 235 and a Glide. Ever since I got the car twelve years and 15,000 miles ago (currently has 63,000) the transmission has always done the following. Around turns the transmission will slip out of gear the re-engage once youve completed the turn. This happens going around intersection turns, mostly to the right, acting as if it is low on fluid but is in fact full. Eventually second gear went out because the governor gear stripped. I got the box rebuilt. The transmission worked great except it still slips around turns. Also, from a dead stop after sitting at a light, the transmission disengages from first then jumps into gear when you give it gas. The owner of the shop test drove the car after I brought it back and witnessed these issues. He has been unable to diagnose it. He thinks that there is a pan baffle that prevents this slipping and mine is missing. He doesnt have a manual to verify nor an iron case Glide available for comparison. He is trying to locate another Glide to compare. I will scour my shop manual as well for the baffle. Has anyone else here dealt with the same thing? Is there anyone in the Houston area that has an iron case Glide from a tri-five six cylinder Chevy I can use as a reference? Thanks in advance for all your help.
The slipping from a dead stop only occirs when the transmission is good and warmed up. PLEASE HELP!!! THE WEATHER IS GETTING BETTER IN HOUSTON AND I WANT TO CRUISE IN STYLE WORRY FREE!!!
I asked my dad about this. He said first of all, try adding extra fluid in it even though it marks full. He said that if did not work, remove the cover on the passenger side were the dip stick goes, after that there should be two bolts that bolt a screen in place. Check the screen to see if it is partially clogged or torn. Also see if it has its correct o-ring or groumet on it. Dad dosen't remember if it is a groumet or an o-ring. Hope this helps.
Ah the famous slip-n-slide powerglide, I don't remember any baffles and the aluminum case units also had cavitation issues on a right turn. deep pans help, as does fuel cell foam cut to clear filter and fill pan but overfilling causes foaming and poor clutch/band applications and burnup. The stoplight issue could be valve body half/gasket misalignment or throttle valve issues.
Is it possible that someone at some time may have replaced the dipstick tube or dipstick? If so you may be reading full when you are actually low on fluid. My$0.02
I have filled the transmission till it is puking out of the dipstick tube. EVERYONE HAS BEEN A HUGE HELP WITH THIS ISSUE!!! I FEEL LIKE I AM ARMED WITH GOOD INFORMATION TO SHARE WITH THE TRANSMISSION SHOP AND THAT THEY WILL BE ABLE TO REPAIR MY PROBLEM!!! THANKS!!! Check out the summarry of feedback from various other sources. From www.chevytalk.org The problem with the tranny slipping on turns, even though the fluid level is OK is a very simple, and cheap to fix, situation. Unfortunately most people don't know how to fix the problem, and it goes on so long that it wears out the clutch discs and causes other problems. The initial slippage problems on turns is caused by a 50 cent O-ring located at the top of the pick-up arm/filter. This is accessed by taking the cover off the passenger side of the tranny, right where the filler tube is located. After that cover is off, you will see the pick-up/filter assembly. Remove the two bolts and you can slide out that assembly. On the end of that assembly is a flat O-ring that is causing air to leak into the system when you make a turn. When going straight, the fluid level is above that portion of the pick-up tube so it will just suck in fluid instead of air. With any luck, you can replace this seal, replace the side cover gasket, adjust the two bands, and you will be good to go. If not, you may have to change the clutch discs in which case you should do a complete rebuild. I would not go to the guy that you talked with before since it is obvious that you would be paying for his education of Powerglide operation. Once you drain the tranny, I believe that you have six 1/2" bolts to remove to get the side cover out of the way, including the filler tube. Then I believe there are either two 1/2" or two 7/16" bolts inside to remove that will release the suction tube/filter. They are right at the front, upper right side. With it will come the rubber sealing ring. Once you replace it, and install a new side cover gasket, it is a good idea to replace the o-ring at the base of the filler tube. The filter itself is a very fine brass screen and you can clean it while it is out. Put it all back together, fill the tranny and you are good to go. If you need to adjust the low and reverse bands, again, there are no special tools needed. In the service manual are the instructions, which are pretty straight forward. The condition is usually pretty common in vehicles that are not driven on a regular basis, or sat idle for a period of time during their life. While sitting, I guess the seal is exposed to the air and hardens/dries out somewhat. Cheap fix to an otherwise good tranny, and can be done without dropping the tranny. I'm sure there have been a lot of Powerglides that went for a complete rebuild because they didn't know what was causing the slippage. Obviously after a complete rebuild, it would be fixed, but at a much higher cost. Let us know what you find. The seal in question is clamped in there fairly snug. I have never seen one leak unless it was put in wrong. I would suggest a pressure check, at idle, on the low band apply port. There is a small steel flap valve that keeps the front pump from pushing oil into the rear pump pressure side and vice versa. If that is broken, it could also be a cause.... A leaking seal causes it to slip when you make a right turn, not hop out of gear while sitting still. As I mentioned, the slipping condition may have gone long enough to cause, or aggravate, other problems. From Inliners International I don't recall a baffle in the sump. The only one I ever worked on with similar problems had a crack in the oil pickup tube near to where it attached. Apparently when cornering the oil would pull to one side enough to expose the crack allowing the pump to pull air instead of oil letting the band or clutch pack disengage. However, that transmission did not temporarily disengage at stops.
The wagon '(62) came with a bad Powerglide-- I never liked 2 speeds anyway-- After messing around with that damn thing for a whole summer with no results, I swapped it out for a TH350. I had to change the flywheel and nosecone on the starter, and replace the bottom pully with a harmonic balancer/ pulley. ( they balanced pre '64's on the flywheel) The linkage mod was a piece 'o' cake. That was 8 yrs. ago and she's still hangin' tough- You'll probably end up doing the same someday, if you keep the car...
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