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Intake manifold heat

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Ice man, Nov 2, 2009.

  1. Ice man
    Joined: Mar 12, 2008
    Posts: 984

    Ice man

    OK I'm running a 2.5 AMC 4 banger in my 29 Pk Up. I am not running the FI and made a manifold that mounts a carb and works OK. (also has a reworked dizzy with S/S and not computer). Problem is NO manifold heat. Will be moving to the states SOON (LOL smooth roads, No more 10 MPH ) and will need some heat. So a friend dropped off a OEM intake and it has 2 heat sorces, Water and a 12 volt heat sink.
    Should I use both?
    Is a limiter necessary on the heater so it does not over heat and burn out?
    Does it stay in the circuit all the time?
    Is it used just for fast warm up?
    Should I just use the water heat?
    I'm sure some of you can help out and old time guy that is not as aquainted with this newer stuff.
    Thanks, the Iceman
  2. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    from Phoenix AZ

    Just use the water heat, the small Ford 6s did it that way for years.
  3. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020


    I always woundered about that. By the time the water is hot you don't need the heat anymore. My Cummins has a 12 volt manifold heater that is only on for a short time after starting. Instead of glow plugs. Maybe there is a timer or something attached to your electric heater. Give it 12 volts off the car and ceck it out.
  4. Ice man
    Joined: Mar 12, 2008
    Posts: 984

    Ice man

    Thanks John, I just need a 2nd openion. Iceman

  5. farna
    Joined: Jul 8, 2005
    Posts: 1,229


    The electric heater was only used until the engine warmed up. It was computer controlled, and I'm pretty sure the computer cut it off after the temp sensor said the engine had reached a certain temp... no clue as to what that temp would be. You could put it on a toggle switch and just use it until the engine warmed up (safer on a 3 minute timer), but it will be fine without it. Will be a little cold natured, but no more than a 60s-70s carbed vehicle. The electric heater came out in 1982 on the AMC six, was used on all subsequent carbed models.
  6. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 4,018

    from central NY

    Where are you moving to?? I run my non heated (blocked the manifold heat riser years ago) engine in weather in the 30's and humidity is pretty high. Never encountered a problem. If you are going to be encountering below freezing temps for long periods it might be an issue. Seen a couple of fellows tie wrap their heater hoses together then hose clamp them to the intake manifold. Also seen a coil of copper tubing wrapped around the intake and connected to the heater hoses.
  7. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,576


    Unless you have an external heat source to keep the water warm then you have no heat to assist with engine warm up. If you are moving into a cool/cold climate consider a block heater, they have capacity to keep the entire engine warm, and you may also consider a hollow spacer under the carb, plumbed to the cooling system, to further assist in initially warming the carb.

    The factory set-ups, with water under the carb, are designed to moderate carb temp in extended running periods. Usually found in heavy duty truck applications.
    Exhaust heat was the designers choice to quickly heat the intake and assist with warm up.

  8. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 8,713


    I run a 250 chev. with a 4bbl and headers, never needed heat. maybe the headers were close enough to do the job. Where are you moving to?

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